Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I was given a RVCC 660-9 that was left in the building. The company that put it there just took the lock, labels, and coin and bill acceptors out and left the machine. Can you guys tell me what ones i would need to replace them? Also is it possible to add the credit card acceptor to this? And Hello im Fud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendors Tech Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I believe all the 660s had the Merlin IV control board, which is an MDB board, so any combination of MDB validator and changer should work. I can send you links to purchase what you need online if you don't have any other resource. Look around for a harness that is coming off the bottom right on the control board that ends in a 6 pin (two rows of 3) female connector with just 5 wires going to it. That is what your bill validator and coin mech will plug into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Pretty good deal for free if it cools. All you have to do is check what kind of board it is but it's probably a merlin 4 as vendors tech said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Email me at rbepic4gatgmaildotcom and I can send you the parts you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacanteen Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 RVCC-660 is a Coke product so it will be the G-Series. Any MDB changer , bill, and card will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Thanks guys im heading over there now i will snap a pic or two of the inside to make sure anything i dont know about isnt missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Here is some more pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lacanteen Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 The only potential issue is the red button board is older and can cause some DEX/telemetry issues. Otherwise nice G-Series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendors Tech Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Yep, GIII control board instead of Merlin IV. Should still be MDB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Vend Tech how much would you charge for the coin and bill acceptors shipped to 47303? And what would a credit card set up cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 1 hour ago, lacanteen said: The only potential issue is the red button board is older and can cause some DEX/telemetry issues. Otherwise nice G-Series. IS that something i should only worry about if it messes up or should i go ahead and replace it now while im messing with the other stuff? What board would i replace it with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 If you won't be doing credit cards, I wouldn't worry about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Ok well i just plugged this machine in for first time. I was told it worked. I see no power at all. Is there some switch or something i need to do to get it to power up? Thanks for the help this is my first vending machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 There are no power switches in Royal machines but down to the left of the condenser is a power block. You'll see that the power cord comes in to that block and then there is a 2 prong plug like a lamp uses that plugs into the power block and gives power to the door and electronics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Ok i looked down there that plug was plugged in but the power supply down there was unplugged. Plugged that in and i have power and everything appears to be working im gonna let it run a for a bit to make sure its cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Ok so it is not getting colder but getting hotter for some reason. The lcd reads Ice Cold Soda then the temp. It started at 62 and is up to 80 now. Im trying to figure out how to control the settings. The red button doesnt seem to be doing anything. Its also saying error then some numbers but i dont see those numbers anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 Error 67121-7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I made a mistake down there. The two prong cord is to the cooling unit and the logic board power is from the line filter next to the power block. To safely remove power from the logic board you pull one wire off the line filter as you found. Error is actually the first entry in the programming of the machine. The digits are the eprom version and your board is stuck there so you probably have a bad board. That is also why it's not cooling though there could be a number of other reasons. You do have to have the door closed for about 3 minutes for the compressor to start and remain running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 I left it closed for about an hour it went from 62 to 80 degrees. I talked to a guy who worked in the office where the machine was he even said it worked fine when it was in there. So im totally confused. I wonder if the vendor did something to it since they pulled everything from it. What board would i need to replace it if thats the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 I can send you a replacement board, coin mech and validator if you'd like. You should have all of them to really test it out. Because it's a GIII machine you should hear the chain run 3 or 4 times everytime you close the door. If you always have the static message on your display then you probably don't have the chain running either when you first close the door. Email me at rbepic4gatgmaildotcom . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendors Tech Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Here is the board you need (GIII EVS), validator, changer, harness, and we an discuss credit card options over the phone if you want to go that route. Control Board: http://stores.vendorstech.com/royal-giii-evs-programming-control-board/ Bill Validator: http://stores.vendorstech.com/mei-vn-2512-bill-validator-2008-5-ready/ Coin Mech: http://stores.vendorstech.com/mei-trc-6512-coin-changer/ MDB Y Harness: http://stores.vendorstech.com/mei-mdb-y-harness/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 It's one thing when a machine was cooling YESTERDAY, but it's a whole different animal when the machine was cooling months or years ago. Don't ask me about the science behind it, but apparently cooling decks leak FASTER (if they have a leak) when they sit around. There are so many things that could be going on but the most likely scenario is that you are low on refrigerant and the compressor is running and running and building up heat but not actually cooling anything. You need to have the deck repaired. While the deck is out, you should also make sure that the evaporator fan runs (it's in the back of the machine behind the deck when you pull it out). After you have removed the deck, make sure the power is on to the rest of the machine and make sure the evaporator fan is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fud Posted February 8, 2017 Author Share Posted February 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, AngryChris said: It's one thing when a machine was cooling YESTERDAY, but it's a whole different animal when the machine was cooling months or years ago. Don't ask me about the science behind it, but apparently cooling decks leak FASTER (if they have a leak) when they sit around. There are so many things that could be going on but the most likely scenario is that you are low on refrigerant and the compressor is running and running and building up heat but not actually cooling anything. You need to have the deck repaired. While the deck is out, you should also make sure that the evaporator fan runs (it's in the back of the machine behind the deck when you pull it out). After you have removed the deck, make sure the power is on to the rest of the machine and make sure the evaporator fan is running. It was running less than a month ago. It was in a FOP call center. They moved locations and this was in their break room. Some of them still come into my store and today i asked one of the guys if it worked up till the last day and he said it did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 Just now, Fud said: It was running less than a month ago. It was in a FOP call center. They moved locations and this was in their break room. Some of them still come into my store and today i asked one of the guys if it worked up till the last day and he said it did. Sure, but if it was low on refrigerant at that moment, then it has only gotten worse since then. You could also have a bad condenser fan or clogged condenser. From what you describe, it sounds most likely that you are low on refrigerant. If you don't believe me (which is fine, I am not offended at all) then find someone who does refrigeration and have them check it out. It's not hard to diagnose a few things.. namely, make sure COOL air is coming into the main cabinet, make sure HOT air is coming out of the back of the machine with a pretty decent air flow (it should feel like there's a fan in there pushing the air out). And you can try to grab the refrigeration lines inside the machine to see if they get cold. If they do not get cold or you find just a block of ice forming on one side by itself, then you're low on refrigerant. When decks get low on refrigerant BUT the cabinet is already cold, it doesn't take much effort for the refrigeration deck to maintain the cold temperature. Once it's shut off, the pressure (don't ask me how) can allow even more refrigerant to leak out at a faster rate than when the machine was running. Since the cabinet would be warm after one month, it's very possible that the deck simply cannot bring it back DOWN to temperature. Refrigeration problems happen all the time. 75% of the time, it's low on refrigerant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 There could also be a restriction in the line somewhere, and you can often find out where (if it IS a restriction) by seeing where the frost/ice stops moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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