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Crane 623 Coffee tank at 208 degrees


elvin

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I have a Crane 623 coffee machine.  About a month ago it quit heating because the connections at the heater were so corroded from water that the terminals came loose.  I cleaned that up with new wire terminals at the heater and the thermostat, and it works now.  The problem is that it is now keeping the tank at 208 degrees.  I can change the setting in the menu all I want but it makes no difference.  It is turning the power to the heater on at 207 and shutting it off at 209, while before all this it had no problem keeping it at 180 degrees.  Has anyone seen anything like this before? 

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Temp probe is most likely bad. It is heating up until the boil over overload shuts it down and then resets would be my guess. That probe is not real expensive and goes in at the top of the tank. Not hard to change out. It gets deposits on it and won't read the temp correctly.  

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I just want to clarify that if I go into the diagnostics that it says the tank temperature is 208.  So the machine it reading that the temp is 208, but then is somehow choosing to keep sending electricity to the heater.  I believe you are right about the overload, because I can hear it clicking on and off.  Thanks for your help.

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I think you might have a driver board issue if the probe signals the correct temperature to the driver board but the board doesn't turn the heater off.  If you were getting low temperature readings but you were boiling over, as you are now, then that would be caused by a bad probe.  I think that if you change the probe you might still have the boil-over issue.  You might want to also change your overload as they start to go bad when they are used a lot like this.

 

If you don't have a source for parts you can PM me for help.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Check the Tri-ac. That's probably the culprit. It's located behind the side panel, below the control and driver boards. When it goes bad it sticks open most of the time. It should be really easy to tell if it's bad, it will crumble apart in your fingers when you try to remove it.

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  • 2 months later...

If you have substantial lime built up on the probe then it could throw off the sensing but after that much lime has accumulated I would replace the probe.  You might also want to delime the tank and rebuild the valves if you have a lot of lime on just the probe.  That would be an indicator of how hard your water is and how much lime is in the tank.  Basically the tank should be removed, the heater, valves and tank lid removed then the tank delimed as well as the probe and heater.  Then you rebuild the valves, install them with new o-rings and replace the lid gasket.  After all of that you basically have a new tank.

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  • 1 month later...

If you have substantial lime built up on the probe then it could throw off the sensing but after that much lime has accumulated I would replace the probe.  You might also want to delime the tank and rebuild the valves if you have a lot of lime on just the probe.  That would be an indicator of how hard your water is and how much lime is in the tank.  Basically the tank should be removed, the heater, valves and tank lid removed then the tank delimed as well as the probe and heater.  Then you rebuild the valves, install them with new o-rings and replace the lid gasket.  After all of that you basically have a new tank.

 

And whenever you have one valve leak, rebuild all of them. It's worth it. Really.

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