APerna1985 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hi, I recently got given 2 vending machines from a business that was closing down They called the owners to remove the machines and all he did was come and take the coin mechs and dollar validators out of them and leave the machines. So I got the machines for the price of having a mover come pick them up.My intention is to keep the Coke machine and use it in my game room, and get the Snack machine 100% operational and reliable so I could hopefully sell it to someone who can use it. Please bear with me I am new to this so I may not explain things 100% Right. But I do have an electrical background, used to restore cars, and I fixed my own Pinball machine and Jukebox. The Coke machine is a DIxie Narco 276E. I plugged in the Coke machine with the door open and it had multiple codes scrolling across the display 1405,0002,0007,COLJ, SELS, BUAL, CASH, 0133, and Vend Door because it was open. I went through the test menu and tested each can slot and all but #1 moved and vended. Sometimes slot 5 would only move a little then stop, but after a few tries it would spin and vend. I noticed the motor was missing from slot number one. I found it inside the machine and took it out how do I test it to see whats wrong? Also Id like to set it to vend for free, do I need a coin mech installed for that? I was hoping to block off the opening and just have it set for free dispensing, I found a post online that told me how to move 2 pins on a relay to make it set for free, but I cant find the relay. Also it says Intellivend 2000 on the machine is that some kind of upgrade? The snack machine is a FSI 3132 and its also missing the coin mech. When I plug it in I get dashes across the display, then periodically it will flash 6709 and then 3-04. What do they mean? The machine wont do anything at all I cant even get it into service mode to change it to free play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 FIrstly, I'll start with the most basic things... Intellivend, to my knowledge, was something that was only put on coke-branded machines and I don't think it really means anything at all to be honest with you. Coke has some odd features in their machines. Sometimes programming is different, sometimes multiple selections are programmed to run together. It gets weird at times. Basically, intellivend means nothing. Now... as for motors only turning part way and stopping.. that's normal DEPENDING on the cam settings. On a 276E, you can vend 1-deep, 2-deep, or 3-deep. When you look at the notches on the cam (the plastic part in front of the motor... you have to remove the motor cover to see these) you can count the notches to see how many vends it is supposed to make before it completes the cycle. 2 notches means 2 vends. 3 notches means 3 vends, etc.. So.. if you test a selection and it only turns part way when the arm of the switch sits in a notch, then you are vending properly. If the arm on the switch stops at a point that is NOT in the notch, then you have a coasting motor/bad brake. Mind you, some switches on some machines have 2 arms instead of 1. By the way.. you typically can only test vend a selection (I think) if there is something in it... because the sold-out switch needs to be tripped for that reason. The simple "trick" is to hold the switch down with your finger when you test vend. As for the errors, I don't know about some of those. You typically don't see numbers on a 276E as the machine usually tells you a code (such as BVAL, which is Bill Validator, COLJ which is Column Jam, SELS may be selection switch but I am not sure). I couldn't tell you what the numbers mean as it may be coke's custom programming. I also couldn't tell you if you can free vend without a coin mech as I have never done that on any machines. Now.. for the snack machine.. I THINK (not 100% sure) that the dashes indicate that there is no coin mech, but I really don't know. I'm just trying to get the responses going. I also can't tell you what those errors mean. There's a good chance that you need a coin mech to make this machine do anything but someone else will chime in and tell you. Oh.. as for the relay on the soda machine, vend relays should only exist on single-price soda machines (the older versions without a digital display). On single-price machines, the "brain" of the machine is the coin mech. The coin mech accepts information from the coins inserted or cash put in the validator. When the value is sufficient based off of the dip switches in the mech itself, the mech sends a signal to the vend relay to open the circuit. Once the circuit is open, it remains open until the selection is pressed, the motor turns that selection until the arm of the switch falls into its next notch, then the circuit is closed and the product is dispensed. Keeping that relay open (I suppose) will allow people to permanently keep purchasing whatever they want as the circuit will never be closed. On a machine with a digital display, most of everything is controlled by the control board (In your case, it should read SIID on the control board). You should be able to get to the programming but you might have to do a master reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 I played with the coke machine a little more and I was able to set all the prices to 0.00 and now it will vend for free. SO I put 3 cans in each stack to try it out. Then I closed the door and it started homing and it dumps all the cans in each stack except for 2 of them. One column says sold out so Im guessing it needs a sold out switch, the third slot from the right works perfectly and all the others just dump during homing. What causes that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 Well, does it do this EVERY time or did it only happen one time for each column? It's possible that the motors just needed to home. If it happens virtually every time to almost every column, then you either have bed motor switches (pretty cheap and easy fix), gummed up brakes (cheap and easy fix), or something else is wrong with the motors. If any cans spilled open when the machine was transported, the syrup could have sprayed everywhere and gotten all over the motor brakes. If this happened, particularly with the motor cover OFF, then you would have a lot of gummed up motor brakes. You need to spray them off with warm slightly soapy water and try to get all of the syrup off if that's the case... It's difficult to explain how the brake looks but they are either above the cams (plastic disks) or below the cams and they are supposed to easily pivot which causes the braking action. Don't mess with them too much with power on. Also, when you say you put 3 cans in each stack, 3 cans normally wouldn't be enough to depress the sold-out paddle. Was the sold-out paddle depressed with all 7 columns that you tested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 I came home today and replaced the florescent bulbs in the front, then I tried loading a bunch of sodas. With the exception of 2 stacks the other 5 just kept homing until they emptied the stack. I took the motor cover off and the plastic brake seems to move easy. What tells the machine when its time to stop homing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 There are three variables here. One, the motor switches. Two, the motor brake. And three, the control board. The machine will generally keep homing until the motors are "home" which means that a switch has "shut off" and told the machine that it's in a correct position (every notch is a "home" position"). If the brakes move without much effort, then the problem is either with your motor switches OR your control board. The cheapest thing to do is to order a couple switches and see if it resolves those specific selections. If that doesn't resolve it, then I would be assuming you have a board issue. One way I test motor switches is by comparing the switches. Good switches have a decent amount of resistance before they click. If they click with almost no effort at all, then they are probably worn out. If you don't hear or feel a click, then they are probably bad. However, this isn't bullet proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brendio Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 You could try swapping a motor switch from a column that works with one that doesn't and see if the problem follows the motor switch and then you know that one is bad. It could also be a wiring problem in the motor switch harness if multiple columns are playing up. Look for loose wires. And swap the switches like I said: if the problem is in the wiring then changing the switches won't change the behaviour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 You may need to simply replace all the motor switches. They are rated at 125v but only 5v runs through them and with age the contacts wear and corrode and the 5v doesn't make it through the switch properly causing it to not be seen by the logic board. If you need new switches you can email me at rbepic4gatgmaildotcom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Ive been doing some research the last couple days and Im starting to understand the machine more... I figured out how to read errors and started chasing things down. Then turned on C3 which allowed me to get into the factory diagnostic mode. What I did was take my Digital Volt Ohm Meter and set it to continuity and then I back probed all the motor swtiches and found that the do open an close, then I did a couple sold out switches and they open and close. So I went back to Diagnostic mode and turned on the mode to test the sold out switches only #1 and #7 work, I tried all the select buttons and they work. So Im wondering if AZvendor is right and the switches have enough corrosion in them to keep the 5v from going through. I tried to take the sold out switches out so I could just polish the terminals but I cant seem to get the switches out of the machine. I think I may order a few motor switches and a few sold out swtiches and see what happens. By the way when the motors are done homing, what position should the rotors be in? I have some that are open like a cup or trough, and I have some that the opening faces the 3 o'clock position. Im just trying to get an indication of whats right or wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Cleaning the switch terminals is not needed. The contacts that fail are inside the switch where you have no access. The sold out switches are on plastic mounts that snap in to the front stack and are helped out by removing the sold out paddle first. Each motor will stop in a variety of positions depending on how many products deep the column is set for on the motor. You can find it in up to three different stopping positions so don't worry about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Im not sure if it helps you but, Its set for regular 12 OZ cans, all the slots are the same width, and the cams are that dark brown color. When its homing I hear 6 clicks from the switch hitting the cams before it stops, but some stop in the knotch in the cam other stop on the round part after... Azvendor could you walk me through getting these sold out switches out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Just replace the switches. They aren't expensive, they last a while, and they are easy to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 You need to remove the paddle spring and then gently push the switch holder retaining clips out of the back side of the stack assembly. Then once all is loose you can remove the switch. Again, you don't really need to remove the sold out switch for any reason. Any switches that don't stop in the notches are bad switches or bad motors - probably switches. If any are bad you should replace them all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 You guys were right removing the spring made it so much easier to pop the switch out I took two switches out clean the contacts and it actually got the switches to come back to life I ordered three of each switch last night just to see how well the machine will work. If everything goes well I'll order the last four. On another note I got an mc5000 coin Mech because I'm tired of seeing errors for the coin Mech what kind of adapter cable do I need to run it. It has 12 pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Don't use an MC5000 mech. They are obsolete and prone to problems with the acceptors and the card connection between the acceptor and the body which leads to blown coin mechs. If your's isn't MDB right now then you should change it to MDB with a harness and mech. Let me know if you need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 Azvendor I actually just got the MC5000 and its reconditioned, I dont think its returnable. My intention is to just leave the machine set to free but leave the mech plugged in just so I dont see any error codes come up. Is it a bad idea to use it in this fashion? My machine has the S2D control board and a 6 pin kind of rectangular shaped plug is that MDB? Also I emailed you about the switches, Im not sure if you got my email. I was looking at this Parts Manual when I bought it and on page 30 it lists harnesses, which is why I bought the MC5000 to start off with., I thought it was the right one. But I dont know if I have an extended or regular MC5000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 I did a bunch of research looks like the machine is already MDB and that the cable I saw hanging. So $65 down the drain could be worse.... But before I buy another dud, is this a good one to use? Coin Mech Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Yes, the 9302-GX is a very good coin mechanism. It will run out quickly if you accept $5's or larger denomination bills, but for basic $1 bill acceptance and the occasional $5 bill, the 9302-GX is a good reliable coin mech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 You can't mix MDB and normal micro-mech equipment so if you decide to put an MDB mech in it then you must also use an MDB validator with proper harness. You say it will be on free vend so I presume you won't use the validator and you won't need the coin mech either. If just on free vend all you need to do is set your prices to zero and start making selections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
APerna1985 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 So the sold out switch I bought and 2 vend switches came and the machine is vending from 4 stacks right now for the first time... Its pretty exciting! So I will be buying all new switches and just redoing the machine properly. So AZVend just send me an email and let me know how much they are... Also even though the machine will be set to free I hate having those 2 odd codes come up when I open the door, and having the big hole in the machine where the validator should be. Thats why I bought the first one, I was just looking for the cheapest thing that will work. Now an odd question all the soda the machine came with has a stamp underneath that is from around 2014. Are they safe to drink or should I just chuck them? I drank a coke and so far I havent gotten sick but who knows if its a good idea... A case or 2 of soda isnt expensive I just hate wasting food or drinks if I dont have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkinthepark Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 2 hours ago, APerna1985 said: So the sold out switch I bought and 2 vend switches came and the machine is vending from 4 stacks right now for the first time... Its pretty exciting! So I will be buying all new switches and just redoing the machine properly. So AZVend just send me an email and let me know how much they are... Also even though the machine will be set to free I hate having those 2 odd codes come up when I open the door, and having the big hole in the machine where the validator should be. Thats why I bought the first one, I was just looking for the cheapest thing that will work. Now an odd question all the soda the machine came with has a stamp underneath that is from around 2014. Are they safe to drink or should I just chuck them? I drank a coke and so far I havent gotten sick but who knows if its a good idea... A case or 2 of soda isnt expensive I just hate wasting food or drinks if I dont have to. We have a lot of expired soda at our house that tastes absolutely fine. (canned soda). I think the bottles go flat sooner than the cans. The soda might taste flat if it is too old...but it certainly won't make you sick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 14, 2017 Share Posted February 14, 2017 Date codes don't make you sick they just go flat and begin to taste like metal. 2 hours ago, APerna1985 said: So the sold out switch I bought and 2 vend switches came and the machine is vending from 4 stacks right now for the first time... Its pretty exciting! So I will be buying all new switches and just redoing the machine properly. So AZVend just send me an email and let me know how much they are... Also even though the machine will be set to free I hate having those 2 odd codes come up when I open the door, and having the big hole in the machine where the validator should be. Thats why I bought the first one, I was just looking for the cheapest thing that will work. Now an odd question all the soda the machine came with has a stamp underneath that is from around 2014. Are they safe to drink or should I just chuck them? I drank a coke and so far I havent gotten sick but who knows if its a good idea... A case or 2 of soda isnt expensive I just hate wasting food or drinks if I dont have to. Expired soda, especially 3 years expired is not enjoyable even if not flat. Just empty the cans and recycle them. You won't get sick but they go flat, leak and begin to taste like metal. I can send you a cover plate for the validator hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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