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AngryChris last won the day on September 6

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About AngryChris

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  1. Make sure the brake isn't stuck. When you tap it, it should go right back up immediately. If it feels sticky or won't go up at all, that's a problem that will cause it to keep coasting.
  2. You want a Mars that ends in a 2 (2502, 2512, 2702, 2712,etc.) And a mars mdb harness.
  3. AZVendor usually has a pretty good eye on stuff like that so if he says it's already hooked up with the MDB plug, then it probably is. The two ways to tell if it's an MDB connection is to look at the plug coming out of the validator. It should have 6 pins (don't disconnect/reconnect it with power on). You'll see a plug that connects to the bottom of the rectangular "box" mounted to the bill acceptor. That harness should have one male MDB plug and one female MDB plug coming out of it. One plug is hooked up to an MDB harness that goes straight to the control board and the other plug is hooked up to the coin mechanism. If that's exactly how it looks, then it's MDB. If the coin mechanism and bill acceptor are both hooked up to the board separately, then it's not MDB.
  4. I'm not thinking it does either. I'm under the impression that the original board was never designed to use a door switch. In that case, the homing option wouldn't make a difference. In that case, I think you'll have to choose a different drop sensor option if you really want them to all be homed. The only thing I would be worried about is that, if you choose the option to do a complete rotation each time, in the event that a product fails to vend the first vend (because it's barely stuck), the customer will likely end up getting two products for the price of one. Does it only bother you for aesthetic purposes? As others mentioned, it's probably just stopping once the drop sensor is triggered and not any kind of problem (you didn't mention anything else). If it "just started to happen", then my real guess would be that you (or a driver) loaded a new product or loaded something a different way and it's getting hung up whereas it didn't before.
  5. I think I use option 4 on the drop sensor and "yes" to home if I'm not mistaken. If I'm right, option 4 makes a full turn and up to 3 jogs before refunding money and "yes" to homing activates all motors to home when the door is open. Does the LCM even have a door switch though?
  6. Does it create a short or something? On some displays, they just stop working but the machine does not restart. I'm happy if a new board+display resolves it.
  7. I have a similar experience. I only throw away the ones that stop working because once it starts, they are never reliable again. But then there are ones that just won't quit
  8. I have had this problem with other 301x machines. A slight shake or tap causes the board to restart. I'm starting to believe it's the boards but I wonder if it could be linked to the display in this case. Wiggling the display harness or slightly tapping the display will cause a restart. This became apparent after replacing a Maka with a Mars. I don't know if a solder joint may have cracked when I switched harnesses but I don't understand why or how that could make the display connections sensitive. I have no problem using an inone board. I just want to know if anyone knows if there could be something else. The last machine that gave me grief ended up getting scrapped. I only have space for the 3013 here. Also, has anyone put a card reader on a 3013? Should I be able to mount it at the top similar to an AP 7000?
  9. Whenever my Coinco BA validators crap out on me, they go into the trash. My records indicate that I have 15 Coinco BAs and 1 Mag left in the field, with probably 3 more Mags sitting around at my house. I have probably trashed over 20 BAs in the last several years. They aren't the worst bill acceptors in the world but they aren't as good as many other options out there either. Since you have a 501e, I am going to assume it has an SIID board in it. If your machine already has MDB connected, then my recommendation is to get either a Mars 2502/2512 or a mars 2702/2712. As long as it ends in a 2 and you have a mars MDB harness to go with it (you can buy them separately if needed), then you should be good to go. If the machine is not already setup for MDB, then I recommend buying the validator mentioned above and pair it with either a Coinco 9302-gx or a Mars CF 7512. You can buy all of these refurbished for a lot cheaper than buying them new and they are all reliable components. You will also need an MDB harness for an SIID board if it isn't MDB already.
  10. If it ices all over again, then there could be several problems but the most common problem is low refrigerant
  11. I don't know about the 2145 but the first thing to realize is that machines will often disable devices when the door switch isn't pressed down (when the door is open). Then, understand that the coin mech could be the problem. If it can't give change (or a bad sensor makes it think it can't), then you'll have to try a different coin mech. Finally, the bill acceptor could be the problem too. If I were you, I'd make sure it had plenty change in it, perform a tube fill if necessary, and replace the coin mech to see if that works. I would replace the validator regardless.
  12. When I say scrolls, I am referring to price scrolls. Some machines can have price scrolls installed which are just long rolls of label that you can quickly adjust to display the price. They are just small rolls with pricing on it. If y our price is $1.00 and you want to change it to $1.10, you just scroll it over to display that. You still have to program the machine for the actual price but the scrolls just make it easier for you to quickly change it so the customer can see it next to the selection number. Some machines (older machines) used a "price sheet" which was just a sheet with a lot of little "tabs" as I will call them. Each one had a price on it and a sheet might have about 100 per sheet. You'll only need a couple sheets and you can reuse them except you might not need certain prices for a long time. So if your prices are $1.00 for LSS chips now, and you change to $1.10 in the future, then you'll have to replace them with $1.10 "tabs". If nothing in your machine is going to $1.00, then your $1.00 tabs are pretty much useless for a while. With the scrolls, they often go in increments of 5 cents up to $1.00 higher (ie. $1.00 - $2.00) and sometimes you can use 2 separate scrolls, one for dollars and one for cents... so you the cents goes from .00 to .95 and the dollars may go up to $10 or more. So if you want to go from $1.00 to $2.50, you just change one scroll from $1 to $2 and the other scroll from .00 to .50. The catch? Scrolls get bent up over time and, once damaged, they become the biggest pain in the golpher to deal with. A label maker will make labels pretty fast but cutting them and pasting them is a bit time consuming. New price scrolls (the National 167 will use them) are cheap but the cost adds up a bit when you add a lot. They are about $1 each but each selection should really have 2 scrolls to make it easy in the long run because you would probably never have to buy them again as long as they don't get damaged. You can probably get by for a while if you get the scrolls that go from $0.55 - $1.50. It will just be a pain once you go beyond $1.50, and believe me.. it won't take long to need to go above $1.50 especially if you will be paying commission. I am convinced myself that I should stop using the label maker for most machines and just pay up for new scrolls and tabs. If someone has an opinion on price scrolls/tabs vs. using a label maker, fill me in.
  13. The 167, as long as it's clean and working, then the most you should ever have to do (to add a card reader) is to update the e-prom (not necessarily though) and, of course, add the card reader. If it needs cleaned up and/or repaired, then there's more work but that applies to any machine. For the AP 7000, you can either add a revision door or just replace the front and trim. Replacing the front and trim takes more time as LACanteen showed (takes his guys 1.5 hours and they know what they are doing) but it will still look nice. You can also replace the buttons but that's a bit of an advanced explanation. Whether you add the revision door (which comes with the board, drop sensor, and LED lights), then you should only need to follow the directions for its installation, replace the mech and validator, add a card reader if you have it, and clean up the machine and paint if necessary. You want the shelves and coils to look nice because that's the main part the customer will see (and the outside of course) but cleaning everything is important. If you want to go the cheaper route and add just a new board, you will save at least $500 in the end. An AP 7000 can still look pretty decent once its cleaned up and has a new front, new trim, new paint, and a card reader. I don't recommend wrapping it with anything, especially healthy vending, unless you plan on having that as your niche... but why would you want to limit yourself to healthy stuff? Honestly, I wouldn't expect people at a laundromat to care about how healthy everything is. Just leave a few good options. front + trim + paint will really make it look a lot better but not as much as a revision door. For you, my recommendation is to definitely get the National 167 (as long as it doesn't look like it fell off a truck), get it priced (and add new price scrolls if necessary), possibly paint the outside if it needs it (not the front, just the sides/top and maybe back) and replace the vinyl front/trim if it really could use it. For the AP 7000, I recommend replacing the vinyl front, new trim, new VE UCB or InOne board with drop sensors, refurbished mars MDB validator and refurbished MDB coin mechanism (ideally a mars CF 7512 and mars 2702/2712), and clean it up as needed. You may also need a price sheet so you can price everything since I don't think there's anyway to make an AP 7000 use scrolls. Alternatively, you can buy a label maker if you don't already own one and make your own labels for pricing. If I were in your situation and I thought I would make good money at a laundromat location (like $2,500+ per year PER MACHINE), then I would buy a refurbished snack with a 501e and have it delivered by the refurbisher. It would cost me more than what you are getting machines for but my time is limited and I wouldn't settle for slow locations anyway. Vendors larger than me can get away with it because they have enough employees to have at least one employee refurbish machines in-house. If you have the time though, refurbish it yourself and save a lot of money. The only downside is that you might get confused on how to put parts back on after you've had to take them off. I think your path is good for learning so as long as you feel good about it and you have a little cash to burn, you should feel optimistic because you should be able to recover quickly even if you make mistakes early on. You are doing things kind of a harder method but you'll be more prepared for future events in my opinion. Edit: Just so you know, the AP 7000 was one of the best machines made in its day, but it is not suitable for good locations in today's market (unless you live in the middle of nowhere and you can't get anything else) unless it gets some upgrades. So, why many of us will say good things about it, that doesn't mean you should buy every AP 7000 you see. The National 167 is a far better machine for today's standards. If you found two 167's it would be 100 times better for you to buy both of them, even if they were $1,000/each and the AP 7000 was $200. The AP 7000 is okay once it's been upgraded but I just want to make it clear that the National 167 is a far better deal at $500 than the AP 7000 is.
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