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Motors on 440


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I've had a few of my motors slipping lately. The break arm and test arm are both falling in the valley of the cam and it's vending 0, 1, then 2 cans at a time. Automatic vend out of that row when you put in a credit till I adjusted it. What's the fix to this?

This machine was sitting at a shop with no use for a while. But I've been running it well for a few years. Now they're slipping.

Any cleaning, service necessary?

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Don't use any WD40 on the motors as that will attract more dirt and eventually make the problem worse.  You probably have a sticky brake causing the motor to coast past where it should be stopping.  You will notice a brass colored bracket that hugs the motor winding.  This is the brake actuator that pulls against the motor when it energizes, releasing the brake so the motor can turn.  When the motor power is off the brake is supposed to quickly release, causing the accompanying nylon hook to engage the armature and stop the motor.  If the pivot point of the brass brake is gummed up, it won't lock the motor fast enough to prevent coasting. Spray some glass cleaner on the pivot point and then work the heck out of the brake until it is loose enough that it seems to rattle.  Now the brake should work properly.  If it doesn't then you need to replace the motor. 

 

I have good used motors in stock if you end up needing one.

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That's a myth. WD works fine. It is not a real lubricant. This is were we will disagree. Glass cleaner is an alcohol base water. Water should not be used near 110volt motors.

I agree about the pivot. We both know that the correct way is to remove the bushings and clean, lube and reassemble. But, it's not what was asked....

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Do not use any sprays.

 

Anything you are likely to find will leave a residue.

 

If you do find something labeled as “NO Residue” they are bad for plastics regardless of what the label says.

 

I have not seen one that can pass my no residue test. My test is simple spray the cleaner on a clean mirror let it dry for 5 minutes if the mirror is clean and dry it passes. If you think the residue will not attract dust do the mirror test and dust the residue with flour and tell me if it sticks

 

Take the motor a part clean the pieces with denatured alcohol. Only takes a few minutes to do it right and it will last a lot longer than slathering it with oil will.

 

 

Walt

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AV, WD40 itself probably didn't gum up the motors but loosened the crude which did. The additional spraying is likely what flushed the crude out allowing it to work freely.

Since we all have different takes on what to use lets do this.....

Do NOT use

-Silicone spray. Silicone can cause the switches to malfunction.

-Contact cleaners. Unless you test them on a non working unit I would not use it. This can eat or soften up some plastic on or near whatever you are spraying.

-Water. Obviously water is great at flushing out syrup but it is a no no near electricity.

-White lithium grease. This used to be what every vending tech had and used. Machines were liberally coated with this goop. This is old school and should not be needed on newer equipment.

Let's face it. Unless it is taken apart as Walta stated we are only doing a boo boo fix. Residue, dirt attraction, and other negatives come from this type of fix.

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When I have used the exotic cleaners that claimed to be “plastic safe” and they did not soften the plastic. But a few months later the plastic had crystallized and was brittle when it failed.

Walta

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AV, WD40 itself probably didn't gum up the motors but loosened the crude which did. The additional spraying is likely what flushed the crude out allowing it to work freely.

Since we all have different takes on what to use lets do this.....

Do NOT use

-Silicone spray. Silicone can cause the switches to malfunction.

-Contact cleaners. Unless you test them on a non working unit I would not use it. This can eat or soften up some plastic on or near whatever you are spraying.

-Water. Obviously water is great at flushing out syrup but it is a no no near electricity.

-White lithium grease. This used to be what every vending tech had and used. Machines were liberally coated with this goop. This is old school and should not be needed on newer equipment.

Let's face it. Unless it is taken apart as Walta stated we are only doing a boo boo fix. Residue, dirt attraction, and other negatives come from this type of fix.

Makes sense. Thanks for your replies. So is Windex safe? How do we summon the other veterans on this forum?

Lol..

I'm going to pm them.

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ZEP makes a spray solvent called Kwik Solv. It should be available at Home Depot. It is a solvent base degreaser and works great. ZEP also made a cleaner/degreaser which was nonconductive. You could submersed motors in it and run them to clean. I think it was called Zeep or Deet. I would not use WD40 on motors.

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I don’t have a problem with Windex if you disassemble the motor clean the parts with almost anything dry the parts and reassemble. A quick mist and a dry is good.  Dunking, soaking and spraying are bad.

Windex is 25 % alcohol.

Isopropyl is 70 % alcohol.

Denatured is 90 % alcohol. From the hardware store.

 

Walta

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Syrup is what has gummed up the motors.......... Nothing loosens syrup except hot water..... Buy some spare motors from someone like AZ and replace your defective motors. Then take the old motors and you can disassemble them. Take the brake parts and clean with some hot soapy water. Never use any spray cleaners they can damage the plastic parts. If you don't believe me take a piece of metal, or plastic and pour pop on it, Let it set for a few days till it hardens and then spray it with all the cleaners and solvents you want. In the end it will still be there. Hot soapy water is the only thing that works 100% of the time..

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I used CRC QD electronic cleaner, on the front of the can it says, leaves no residue, plastic safe cleans and protects sensitive electronic equipment, helps prevent contact failure. This is what I use for cleaning sensors on automotive applications and haven't had a problem yet.

John

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I not sure what you are saying orsd

If you are saying Windex is 100% alcohol and ammonia I beg to differ

There is so little alcohol on Windex it does not even burn if you get it in a cut.

As for ammonia household is 5% ammonia and 95% water. Put that in a spray bottle and you will clear the room.

This is consumer reports window cleaner recipe that tests well.

• About 7 pints cold water (108 ounces)

• 1/2 cup soapy ammonia

• 1 pint rubbing alcohol

So 1/8 if it, is alcohol or 12.5 % but that alcohol is 30% water so that is 8.4% of the total.

If you are saying denatured alcohol is 100% ethanol read this from wiki

Formulations[edit source | edit]

There are several grades of denatured alcohol, but in general the denaturants used are similar. As an example, the formulation for completely denatured alcohol, according to British regulations is as follows: [3]

Completely denatured alcohol must be made in accordance with the following formulation: with every 90 parts by volume of alcohol mix 9.5 parts by volume of wood naphtha or a substitute and 0.5 parts by volume of crude pyridine, and to the resulting mixture add mineral naphtha (petroleum oil) in the proportion of 3.75 litres to every 1000 litres of the mixture and synthetic organic dyestuff (methyl violet) in the proportion of 1.5 grams to every 1000 litres of the mixture.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol

Walta

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