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Advice on installing a Red Bull shim kit in a DN276e ?


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I've got a DN276e and just purchased the shim kit for the 8.4oz Red Bull cans.  I'm looking to install it in col 1 and was hoping someone might have some advice.  I am a newbie at this and it is the first time I've tried to install a shim kit.  Instructions came with the kit but they seem incomplete.

 

1. Prior to installing the shim angle and the can stop extended wide lip shim on the right column wall - do  you need to remove the rotor and the shim installed for 12 oz cans?

2, does the shim on the right side latch or lock into place in any way or does it just rest against the lower right side wall?

3. the filler shim on the left side appears to have a front and rear notch in it. Is that simply to allow for the round bars at the front and back? does this shim just rest there on the right side or does it firmly attach in any way?

4. if the rear spacer is removed before the column wall assembly is installed on the right side, it really cuts down on the column space and makes it very difficult to re-install the spacer afterwards.  Is there an easier way or a trick to doing this?

 

That's about as far as I've gone so far.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Eric K

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I've got a DN276e and just purchased the shim kit for the 8.4oz Red Bull cans.  I'm looking to install it in col 1 and was hoping someone might have some advice.  I am a newbie at this and it is the first time I've tried to install a shim kit.  Instructions came with the kit but they seem incomplete.

 

1. Prior to installing the shim angle and the can stop extended wide lip shim on the right column wall - do  you need to remove the rotor and the shim installed for 12 oz cans?

2, does the shim on the right side latch or lock into place in any way or does it just rest against the lower right side wall?

3. the filler shim on the left side appears to have a front and rear notch in it. Is that simply to allow for the round bars at the front and back? does this shim just rest there on the right side or does it firmly attach in any way?

4. if the rear spacer is removed before the column wall assembly is installed on the right side, it really cuts down on the column space and makes it very difficult to re-install the spacer afterwards.  Is there an easier way or a trick to doing this?

 

That's about as far as I've gone so far.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Eric K

PM Cajun - I know he's done this on a Dixie 276e

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You don't remove the rotor but turning it to face downward makes it a lot easier to install the rods and tubes. You do remove any shim you already have in the column and the side walls should hang from the top edge. The rear spacer should be set before you install the side walls because of how narrow the column then becomes. The new side shims (not walls) install the way that the can or bottle shims were installed hanging from horizontal rods in the front and rear of the stack. The secondary shim should fit into slots in the main shim.

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Many thanks for the replies.  I did download the directions but they don't go into all the steps....  I've got the old soda shim removed and the two shims on the right side resting in place.  I'll hang the left side shim from the horizontal rods. By secondary shim do you mean the one on right side that fits over the top of the main one?  there doesn't seem to be any slots other than the single slot in the length of the entire secondary that the main shim fits into.  I think that is what you are referring to, right?

I'll see if I can get the rear space in place before I install the right wall assembly and see if that works.

 

Thanks

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Success. I had trouble getting the right wall assembly in place while the rear spacer was installed. I left the bottom of the rear spacer in place but pulled out the pins on the top so it could rest against the rear of the compartment. The right wall assembly went in with no problems then. I had some problems figuring out the proper hole (17) for the pins on the rear spacer. Guess my eyes aren't what they used to be.  I straightened out a wire coat hanger and put a small "L" at the end and used it to count the holes. I just found it too hard to see which holes came before or after the marker holes.  Looks like it would help to  have much skinnier arms. Another metal rod with an "L" on the end plus a long flat screwdriver allowed me to adjust the pin holes for the rear spacer.   

Thanks for the advice

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I mentioned that in another thread, about needing skinny arms to install a Red Bull kit in a E machine.

 

The French golpher words was flying, when I did mine!

 

cajun

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  • 4 weeks later...

Tweak, please don't post the same question in multiple threads.  Your posts were only 10 minutes apart and because you are a new member any posts from you had to wait to be moderated before being put into the forum.  Be patient.  As you can see, this is a very vibrant community and no one's posts go ignored.  If you need a quicker answer then you need to ask the question of whomever sold you the parts or you can call factory tech support - for a fee.

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