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Where to find a bar that holds a Northern 80 and 60 on same stand?


MrGranger

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Is there a double bar (bracket) that will hold a Northern 80 and Northern 60 on the same stand or do I need a triple? Thanks.

Basically I'd like to get a stand that could hold 1 or 2 Northwestern 60s plus 1 Northwestern 80 on a single pipe stand. The locations I've approached aren't keen on racks just yet, so a pipe stand is what I've got to work with so far. And with my double brackets I'm limited to one 80 or two 60s, but not both.

Thanks.

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Basically I'd like to get a stand that could hold 1 or 2 Northwestern 60s plus 1 Northwestern 80 on a single pipe stand. The locations I've approached aren't keen on racks just yet, so a pipe stand is what I've got to work with so far. And with my double brackets I'm limited to one 80 or two 60s, but not both.

Thanks.

you can use a 1x8 to mount the machines on, after you determine the right length find the center and mount the flange, you will need to use carriage bolts so you can easily countersink them, then mount the nw80 in the middle and the 60's on both sides. I have several of these out and it works fine.

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That would work, but wouldn't be allowed at the locations that I just got. Problem is that these are in SoCal areas where they want everything to match. Near Orange Co. where the buildings, streets, trees all match. So far I have to come with machines that will fit in the decor of the places. They aren't high class places either, pretty run-of-the-mill.

I'd love to get a rack in or a j-stand, but a single pipe is all that I've gotten the okay for; chrome or black. Maybe they'll warm up to me later and allow the rack. It's a bit limiting.

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Is there a double bar (bracket) that will hold a Northern 80 and Northern 60 on the same stand or do I need a triple? Thanks.

gallery_105_7_13889.jpg

I have this on a regular pipe stand. It's a 1x4, cut to 24" and painted black.

gallery_105_7_96297.jpg

Here's another option. Created a J-Stand from a regular pipe stand and added some joints and more pipes. I also tried this with a Super80 on top instead of the two Super60s. Looks good and is sturdy.

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I went to the lumber yard today and spent $28 for the wood ,spray paint and hardware to mount these to 13 stands.I saved at least $100.I had to buy the carriage bolts and nuts galvanized or it would have been cheaper yet.I have everything ready to drill, spray paint and mount but my wife has a meeting and I had to come home to watch the kids.

@will.vend:any reason you use flat and not lets say glossy paint?It seems that besides the sides the only other part visible is the 1 inch in between the two machines.I made these 15 inches long.

have you ever had any type of issue with this type of bracket?

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I was asking since I have a stand that needs painting,I could use the same type of spray paint for all my needs.

I paint all my stand/racks flat black when they need painting, I will even paint the chrome ones when they start getting dull, I think it makes them look more sturdy

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Basically I'd like to get a stand that could hold 1 or 2 Northwestern 60s plus 1 Northwestern 80 on a single pipe stand. The locations I've approached aren't keen on racks just yet, so a pipe stand is what I've got to work with so far. And with my double brackets I'm limited to one 80 or two 60s, but not both.

Thanks.

I think I know exactly what you are asking for. That animal does exist, but unfortunately no one sells them. You can, however, build them. Start with a regular single pipe stand. You will then need an extra flange (from LYPC), a double bracket (from LYPC) and one 4 inch threaded pipe (from Lowes). It also best to have the original pole cut down to about 22 inches (Ace Hardware will cut and rethread for two dollars) Using a hole saw, drill a hole into the center of the double bracket so that the two poles can be twisted into the bottom flange. I have built about 15 of these and they are great space savers or great when an owner is paranoid about taking up too much room. I like the flexibility for the top machine - NW80, 2-col Sticker or even a Shootin Hoops.

post-232-0-58643400-1298425061_thumb.jpg

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I think I know exactly what you are asking for. That animal does exist, but unfortunately no one sells them. You can, however, build them. Start with a regular single pipe stand. You will then need an extra flange (from LYPC), a double bracket (from LYPC) and one 4 inch threaded pipe (from Lowes). It also best to have the original pole cut down to about 22 inches (Ace Hardware will cut and rethread for two dollars) Using a hole saw, drill a hole into the center of the double bracket so that the two poles can be twisted into the bottom flange. I have built about 15 of these and they are great space savers or great when an owner is paranoid about taking up too much room. I like the flexibility for the top machine - NW80, 2-col Sticker or even a Shootin Hoops.

Very cool. Lots of great ideas. I may try a couple, take pictures and then let the sites pick what they want. Thanks a bunch.

Shawn

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I use a 2x6 board and paint with glossy spray paint.

Got the idea of using wood from dperry.

The glossy doesn't really stand out much more than the flat IMO and the LYPC stands are closer to a gloss paint than a flat paint out of the box anyway -- so you get a better match.

But, I really don't think going with flat or glossy is a big deal.

BTW, I've had these wood brackets in some rough locations and have not had any problems.

I don't even use carriage bolts.

I just screw the machine bases directly onto the board with coarse-threaded drywall screws from lowes.

This is why I went with a 2x6 instead of the 1x that others here are using.

The 2x gave me more wood to drill into.

Not much difference in price from 1x to 2x.

And using screws is faster/cheaper than using the bolts.

I've yet to have one come loose.

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I already went ahead and had my 1x6 cut, drilled and painted by the time you posted sherlock.the 2x may have been better and cheaper but it was too late.I still saved a lot of money doing it this way,and it seems that it will be sturdy enough to put in the wildest location.I will post pictures later,I am going to give them a second coat of paint first.

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I already went ahead and had my 1x6 cut, drilled and painted by the time you posted sherlock.the 2x may have been better and cheaper but it was too late.I still saved a lot of money doing it this way,and it seems that it will be sturdy enough to put in the wildest location.I will post pictures later,I am going to give them a second coat of paint first.

Oh well...you can always use a 2x on your next build.

No doubt you saved a bundle anyway.

Looking forward to the pics.

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I have a preliminary picture I wanted to post but I have no idea what the url address is or how to go about posting a pic short of emailing it to some one.any ideas?

I think I got it.it seems if I quote someone the attach file option comes up or I missed it the first time. edit:no picture came up

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Antonio, I ran in to this. All the pictures in your old posts are bogging it down. You have 2 solutions.

1) Delete your old pics and then delete your cookies.

2) Post the pic in your gallery and then create a link to it in the post.

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I already went ahead and had my 1x6 cut, drilled and painted by the time you posted sherlock.the 2x may have been better and cheaper but it was too late.I still saved a lot of money doing it this way,and it seems that it will be sturdy enough to put in the wildest location.I will post pictures later,I am going to give them a second coat of paint first.

using a 2x is not necessary if your concerned about strength, I have used 1x boards on several triples with no problem, I tried a 2x once and thought it looked homemade, the 2x stuck out like a sore thumb. but this is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth

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using a 2x is not necessary if your concerned about strength, I have used 1x boards on several triples with no problem, I tried a 2x once and thought it looked homemade, the 2x stuck out like a sore thumb. but this is just my opinion so take it for what it's worth

The 2x is not for strength in my set-up.

Since I'm using screws, the 2x is needed because a 1x is not thick enough for coarse-threaded screws.

Using the 2x and coarse-threaded screws saves money.

You don't have the cost of carriage bolts and a 1x doesn't cost much more than a 2x.

Also saves time because you don't have to pre-drill holes for your bolts.

You just screw the bases right onto the board.

Regarding appearances, the 2x is 3/4" thicker than a 1x in today's true lumber measurements.

IMO, not enough of a difference to justify my spending more time/money using carriage bolts and a 1x.

Like will.vend states -- it's all opinion.

No right or wrong way. Just depends on what you prefer.

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thanks for the ideas guys.it did take me 2 hours to make these with the second coat of paint I applied this morning.I wasn`t well organized or it would have been less.that extra $100 bucks is still in my pocket,and will go towards buying 1.43 NW super 60s.

@mrGranger:did you make your bracket?you couldn`t have started this topic at a better time for me.I was getting ready to order some from sams.

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Glad it was timely. I've gotten a lot of ideas, but no time yet to try anything. I wish I had because I'm locating a machine tonight and would love to bring them a new 3x head instead of the single I have ready. But time isn't on my side this time.

What kind of wood are you using? Anything in particular?

I think I know exactly what you are asking for. That animal does exist, but unfortunately no one sells them. You can, however, build them. Start with a regular single pipe stand. You will then need an extra flange (from LYPC), a double bracket (from LYPC) and one 4 inch threaded pipe (from Lowes). It also best to have the original pole cut down to about 22 inches (Ace Hardware will cut and rethread for two dollars) Using a hole saw, drill a hole into the center of the double bracket so that the two poles can be twisted into the bottom flange. I have built about 15 of these and they are great space savers or great when an owner is paranoid about taking up too much room. I like the flexibility for the top machine - NW80, 2-col Sticker or even a Shootin Hoops.

Jax - For this, couldn't you just attach the 2" to the flange on top and move that bracket down? That would save the cost of the extra flange. Any reason it needs to be on a bracket on top?

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