Grimsweeper Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Common topic for me on my Royals lately but new issue. I have an outdoor machine that's popping the gfi outlet. Disconnecting things one at a time, validator, coin mech, what I believe would be the cooling unit/compressor, (the outlet plug mounted on the left side near the bottom interior. Each one disconnected still pops the gfi until I unplug the 4 post noise filter thing under the cooling unit plug? It's possible it got wet due to a recent snowfall but I haven't had any trouble with heavy rain etc.. I'll try to post a photo if that helps. There's no display after I unplug it but the fan is running. Not sure about the compressor. What do I try next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Disconnecting the single red wire from the filter which I'm making a vague assumption goes to the 3 amp fuse and on to the board keeps the fan running but still no display. If all else I'd like to at least keep that running rather than completely shut down overnight until I figure it out to possibly lessen the chance of my pop freezing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunCandy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Do you have working lights in machine? A shorted ballast will trip gfi too. Just for giggles try unplugging power to ballast. cajun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 That was a great suggestion. I unplugged the ballast and it was so brittle the plug fell apart in my hands but it powered up and everything appears to be working. I'll let you know if it stays up and running! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 The cooling unit plugs into the top of the rubber junction block on on the line-in side of your machine. The four wires on the line filter only protect the logic board and transformer. That's why the display goes out when you remove one wire. In fact, that's the way to kill power to your logic board if you need to change it out. I would do as Cajun suggests and disconnect your light ballast IF your lights only work when the door is closed. If they are on at all times then you aren't relying on a logic-level relay to turn them on and that isn't your GFI issue. What you might have is a bad transformer to the logic board or a broken/damaged wire that's grounding out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 All that information helps for any future problems I might have. I don't recall if the lights turn off when the door is opened but this has solved the problem for now. The validator isn't working either and giving an optic sensor flash code but I think it was pre-existing and unrelated - no bills in the box. Oh joy... As long as I am potentially looking at a transformer/ballast replacement has anyone inexpensively replaced there is with LEDs? I've done it on a couple snack machines but not a drink machine yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunCandy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I have put a single led light like what goes into ceilings and light up machine great. I simply screwed it to the top inner panel with a self-tapping screw and ran power to power wires for ballast. Rmorris taught me that trick. cajun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 What like a 30 inch bar pointed downward like a snack machine or a long one down the center? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunCandy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 What like a 30 inch bar pointed downward like a snack machine or a long one down the center? it is round, goes into a house with recess ceiling lights. I'm baking right now, sooo! cajun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allprovending Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Something else to keep in mind is my old Coke tech in Texas told me those GFI's go bad after a while, don't know if that's true or not but I'm assuming he knows what he is talking about since he has been a tech with Coke for almost 20 years. Anyways what he did was just cut the GFI off and put a plug on the end of it. I generally replace it with a whole new cord that has the GFI since I usually have a few extra ones on my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allprovending Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 FYI if you decide to get a whole new GFI cord make sure you get the right one. I have attached pics of the 2 different power cords that I just took. The black one is used on most of the older machines and the white one is used on newer machines. I always keep a few extra on my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allprovending Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 ballast and transformers are both easy to replace. I had a bad transformer one time that was frying my logic boards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 So we're clear the gfi I'm referring to is on the outlet my machine is plugged into but I probably will add one to the cord here since this account is prone to electrical surges. It's a great account but the machine takes a mild beating from all the traffic and elements. Cajun I think I'll try your simple LED bulb here. All I need is enough light to show its on. They're not picky. Thanks for the responses everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunCandy Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Yep, I understood about the gfi outlet on wall. I had a ballast doing the same thing to me, is why I mentioned about unplugging the power to ballast. Light I'm talking about at Lowes. http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=65050-3-73194&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=50226151&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 cajun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allprovending Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Oh ok.....the outlet, I thought you were referring to the cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted November 24, 2015 Author Share Posted November 24, 2015 Cajun, safe to assume you're eliminating the transformer as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CajunCandy Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Cajun, safe to assume you're eliminating the transformer as well? Yes! The 110 volt going to transformer is what I use to power up the light. Simply. cajun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimsweeper Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 I ended up doing something similar to that just with some hardware I had lying around the garage. The wiring running to the transformer was pretty small gauge and I don't know how much the transformer ramps up the power so Im a little concerned about under powering the fixture. The smart way would be to check it with a multimeter but I didn't have one with me and this is an extremely ghetto fix to get me through the next few weeks until I take the machine out of service for the dead of winter. Anyway, I wired in a 65 watt equivalent LED flood lamp and hung it from the top of the inside of the door. It only uses 9 watts and looks to be putting off a decent amount of light without any trouble. I can't read the input or the output rating of the transformer without taking it off the door. Anyone have any knowledge of that? Yes I know I've gone about this lazily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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