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orsd

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orsd last won the day on March 19

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  1. Standing up, always. If you use a pallet Jack to move soda machines bring along 2 pieces of 4x4 lumber cut to 32-36” long. Tip the machine to 1 side with a helper just enough to slide the 4x4 under the edge. Repeat on the other side so that it’s sitting on 4x4s. Then you can slide the pallet jack under the machine from the front. Always use ratchet straps to secure your load. I prefer using straps that have the ratchet handle to crank it down, not just the cheap type that you pull on. At least 1000 lbs working load limit (not breaking strength), and at least 1.5 in wide strapping (preferable 2 in) Always use at least 2 straps over the top at the very minimum, preferably a third wrapped around it, and use a piece or cardboard where the strap touches the machine to protect the strap and the paint. Also, always stop after a few miles to check and tighten. Those drop deck trailers do ride very rough. And make sure to cinch things down tight.
  2. Vehicle: can be rental or owned. Renting is probably better for those just starting out. Good choices, from best to good: box truck with rail style lift gate, pickup and lift bed trailer, box truck with tuck under style lift gate, pickup with Tommy lift lift gate. Tools: Dutro dolly, preferably with a top hook strap. Pallet jack, both short and narrow and full size. Piano dollies for tight doorways. If I could only have 1 the Dutro would be my pick, followed by a short and narrow pallet jack. Don’t use regular appliance dollies, they suck and you will drop a machine and or hurt someone.
  3. The RS232 ports on the Rowe are for connecting a printer to print out sales reports. They are not setup to work with a converter, and almost certainly will not work with one.
  4. Yup. Abloy and Medeco are the best for security. Even the LSI Cobra 7 are a small step above because they don’t fit the cheap tubular lock picks due to the shape of the center post, and are a bit hard to tension for hand picking. Still pickable by experienced hands but will deter a casual. And honestly if a Medeco or Abloy and a couple hockey puck locks isn’t enough to stop theft it’s time to pull the equipment from that location or switch to card only before your equipment gets Swiss cheesed by a guy with a sawzall.
  5. There’s a jumper harness for Mars 110v VN series validators to make them always enabled.
  6. Remember that the newest E series machines are pushing 15 years old now and the oldest are over 30. The VMaxes are only slightly newer. Vending machines generally have phenomenal service lives.
  7. It was built to do either, with the right parts kit but the parts to make it vend glass were never very common and haven’t been made in a long long time. Not that it’s a good idea to vend glass in the first place from one of the these. The bottle opener was standard in pretty much all Dixie Narcos up until the 90s, even if the machine was never setup to vend glass from the factory.
  8. Oak Vista cab. Made anywhere from probably the 60s or so (not super sure) to the 2010s. Glass panels instead of plexiglas would indicate earlier production, as would 5 or 10 cent mechs, but parts can and do get swapped all the time so not a very reliable indicator. Best bet for parts would be eBay. The center rod can be replaced with 1/4-20 threaded rod cut to length from a hardware store, if you don’t care about originality. As for value unfortunately not worth a whole lot, 20-60 bucks is fair but you could probably get 70-80 for it in an antiques store storefront. Just way too common, and lots of vendors are selling off equipment.
  9. No, they rely on drop sensors to work. Just get a new sensor, they are prone to failure, used ones are too much of a crapshoot.
  10. If you want to swap it any MDB coin mech will work. An MEI CF7512 has great change capacity and is rock solid reliable. If you don’t need a ton of change capacity get a Coinco 9302GX. Also rock solid mechs.
  11. Yes. The parts I listed are in addition to the ones you originally listed.
  12. Need a main door harness, select switch harness, display harness, MDB harness, transformer, and display as well. Probably some other parts I’m forgetting.
  13. I’ve done it before a couple times. You need every single harness except the lighting harness. Not worth it if you have to buy harnesses. Only reason it was worth it to me is because I had multi price parts machines and clean, nice single price 501Es. One 600E that was absolutely destroyed (picked up a machine at auction for cheap that spent its life outdoors on a beach and rusted out, plus major sun damage and someone used a crowbar to attempt to break into) and 501E that took a swan dive off a forklift. Pull all the harnesses and boards out of the parts machine and transfer them over to the single price machine.
  14. I think you are looking for product pushers. They snap on the end of the spiral to either keep product in or help push it off the shelf. https://www.vesolutions.co/PRODUCT-PUSHER-UNIVERSAL-BLACK
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