Technivend

If it is an actual bill jam check the stacker. If the 3rd bill is going into escrow, what is the highest price set in the machine?

la, sorry to hear about your wife 😟. Glad to hear your in the road to recovery, literally ☺️. The EB Mustang is a super fun car and even though it doesn't have the Coyote growl is a performer. I just grabbed on myself a couple of months ago. This is what I do with mine.

Does the turret try to move and try to home? I'm pretty sure they used the magnetic home sensor on the 432 like on the 431. So I would look at the edge of the turret by the gear and there should be a magnet somewhere along the perimeter. If you find the magnet then check the magnetic switch.

Parts for this vintage machine are slowly becoming harder to get. Technology has made some major components obsolete.

https://www.facebook.com/video/embed?video_id=435673849843862

what does the display actually say?

Have you thought of putting it online via PDF?

Interesting idea, but how do you access the catalog?

Czero1 is right. A 501 is only three cans deep not four. When you first fill the column just don't push the cans in the auger all the way back. As the machine continues to vend it should only load the rotor three deep. What you need to check is....When the column has three or four layers of cans in it that the rear spacer is set correctly. You want about a thumb width between the can and the front wall of the machine.Check the cams on the motors. There should be three valleys on the single columns and six on the double columns.

Glad your all set. And good to hear about the Royal tech. They are usually very good and I was surprised by your experience. But we are only human and have bad days, and sometimes worse moments!

I probably is just a "simple switch" that can be bypassed. But keep an eye on the proper operation of the machine. That switch could be to reset the control board, health control, fans, etc. It would be best if you knew what the switch did before bypassing it.

I can't find a second switch in the schematic. So I don't know what it is for. the above post should say wouldn't jump it not WOULD.

I took a look at a 320 today and the only interlock switch I saw is activated by the interior cold door. It is located at the bottom right hand corner of the glass. I didn't see any other switch in that area. This switch would be to reset the health control and start the refer circuit so I would bypass it.

Are you referring to the switch in the tower? They are cheap enough to replace. Bypassing it may open up a lot of issues in the machine with programming and resetting the controller. If you are looking at jumping it out to test the switch, you usually remove the switch and jump the CO and N/O lugs on the switch.

-Splurge and use frothy cappucino topping instead of a non diary creamer -make sure you get cups designed to work in your machine - the 5 gallon jug will not give you a lot of water to work with. If you are doing 12oz cups you are looking at ~55-60 cups before the 5 gallon jug needs to be changed. -#6 could be either the FV or Tea. You need to know which it is set for as they use different motors.

Sounds like you may have a broken wire or bad connector somewhere. With the door open the door harness is flexed straight, when it is closed it is bent and may be stressing a connector or wire. If it works with the door open and the column full we should be able to eliminate the motor assembly. Unless it is the last column at which point you may have something binding inside but this is highly unlikely. What I would do first is check all the connections in the machine at the bottom of the door and make sure they are tight and you don't have any old dried out syrup all over them. If you can I would disconnect and reconnect all the connectors to be sure they are tight. After that you can try flexing the harness at the door pivot to see if you can either make it work with the door closed of not work with the door open. This would put your problem in the harness. Of course if you have a meter and know how to use it you could check all you wires that way, but since it works with the door open you need to flex the harness while testing each wire. Chasing a bad wire is a very time consuming job and will test you patience. Resolve yourself that this is going to be a timely repair. If you find it quickly you did good. But shortcuts will only confuse the issue.

As long as the machine has never been modified and it uses the manual thermostat, I would guess the same. You can see if the manual one is used by turning it off or disconnecting it.

Looking at this on a bigger monitor, it does look more like a Royal. But from what I can see it may be the GIII machine since there are no motors showing on the front (uses a chain drive). If it is a GIII, these were know to be difficult to vend product that was not spec'd by Coke (ie: Pepsi). Here is the package chart for Royal http://www.royalvendors.com/html/pvsTOC.html

Looks like a Dixie 660 Coke machine (although that vintage Dixie and Royal look very similar). You are probably missing the tag on the side (left hand side) that tells us the exact model number. You can also check down at the compressor for a tag that may help. The inner door should have some information on it that will tell you more.

Unplug the machine and plug the compressor directly into an outlet. You won't freeze drinks doing it this way. Let it run for at least 15 minutes. If you want, take a picture of the frost lines and email it to me and I'll give you my 2 cents.....

Unfortunately, this type of equipment we never dealt with. They are specialized and were never really popular up here.

Surprised to hear that about Royal. They are usually very helpful. On to your question....From what you are saying you are correct in questioning of your compressor is good or not. Couple of things though. 1) The Royal Milk Machine used to use a manual thermostat and not the electronic one. If you are playing around with those settings it won't change a thing. Try adjusting the manual thermostat colder. 2)When the compressor turns off. does the compressor fan stay running? If yes, the compressor is going out on overload. If no, then the thermostat is shutting off the compressor assembly. (the fan and compressor are hooked up in a parallel circuit) 3) A refer system should pull well below freezing while running. A 32 degree temp is not cold enough to keep your product cold. The best way to test it is this. Plug the compressor into an outlet using an extension cord. Let it run for at least 15 minute. Look at the evaporator, it should be frosty all they way across. If it is frosty on the left only (Dixie is on the right) by the small copper tube going into the evaporator your unit is low on gas. Now, if you are using this for soda only and nothing perishable you should try to eliminate the health control as it will be more trouble then it is worth. Soda can be run at 45 degrees but that won;t keep the health control happy. I'll have to dig and see if I have a manual or notes to see if this is possible.

I take it you didn't have any luck with Vendo??

I was going through some old articles I had on my computer and I came across a link to this article from 1995..... http://web.archive.org/web/20000619041329/www.bosbbb.org/lit/0182.htm So today I thought I would check on what the BBB has to say about the industry today.... http://www.newyork.bbb.org/SitePage.aspx?site=24&id=1face262-86c5-4fd3-81e0-3871b77bc2cc This article holds true today, even though it was written 15 yrs ago. It will probably be true as long as the industry exists. Print it out and put it on your wall. Read it when something sounds to good to be true. Then put your money back in your pocket and keep the smile on your face. You are now in the know..................

I think there were 2 versions of this board (but then again, maybe not). It should be plug and play and very straight forward. Just double check your board and see if you can get a picture of the other board to be sure the harnessing looks the same.