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Jay Carroll last won the day on August 18 2019

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  1. If you can get it closer to the 500 range I think it’s a good machine. Someone could shake it and get free drinks and someone probably will. Get two metal flanges with two threaded pipes and end caps. Screw the flanges into the two top corners, screw the pipes with the caps to protect the wall. 6 inch pipes would keep someone from pushing the machine to close to the wall and the average idiot pushed the machine from front to back to start the rocking process. They quickly realize it’s not easy. As far as drinks spraying on customers. Put your “fizzy” drinks lower and your not fizzy drinks higher up. They don’t handle the 16.9 oz waters well at all. I just get the 20 oz Deer Park bottles. They work well. This machine is also indoor use only. If it’s close to the outside environment, the glass will get foggy and even wet on the outside. I don’t think a warehouse is to bad though. Personally, I like them. I’m not a professional. I think they’re easy to program, fill and use. Just my two cents.
  2. Is it even necessary? It doesn’t seem to be of any use. I put an end on it and screwed it to the deck. I plugged it in and it popped at the outlet and tripped the breaker. I’m thinking the compressor is frozen or something.
  3. It’s Properly connected to the compressor on the mount with the rubber boots at the bottom. That end looks correct. Can I use a tap screw and connect the other end anywhere on the compressor decking? Maybe near the model plate? Or is there somewhere else that’s better like the machine itself? I can add wire and an end to it if that’s better.
  4. Good Morning All I'm helping a perimeter company Firehouse with their older Dixie Narco Bottle Drop machine. This is a two part question. I found a green and yellow wire connected to the compressor mount and not connected anywhere at the other end. The manual shows this part connected to the deck. Question #1, can I put a connection to the wire end and use a self tapping screw anywhere to the deck? The second part is the overload protector for the compressor makes a click sound about every 15 seconds when the machine is plugged in with an occasional spark. Is it best to order all three of the parts. Overload protector, current start relay with capacitor connections and a start capacitor or get a 3 in 1 I found online? Seems like the later is the direction of the industry. I’m speculating on that from my search. If it doesn’t fix the issue, I’ll keep the part for one of my machines. If I need it I’ll have it. They told me the machine stopped getting cold. Obviously the compressor is the issue. I tried to attach a picture or the wire and model plate but it says only 2.84MB allowed is allowed. Whatever that means. It’s a Model 1600C-A thank You for any help provided.
  5. ThankYou. that’s what the decal looks like in my machine but it’s totally faded.
  6. I’ve done several searches for a diagram or visual communication board for which sizes fit best with each shim for the Glass Front machines. I haven’t had any luck. Anyone ever made one up or have an original? There is one on the inside of one of my machines but it’s faded and I can’t make our most of it. Thanks.
  7. There’s 3 prongs and 2 wires. I’ve tried every combination possible. I did have it out as I thought this was the issue before I gave up last year. Would a bad door switch have anything to do with using the #1 button to back out? The compressor shuts off when I do that too. i really thought the relay would have fixed it.
  8. It’s killing me. I put the relay in and went through the password to “cmpr on” and the compressor fired up. I closed the door and the compressor turned off. I went back in, same steps and again on. I hit #1 or as you know abort and it turns off again. I checked the wires and the door wires went back in, compressor turns on. Pushing the door button or closing the door and a few seconds later it turns back off. Did I miss something?
  9. Parts where ordered today. I added a door switch to the list. I'm sure everyone is holding their breath in anticipation. LOL. And Thank You to everyone that took the time to send a reply. Especially to LaCanteen. Because of him (or her) I know the Main Wiring Harness is ok.
  10. I never thought of that. Lol. My hero. I just plugged a lamp that I’m 100% sure was on and it made the click but no light. Plugged it back into a regular outlet and it lit right up. I’m just going to replace the relay. And thank you for that idea. I feel stupid that I didn’t think of it. 

    1. lacanteen

      lacanteen

      It's all good my friend. Let me know If you need me to send you one. 

    2. Jay Carroll

      Jay Carroll

      Hi. I could really use some advice. I must be missing something or doing something wrong. I changed the relay and the compressor now goes on. But it shuts off when I either close the door or back out using the buttons. I double triple checked the wires and they’re 100% connected properly. It’s frustrating.

      the only thing I thought could be an issue is the two wires for the door button. Two wires but 3 prongs. I’ve tried several combinations. 

  11. OK. I don’t know what the problem was last night with trying to get in. I was doing something wrong but can’t figure it out. Today I got into the pass mode no problem. I did the test for the relay and got a click when I hit button 4 but the compressor wouldn’t actually start. Then went to off and another click. Then a few times back and forth waiting to see if it was a timing thing to start the compressor. Never started. I have plugged the compressor in and it starts up right away. So... it’s the relay? Or is there something else to look at first?
  12. That’s the problem though. It won’t go into the pass mode. It did once but then I bounced out of it halfway through while going through the other levels. I got the abort and up and down mixed up. Then, I couldn’t get back in. It just rotated back and forth when I press the reset. It’s like the reset isn’t resetting. It’s frustrating because the video I watched was literally the same machine with the same issue. Now I can’t even get into the pass mode.
  13. Ok. I posted the problem with this machine about a year ago. Frustration won and I walked away. I decide to put on my big boy pants and get this machine up and running. It was free. It’s in my back yard for soda and beer. it worked for the first year then one day nothing hit cold. I found a YouTube video today with the exact same machine and it got me itching to fix it. but now...... when I press the red mode button. It only goes to the PASS mode once. I tried to get to the setting the YouTube guy went to and it kept going back to the the vending mode. Sold out because there’s nothing in it. I tried over and over and the reset button won’t go into the modes I need to check the different setting such as frdg, cut in, cut out, rely which is one thing I want to check. Cmpr, frg, dsp. I’m suspecting it’s the relay . When it goes into the vend mode after closing the door, it displays ice cold coke free 61F. It’s 62 degrees outside tonight. I want to set the settings to match the YouTube video. So. Am I doing something wrong with the reset button? Is there another problem? Any help.
  14. That was a concern also. I didn't see any evidence of that though. They definitely need a good cleaning.
  15. Have a DN 5591 that I stopped the shaking with a 7” 2x4. I screwed a joist hanger sideways into the top back of the machine and one to the wall. Slid the 2x4 into the joist hangers, a few small screws to secure the 2x4 in place and no more shaking. It doesn’t stop side shaking but that wasn’t an issue.
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