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About Technivend

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  • Birthday 10/01/1961

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  1. I don't see how these could be related but I've learned never to say never. After you repaired the harness did you toggle the interlock switch prior to testing? This is the only way to reset and scan the motors. When you locked up the machine to go get the replacement changer, if the power was on, this would have been the toggle the machine needed. Then when you swapped the mech....Maybe the coin mech payout got over worked paying out change from the bad connections? Lotta maybes in there....lol...But I vote coincidence.
  2. Glad it helped and worked out for you 👍
  3. As the warm weather finds its way to Boston we are becoming inundated with warm refrigerated machines. A lot of the time the start of the problem is poor maintenance. A warning to all, take some time to clean your machines. It will save you lots of time and aggravation. https://technivend.com/2017/04/11/refrigerated-vending-machine-maintenance-your-vending-machine-needs-love-too/
  4. Not sure I follow. The way you have the Slim Jim is the way this design was supposed to be filled (across the spiral). Tucking of the bags like the Rold Gold is not (tucked through the spiral).
  5. AP went to the angled tray end as no one was tucking their product and this was to eliminate hangups. In theory you shouldn't have to tuck the product with that design.
  6. An SAE nut driver set with a hollow shaft is a must. Wouldn't be caught without it.
  7. If you look at your picture, when you pull on the screw rod the threads move. The e-clip acts like the head of a bolt. Not allowing that movement. This allows the screw rod to pull the door closed. With out the clip the rod screws in to the nut but doesn't really pull the door properly.
  8. Unplug everything off the board except the power and then power it back up. See if it still happens if it does, start with the board if not it sounds like you have a connection misaligned.
  9. E clip inside the t-handle is broken and/or missing. Should be easy fix. Remove clip that you can see, slide assembly out from the front. You'll see a groove that needs a clip. You can almost see it in the picture. It is where the screw portion gets thiick. It's hidden by the spring in the pic. Just take the one you remove to a hardware store and match it up.
  10. What is that square shape under the button assembly? If you remove the coin mech is there a removable plate?
  11. It is an ac motor and cannot be wired backwards. It can be installed with the airflow wrong though. Simple test is to take a bill and put it on the front of the evaporator fine and see if it is sucked into the fins. If so you have the proper airflow
  12. Leave the temp high. Secure the door. The you can slowly adjust temp colder later if need be. But, you really should test the temp probe in ice water. This is why I never got to the bottom of the one I saw doing this. Once it's quite nobody wants to figure out the problem. Just happy with a solution
  13. Wow did this escalate quickly. First, did you raise the temperature setpoint to 42 and check if the temp probe is reading the correct temp? The temperatures you are reading are meaningless (while not crazy) until you confirm it is reading proper temps. A bad temp probe won't give you bad temp cycles just bad temperature in the cabinet. Ie: temp reads 32 but really 22, temp reads 42 but really 32. So the cycle shouldn't change. To try to answer some of your questions. The setpoint is the temp that the compressor turns on. It will run to cool approximately 4 degrees cooler then the setpoint. The fact that it reaches 32 is not alarming as the temp is read in the coldest part of the cabinet and that once the compressor shuts off it goes into a defrost type cycle. It is a perfect temp for ultimate cold. In reality probably pushing to many limits though. Again, raise the temp to 42 and see what happens. Check the temp probe and level. Once you do this we can start to diagnose.
  14. I've seen this once before. Try turning the temp up to something like 42 degrees and making sure the machine is level and draining. It's an odd issue and I never got 100% confirmation on what/why it was happening as once the noise stopped the customer didn't want to "touch anything". 42 degrees is usually satisfactory to the customer. If this fixes your problem I would suggest testing the temp probe by submerging it in a cup of ice water. It should stabilize quickly at 32 degrees and not jump around. What I found is that after a day or so running and cycling the machine would make a noise like you describe. When the compressor stops (or if you open the door) and the cabinet starts to warm up the noise will go away. Once the cabinet gets cold the noise starts up again. It is definitely something to do with that fan but it isn't the fan itself. I think it is due to the fact that the fan is a newer design for the machine (higher efficiency) and it pulls the air so hard that it is actually pulling ice off of the evaporator or base of the cabinet.
  15. Does the turret try to move and try to home? I'm pretty sure they used the magnetic home sensor on the 432 like on the 431. So I would look at the edge of the turret by the gear and there should be a magnet somewhere along the perimeter. If you find the magnet then check the magnetic switch.