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Everything posted by AZVendor

  1. I think it's a lowering shelf machine based on the old style model and serial numbers.
  2. Sounds like a lowering shelf machine. Are the motor cams metal? If so you should junk it. They are ancient with no parts available and dificult to keep running.
  3. The 650 has motors on each column with front and back columns. You need to load product tops to the back in the rear and to the front in the front columns. The only shims you might need are for 16.9 soda bottles and those are formed metal shims from Royal. You can do two cans deep in any column but only one product deep for all other products. You must use the Set Depth program item to tell the machine how many products deep each column will be. Make sure the antibridging sheets (white) are installed on the left side of each bottle column or your products with bridge somewhere above the vend rotor and not drop down to the rotor.
  4. Cold food is a loss leader. If you must provide it then you will not make any profit on that machine and can lose money on it. Most people with cold food machines will end up with over half the slots filled with non-perishable items like juices, energy drinks, and water. You can use shelf-stable food items like Raman and Hormel chili and Dinty Moore stew and some will use long shelf life items such as Otis Spunkmeyer muffins and frozen sandwiches from Bridgeford Foods or Pierre. You can do puddings, jello, and fruit cups or even pieces of fruit. Salads have only a 3 day shelf life and fresh made foods are only 5 days so don't even try them. As you can see this will be an uphill battle. You should not use any Rowe machines and not the National 430 but the 431 is a good one. Be prepared to jump back out of the business if you can't sell enough to make money from yours but you will never get back what you pay for the machine either if you buy at too high a price. $500 might even be too high knowing you won't make money with it.
  5. That is the only way to follow up if you lose one. I always included my key numbers on every route card for this very reason.
  6. Is the key number stamped on the lock? Your newbie question implies that you think incorrectly that a Rowe snack would have only one key in every machine made. And, newbie, Rowe has been gone for 20 years or so. If you don't have the key number stamped on the lock then you need to drill the lock out and replace it and the T-handle because you will surely ruin it. That will be cheaper than calling a locksmith to be sure.
  7. You probably mean it's a V21 which could be a 621, 721 or 821 depending on it's size. Yes, an excellent machine. Take it.
  8. It's a Royal G3 chain drive with 12 columns front to back which requires space-to-sales setup. Pretty complicated for a novice and then difficult to get labels for. Keep looking.
  9. No, you need to call Seaga and hope they still carry it.
  10. If you're speaking of setting the motors for different products please tell us 3 things: what was in the columns before, what is going to be in the columns now and does the machine have a credit display on it that shows how much money was put in? If you have red/white wide column motors you will need to loosen the flat philips head screw in the face of the front motor cam to adjust it. Some furthest adjustment require the screw to come out and then be reinstalled after adjustment. If you have to do that be careful NOT to cross thread the screw hole. If you have grey motor cams on narrow columns you adjust them in the same way. If you have green/yellow wide motor cams and brown narrow columns cams you will gently pry the front cam away from the rear cam where you see holes in the front cams and then move the front cam. All of this requires us to know what products you are changing from and going to. Keep in mind that you can't do any 20oz products in a DN368 and you can't do glass bottles or any package smaller than 12 oz cans.
  11. Use this setup guide for 12 oz cans so you make sure you can vend what you put in it. https://rc.cranems.com/Uploads/96-470-04.pdf The narrow column can shim has a 1/2" lip on the bottom and the bottle shim that might be in the machine has a 1/4" lip on the bottom. These hang on the right side of the columns. If one motor switch is bad then change them all out because the switches are rated at 125vac but they only have 5vdc running through them. As they age they get moisture inside which corrodes the contacts and when the 5v can't be seen by the logic board you get these failures along with false sold out messages.
  12. Probably a low heat gun and pulling them off would work. Might need Goo Gone to clean it up after.
  13. If all the product is gone and there's little money in the machine then if you have a Coinco mech you probably have a bad acceptor gate that doesn't direct coins to the coin box. Instead the coins give credit and come back to the coin return cup. This allows free vends and the ability to empty the machine. They can also empty the changer by setting a credit and then pressing the coin return to pay coins out. I had this happen at a CompUSA store over the course of one week. Management took no responsibility and I realized how bad off our world was going to be with Generation X.
  14. You can only get labels from a Dr Pepper distributor or a bottler that carries Dr Pepper and only if they used that model of machine in their operation. The machine itself is about 15 years old. It is a D3 door over the top of a 501E or maybe worse, a P series piece of junk. Aftermarket labels for these, the HVV doors and the Marketing Machines are not licensed to anyone to reproduce. There was one company making aftermarket Marketing Machine (12 oz can sized) labels but they required a purchase of 25 of each label.
  15. It might just be motor 2 off home due to a jam or bad motor brake or a bad motor cluster switch.
  16. Sounds like the building is as porous as one of my accounts was years ago. I had two guys easily pry a gate and door open and get inside an old manufacturing business over a weekend. They found a fire ax and went to town on an old Vendo cable-drive snack and a Choice Vend I had there. I had just collected the machines late that Friday so all that was in the machines was tube coins in nickel/nickel and a nickel/dime Coinco mechs. They trashed both machines to get to about $7 worth of coins. Losers gonna lose.
  17. Bill the location for the damage since they didn't provide good security or prevent their employees from damaging the machines. They will probably tell you to pound sand so it's an opportunity to walk from a crap account. A Polyvend that you can't get parts for is not a good solution unless you're hoping for a reason to scrap the Polyvend as well.
  18. It could be a bad sold out light on the selection button but if that doesn't fix it then you have a bad sold out switch mounted above the motor. It is very common for sold out lights to begin flickering as they get old so that is probably what is wrong, assuming the selections still vend.
  19. When the correct amount of money is inserted and verified then a pulse is sent from the credit line of the coin mech to the relay to energize the vend circuit. The relay then waits for a selection to be made which the vend motor switch confirms as it begins to run, causing the relay to open the vend circuit so no other selections can be made from that credit. It is possible that your coin mech isn't putting out a correct pulse to the relay and you would have to get it tested. The other thing about this machine is that it uses all 24V circuits and devices such as the coin mech and the bill validator. While you might get the coin mech tested on someone's tester there may not be parts for it if there is a failure and you might have great difficulty finding another 24V single price mech as they were rare. You probably have a Maka coin mech and I don't think that Coinco or Mars made 24V single price mechs. It also sounds like you are able to put money in and set a credit as confirmed by change being paid back but can you then immediately put more money in and have it set another credit? If so then you might have a bad motor that is trying to run upon the setting of a credit. I don't know if you can bypass any motor and keep the machine running. If instead, you have to unplug the coin mech or the machine to be able to get the machine to accept more money then the relay is the problem which you'll never be able to find a replacement for. Here is the manual for it: https://515f3e44-bcef-4b52-99d8-6b4bd7c3b77d.filesusr.com/ugd/e49953_cd74b45998ab465e9c50f63a5884c2c3.pdf If you look in the troubleshooting section for "Money accepted no product vended" you'll see the first suggested is to test with a cheater cord, but that is for a 110v single price machine. The second suggestion to check the Diode Jumper is not familiar to me for single price machines so that might be specific to this 24v relay - worth taking a look. Checking Switch #1 is a good suggestion but you said you tested all your switches already. Beyond these steps you're looking at replacing parts that you can't get.
  20. Also, if your machine is not deeper than your pallet jack all you have to do is set the machine down just outside of the lip, lower the pallet jack and push it's front wheels up over the lip and then lift again. Voila, it's in.
  21. The motors have sold out switches on them that cans rest against. It is a single price machine only so if it accepts money there must be at least one sold out switch that is satisfied.
  22. Yup. Check you own keys to ensure you don't already have the nub filed off. That could cause you to leave locks in this almost unlocked position. If it wasn't your key then you got picked or you have a key number stamped on the face of your lock and someone used their own key to get in. You may not have any money in the machine now. After you file your key down then you have to always be careful that you leave your lock in the fully locked position each time because you can then pull the key out from any position.
  23. Use the instructions on page 35 and use TRAY LVL to set prices on an entire shelf.
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