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Everything posted by AZVendor

  1. I have not heard of any laws that require retrofitting of machines for GFI's on existing machines. Federal laws allow grandfathering of existing equipment and that is where this mandate came from. Only machines reconditioned by the factory or sold new fall under the new GFI requirements. Are you in a public facility that tells you this stuff is needed? I would still want to see the California law that applies. It is not recommended to put any soda or coffee machine on a power strip or surge protector as they draw too much current. When they start, the compressors will pull up to 18 amps on startup and the heating element uses 1500+ watts at their hottest. I see that the Tripp Lite power strip breaker is only rated at 12 amps so it's likely to trip on its own. In addition, if you combine a GFI cord and a surge suppressor together you are greatly weakening the circuit and restricting the current flow. The factory GFI's aren't all they're cracked up to be either. I have had to cut several out of the power cords of my customer's machines so the machines will work. The GFI's will trip for no reason or just not reset, and this even happens on snack machines. In my opinion, you are worrying about the Guberment too much. I wouldn't invest in any unneeded equipment until I was actually cited with a violation.
  2. The AP 7600 could be picking up interference from not only the light in the machine, if it ever flickers, or from lights in the ceiling that flicker. Look for lights near the machine, even in a nearby soda machine, overhead that might look like they are off compared to how many lights are on in other fixtures. If there are seemingly burned out lamps overhead or in the soda machine, they will occasionally flicker when they try to start. Any nearby burned out lamps need to be replaced or removed to prevent interference. The flickering will cause the lamps to emit electromagnetic radiation that can cause the snack logic board to become confused by the strange input and lock the board up. Turning off and back on clears this situation. It's doubtful you have a bad coin mech or validator, but you might have an intermittent problem in your logic board if all the lights around are on steadily. You should also check for a good ground in your machine back to the ground prong on the power plug and also check for proper voltages on the outlet. You should have 105V (preferably 110V+) or more from the small slot in the outlet to ground and from the small slot to the wide slot. Less than 105V can cause problems with the board. You should also have 0V from the wide slot to ground. If you read any voltage from the wide slot to ground, there is a faulty ground in the circuit that will feed back into the machine and cause problems. This will then need to be repaired by an electrician, and locations hate to be told that.
  3. Welcome to Vending! You can go to the Vendo website, www.vendoco.com, for a manual for your soda machine. And you can go to the snack manufacturer's site for that manual. Whatever specific questions you might have regarding these machines, or vending in general, you can post in the Beverage and Food forum.
  4. Boy, I'd think twice about doing a single coffee machine, especially if it's your first, just to prove your worth to someone. If you're not doing coffee already, it will be a learning experience that could have some pitfalls, like not making a profit. There are some lower priced single cup machines out that would be best plumbed in. You can find Brio 250's (distributed by Vendors Exchange) and sometimes Cafe 7's built by National Vendors for pretty good prices.
  5. It looks like column 7 has both switch arms in the notch of the motor cam. This will cause col. 7 to pre-vend when a credit is set. If this is the motor you had trouble with before, you should change the motor. If it's a different motor then you need to work on it to check the brake operation as you did before.
  6. Forward me the manual and I'll look at it to determine what might be wrong. cvrepair@q.com
  7. There is no way for anyone to remotely diagnose whether you have shorted a wire in the machine. You need to give more complete information such as did the wall breaker trip immediately upon plugging the machine in, the cooling unit in, upon starting of the compressor if it was delayed. Before the breaker tripped were any fans running? You could have a short in the thermostat wiring, the wiring on the fan you replaced or in the socket you plug the compressor into. Is it a power strip that tripped or an actual wall circuit breaker? Why do you say you almost burned the place down, was there smoke or fire? From where?
  8. If you have a stuck motor with both switches out of the cam, the machine won't accept any money while that motor is trying to run. When that stuck motor gets hot enough it will turn off for a short time, and during the time that jammed motor is off the machine will vend other selections. Once the jammed motor cools off and powers up to try turning again, then the machine won't take money. If you could take close up photos of each motor so I can see the switches and motor cams then I could possibly tell you where your problem is. The vend relays are rarely the problem, but you could have a wire loose in the socket side of the coin mech plug or the vend relay socket, or you could have had a wire come off of one of your selections switches which could kill the whole machine, depending on which wire it is.
  9. I have never heard of a Fresh-O-Matic machine before. When I did a search for that I only found a company out of Canada that is a biz-op outfit selling Seaga machines under the Fresh-O-Matic name. I have never seen a 3 selection Seaga machine so I have no idea where it's from, but I'd bet it's made in China with no tech or parts support. Seaga is a company to stay away from as they build sub-standard machines that they offer paltry tech and parts support for and any foreign made machine is a red flag as well. Please don't pay even $50 for something that has never been seen on the market before. Spend your money on good used American made machines please.
  10. On a Vendo 407 single price machine you will have rejected coins if an unused credit is on the machine or a motor is not at home. If there's no credit that can be used by pressing any selection button then pull the motor cover off and check all the motor switches. You might have a jammed column or a motor that is not home. The home position will have one switch arm in the notch of the motor cam and one switch arm on the high side of the cam. You might also have a stuck gate link if you have rotors in all columns. If not rotors in the columns then you have a lowering shelf machine in which a column might jam just because the machine is so old the moving parts don't move so easy anymore. Also, if you have tried to use water bottles in any column, that might be the jammed column.
  11. That is a USI CB300 6 select multiprice soda machine that will handle cans or bottles. $200 is an excellent price for it even if you need to do some repairs on it. Now if the compressor is bad, then you need to know it will be about $300-400 to put a new compressor in it.
  12. I have some F631 labels in stock. I think they will also fit the Z400. What flavors are you looking for?
  13. Dammit, I just noticed I responded to another post resurected from the dead...... You can only install card readers on MDB capable machines. You can't install them on single price soda machines or machines that only have a provision for a 12 or 15 pin coin mech. You can upgrade some older snacks to MDB with either a MDB conversion kit or a new logic board conversion that will accept MDB. USA Technologies or InOne Technologies are good manufacturers to start with when looking into card readers. You're not restricted to any one backoffice solution to transfer card information with as you can choose anyone you want to process your transactions. The card reader manufacturers all have backoffice services available as well. The best thing you can do is try to stick with one card reader supplier and one backoffice supplier to make things easier.
  14. If you are not going to need the machine for a week or so, you can hose out the entire machine. The compressor and motors are okay, just leave the motor cover on. If you pull the compressor first you can hose it off separately to really clean it well and then also the inside bottom of the cabinet where the compressor was at. In the door, the only things you need to protect are the logic board and the display board. When I wash out these machines I pull the logic board, display board, coin mech and validator. Then I hose off everything except the left side of the inside of the door (where the electronics were). Pay particular to the inside of each column and the rotors since you have had leaking sodas. If you are going to replace your selection buttons, you can wash them off, just don't go any higher than them. I also remove the drain pan and completely clean it of syrup and I spray down into the drain hose to clear it out. Then I let is drain outside for a few hours (I have them up on 4x4 blocks so that tipping the machine forward with the door open 90 deg. it will stay leaning forward. After it drains then I put 3 fans on it: one blowing on the inside of the door, one blowing up high into the cabinet and one blowing low into the cabinet. After a couple of days of drying, depending on ambient temperature, (we are in the high 90's here now) then take the rubber covered harnesses and dump the water out of them. You can now wipe down the entire inside of the door, cabinet and any other details and you can begin reassembling the machine. The machine is outdoor rated, so you can plug the compressor in and it should run fine as will the motors.
  15. A good used motor is $35.00 and a new motor is $85.00. Let me know if you need one.
  16. I agree with what Moondog said. I wouldn't buy the machines for the location, in fact I'd pull the machines and put them somewhere else. But I'd only buy them at $800 if they are in great shape, otherwise there are better machines out there for that price.
  17. The AP130 series is what they were building when Crane took them over. Crane continued to build them until the stock of parts ran out. There are some parts that aren't easy to get, if at all, but they are good machines. I have some parts for them, what do you need?
  18. Okay, that is a standard Schrader valve that is put on replacement compressors, so that means this compressor has been replaced before. Since it has this type of valve you can install a standard refer gauge set to measure the pressure. If you buy a gauge set it needs to have an R12/R134 scale. Use the R12 scale and the blue hose on the blue gauge to check low side pressure. After running for a few minutes you should see 18-20 lbs. If it's overcharged you can slightly loosen the fitting at the compressor to bleed gas off. This isn't the legal way to do it (you're supposed to use a recovery tank) but do it slowly and see if you can get down to 18-20. Don't let too much out or you might end up undercharged. Keep in mind that you won't get proper pressure readings until all the fans run properly.
  19. You're right, my math was wrong. The manual is correct in the switch values, but if a value isn't added into the price correctly, just work that switch back and forth until it cleans up and registers correctly.
  20. This is a typical Seaga setup. The fan on the condenser probably runs all the time as will the two evaporator fans. It is real common for these fans to wear out and I think the condenser fan is bad since you said it will stop running. This is probably all that was wrong to begin with. I can't see where you added freon at, but you probably need to let some out - you just can't do it without the proper gauges on the unit so you'll know when the pressure is correct.
  21. Well since there aren't any true adjustments to make (bending the switch arm isn't an adjustment, you will need to straighten it when the problem is solved) you need to check and see if the motor brake is gummy. The brake is the brass colored piece that hugs one side of the winding. It pivots on each side and it connects to a white nylon hook that stops the motor. When the motor starts and a magnetic field is created, the brass is pulled against the motor and releases the brake. When power stops, the magnetic field immediately is broken and the brake should quickly release and engage the hook to stop the motor. If the brake is not gummed up you can tap the brass piece easily and loosely against the motor over and over, but if you can't do this and the brake reacts to your tapping slowly, then it's gummed up. The easiest fix is to spray glass cleaner on the two pivot points and then work the heck out of the brake to clean it up. If this works then dry it off and let it run. Check it the next time you're there to see if it still works easily. If not, you will need to replace the motor. Don't forget to straighten the switch arm when it's fixed. I have motors in stock if you need one.
  22. Make sure you don't have any openings in the cabinet that they might come in through, like around the power cord or openings on the back for auxiliary harnesses. They can also get in around the delivery door, so you probably want to put some traps in the machine and then keep an eye on all your products for awhile because they will eat everything. Just a nibble here and a nibble there.
  23. No, when the column is sold out, the motor won't run automatically because it's locked out by the sold out switches, however a motor off home can sometimes inhibit coin acceptance. In addition, if you have a stuck selection switch and that column sells out, no one can then buy anything from the other columns. The machine will accept one credit and then sit there waiting for the stuck column to vend.
  24. Switch 2/5/6 on equals $1.30. Remember that the first switch on the left is .05 and each switch to the right doubles in value. If turning on a particular switch doesn't seem to work, just work the switch on and off a few times to clean the contacts.
  25. Can you post a complete picture of this unit or a couple of pics that show the compressor, the evaporator and the fans, so that we can see what the fans are blowing through. Since one of your pics shows 2 fans, one is probably pulling air through the condenser and one blows air across the evaporator. The condenser will be in the bottom of the machine to transfer heat out of the machine and the evaporator is in the cold part of the cabinet. If either one of these fans run slow or stop, you will have problems. The evaporator fan stopping will allow the evaporator to freeze. The condenser fan stopping will cause the compressor to overheat and turn off. The fans look like they are the same size, etc., but you don't know until you look at their part numbers. You can probably find replacements at Graingers or Johnstone Supply if you have any in your area. The evaporator fan should run all the time, the condenser fan may or may not, depending on how it was wired by Seaga - I've seen both. It is pretty common for those fans to fail or slow down. As to the gauge you mentioned, it is for DIY use in cars only and is not even good for that, not for any kind of precision work. There is no way that even using the setup you had on a car would be charging that system properly either. You have to have the correct equipment for the job. We don't evaluate proper charge by "low" and "full" or "alert". We use proper gauge sets that measure the charge in PSI on the low side of the system. I can assure you the system is likely to be overcharged now and even replacing a bad or marginal fan you have introduced a new problem to the machine.
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