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Dixie-Narco squealing


Spinrb8

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I have a Dixie-Narco DN 5591 and it started squealing pretty loud. I've unplugged it then plugged back in and it makes a little noise on start up then quits but eventually starts squealing again. It seems to be cooling okay. I'm assuming it's a compressor but thought I'd get a little professional advice before I did anything.

Thanks

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Take the bad motor with you when getting a replacement so you get the same rotation on your new motor.  You don't want your fan to run backwards.  You can get the motors at Grainger or Johnstone Supply locally.

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Just to ease your mind, Feral, the machine in question is a DN5591 so it's much newer and uses the front facing condenser(s).  The old units you and I remember were the original ones built by ECC that had the dumb side-facing condenser that used a slide in air filter because you couldn't easily clean the condenser.  Then there was the inability of removing that entire cooling unit for repair because they built the cabinet around the evaporator.  I think ECC is where the USI refrigeration "engineers" got their schooling.

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Just to ease your mind, Feral, the machine in question is a DN5591 so it's much newer and uses the front facing condenser(s).  The old units you and I remember were the original ones built by ECC that had the dumb side-facing condenser that used a slide in air filter because you couldn't easily clean the condenser.  Then there was the inability of removing that entire cooling unit for repair because they built the cabinet around the evaporator.  I think ECC is where the USI refrigeration "engineers" got their schooling.

 

And then they got rehired by DN just in time to redesign the 5800 compressor. Heh. How did they completely figure out the near perfect compressor ( DN5000 ) and then take a giant step backwards to the 5800? I'm going to blame all that crack they started smoking.

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I hear you on the 5800.  I think the design of the 5800 was necessitated by the elevator system that made it too difficult to remove the cooling system without removing the elevator.  

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I ordered the fan I needed but it spins in the opposite direction its suppose to. Any chance switching the wires would change the direction? I need to know before I contact the dealer and raise heck. If not I suppose I can mount the fan in the other direction.

Thanks

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No, you can't change the direction of motor rotation and turning the fan blade around will not change the direction of airflow either.  That's why I recommended taking the fan assembly to match it up properly.  If you're ever uncertain of what direction a motor will turn (because the manufacturers all confuse the rotation descriptions) then you can take the bare leads and push them into an outlet and watch the rotation of the motor.  If you're in Las Vegas you don't have a Grainger there to walk into?

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Okay, I see. I do have a Grainger but not willing to pay Grainger prices. I wouldn't think mounting the whole fan backwards would hurt it in any way would it?

Thanks again.

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Good point, appreciate all your advice and help. It's what I get for taking short cuts. That's the same fan I have but I need CCW. The fan should blow toward the condenser right, away from the radiator?

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Okay, I see. I do have a Grainger but not willing to pay Grainger prices. I wouldn't think mounting the whole fan backwards would hurt it in any way would it?

Thanks again.

how much money are you losing with a broken machine?

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Your exactly right orsd. The fan I looked at was twice the price, even then I would have been better off still. Lesson learned. I'll be going to Grainger tomorrow for a 4YFJ8.

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Sounds like I made another goof. According to the dealer I bought the fan from that even though the motor spins clockwise it's still a counter clockwise motor. He says the rotation on all motors is figured from the lead end, not the shaft end. Wonderful...

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Well, the dealer is not totally correct.  The rotation can be described from the shaft end or the lead end and each manufacturer is different in how they describe it, leading to the industry confusion.  That's why it's always best to take the fan assembly or at least the fan blade with you so you can refer to it for proper rotation and then test the motor to confirm it before you buy it.  I always buy the same motors since I replace many of them so I don't have to go through that too often unless I have a special motor size or my motor is out of stock.

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If I had listened to you in the first place I would have paid what I wanted to pay, now I will pay double for my mistake haha. We learn from our mistakes I guess. Thank God for Forums like this.

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You should be able to return the incorrect motor since they told you it was correct and it isn't. 

Also see if they'll send you a UPS call tag so you don't have to pay shipping back to them since it was their mistake.

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They did offer to return it. Since I wasn't sure what I was doing I feel at fault so I'm just going to eat it. That and I also cut the cord a few inches shorter. The fan does say ccw on it according to them and that's what I thought I wanted. Tomorrow I will pull it and see for sure. I do need it to spin ccw but just to be right I'm going to Grainger first thing.

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I went to Grainger Friday, got the right motor and did the swap. I let machine run over the weekend and checked on it today to find out it's not cooling now. Was cooling fine before the fan motor switch out. Do I need to reprogram the electronics since it sat for a week? Looking for manual now.

Thanks

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There's no programming related to the cooling.  What are you symptoms?  Is the compressor running (hot to the touch)?  Is the new fan running?  Is the evaporator fan in the cabinet running?  Is there ice on the evaporator in the lower right rear corner of the product cabinet behind the shelves? 

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The new fan is running, inside tepmp is 69. Without pulling everything out everything seemed okay. didn't see any ice build up. I just unplugged machine until I can get back over at it. Ran to pick up manual and check forum.

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