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DixieNarco Stuck Switches


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Hey guys,

So todays questions is about Dixie Narco's stupid design on their pre-membrane selection switches. All of my DNs have the older style selection switches which go bolted on to a metal bracket support and have a harness of quickconnects and also have small white plastic covers that press the selection switch in when you press the clear plastic selection button. In several of my machines Ive noticed the SS# error indicating a stuck selection switch so today I messed around at one of my accounts. I took the nuts and screw off of a "stuck switch" and pressed the selection switch button with my finger. After letting go, the button props back up and the selection switch test in the menu stops reading the selection. I put the button back with the plastic laminate sheet and put the nuts back on to find that the menu was reading it as a stuck selection. I took it out again and no problem. This means that the problem is being caused by the white plastic cover. Why did this design even make it to production haha. I carry some spare parts so I put in a different plastic from another switch and no more stuck selection. What else is there to do? The switch isnt bad, the plastic just gets old and crappy and i guess it presses the switch.

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Unfortunately, I have to say that the 501E was a good machine.  Every machine is going to have a "tick" that annoys someone.  Even the newest 501E is going on 15 years old so I would have to cut them some slack with regards to plastic going brittle over time.   In my experience, it was the membrane style selection panels that gave the most hassle.  Maybe that got buttoned up in the years since I've had my hands in one of Dixie's vendors.

 

Just pay close attention to alignment when those are installed and remember that every machines has failures from time to time.  If they didn't, I would have been out of work a long time ago.

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7 hours ago, tismael56 said:

Hey guys,

So todays questions is about Dixie Narco's stupid design on their pre-membrane selection switches. All of my DNs have the older style selection switches which go bolted on to a metal bracket support and have a harness of quickconnects and also have small white plastic covers that press the selection switch in when you press the clear plastic selection button. In several of my machines Ive noticed the SS# error indicating a stuck selection switch so today I messed around at one of my accounts. I took the nuts and screw off of a "stuck switch" and pressed the selection switch button with my finger. After letting go, the button props back up and the selection switch test in the menu stops reading the selection. I put the button back with the plastic laminate sheet and put the nuts back on to find that the menu was reading it as a stuck selection. I took it out again and no problem. This means that the problem is being caused by the white plastic cover. Why did this design even make it to production haha. I carry some spare parts so I put in a different plastic from another switch and no more stuck selection. What else is there to do? The switch isnt bad, the plastic just gets old and crappy and i guess it presses the switch.

Yeah you're bashing a pretty dated machine, possibly the most reliable soda vendor of it's era and possibly the model with the most vends of any other model soda machine.  The v21 is excellent but it came out toward the end of the 501e.

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Yup. A complaint about a very reliable machine with very reliable parts including those "springs" as they are called.  The name is dumb but that is the job they do and they will wear out as any part will.  But complaining about a worn part as old as that one is as dumb as the name DN gave it.  Just order some and keep them ready to install.  Also remember that the bracket the switch is mounted to can be bent by rough use or by vandals.  You also have to put the switch spacer on correctly and not backwards.  Speaking of those clear spacers, they are different between DN and Royal machines even though they look similar.

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@Vendo Mike @AngryChris@AZVendor

Yeah i get the machine is old and such but if I'm not mistaken, Royal came out with the g3 somewhere close to that time. What really sucks is that Dixie Narco (nor Crane) ever came out with a Vend Sensor that would have really made the 501e a better machine. Also my bashing is not unfounded because out of the stacker machines ( which I believe the 501e was the last from DN), its the worst. The G3 is way better in terms of package vending and package sizes, 12 columns instead of 9, and a vend sensor. The V21 is great and on par with the G3.  However, im not planning on junking them yet, first gotta squeeze the life outta them🤑.

I didnt know they were called springs so thanks for that. Now I can buy those and replace👍

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They will out-work and out-live your Royals and their simplicity runs rings around the Royals.  If you have equal experience with both you should appreciate not having to mess with space to sales, not having to adjust drop sensors nor needing to change package size rods. The DN is still better in those respects.  And they have about 1000 more product vend test reports too. Their only nuisance problem is the weakness of running 5v DC through a 125v AC motor switch which will cause issues.  I could fix any problem on either model so through my experience I prefer the DN.

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Posted (edited)

@AZVendor

I'm not going to debate you over preferences although all my DNs require STS and even that programming is bad because you have to wait for the scrolling message to stop and no way to do it quickly where as Royals you simply toggle the columns for each selection. Having a vend sensor is definitely better than not having one and I much rather prefer changing a single rod to change between bottles and cans than having to carry different shims, spacers and cams. The chain assembly is another superior aspect because you can have one replacement for whenever it goes bad rather than having to have motor switches, motors, cams for each selection. Case in point, I would rather put in my dollar into a G3 than a 501E👍.

 

Im curious as to which issues you refer to with the motor switches. What has happened in your experience, do they wear out quickly?

Also, i tried looking for the springs as you called them and didnt have any luck. Do you know where I can buy them or would i need the entire button assembly?

Edited by tismael56
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I only have one g3 and I'm glad.  I probably have well over a dozen merlin 4s though.  And probably over 40 501E or equivalent models.  I have gone back and forth over the years but, in the end,i vote the 501e as the most reliable vendor before the v21 became mainstream.

I have had a fair share of drop sensor issues.  The 501e is simple but it works well.  The royals can confuse even veterans at times because they have revised the electronics so many times.  I don't know why you or anyone else would ever mess with STS on a dixie but the royal is definitely the superior machine when it comes to sts.  On a dixie,I keep it simple.  To date, I still get fits with royals sometimes, but dixie's are so simple to diagnose and fix, and that's why they get my vote.  Plus the parts seem more durable.  I have probably replaced over 20 royal vend motors over the years (all merlin 4) and only a couple E motors, despite having so many more dixie's.

They all have pros and cons, but you'd be hard pressed to find many established vendors to agree that the 501e is the worst stack vendor.  Given how long ago it was designed, it's amazing that it can still vend most things that any other stack vendor can vend, and adding a card reader with dex info is usually a breeze.  I will ditch my vmax and 650/g3 machines before my 501e machines.  It's all preference though.

 

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Yeah some people just like different things, ill agree there. However, do you know where I can find the springs as AZvendor called them?  Or do you know how i could make them? If the switches are good, id rather not replace the actual switch.

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The E model motor switches will eventually begin to display motor not at home errors or not complete a vend or even, at times, drop a can when you close the door.  These issues are almost always a bad motor switch.  They go bad as the terminals inside corrode from the moisture.  That corrosion interferes with the 5v DC that the logic board runs through the switch and creates all of those issues. When it happens it's best to replace all the motor switches at one time as others will begin to show those issues too.

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  • 1 month later...
On 4/16/2021 at 11:44 AM, AZVendor said:

The E model motor switches will eventually begin to display motor not at home errors or not complete a vend or even, at times, drop a can when you close the door.  These issues are almost always a bad motor switch.  They go bad as the terminals inside corrode from the moisture.  That corrosion interferes with the 5v DC that the logic board runs through the switch and creates all of those issues. When it happens it's best to replace all the motor switches at one time as others will begin to show those issues too.

This maybe a stupid question but when replacing motor switches would it be a good idea to use electric grease to prevent corrosion? 

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Just now, AZVendor said:

No. That will slow the movement of the switch arm and gum up the switch contacts.  It would wreak havoc with the machine. 

I meant just at the connection. 
It wouldn’t stop moisture from creeping in to the switch arm tho. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Snickers said:

I meant just at the connection. 
It wouldn’t stop moisture from creeping in to the switch arm tho. 

You could but that’s not generally how they fail. I personally don’t (and I’m the type to dielectric everything I touch on a car).

Edited by orsd
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I've never gone that far with it.  The machine ran the first 20 years without any.  Just something else to wipe off your fingers when you're working on the vendor.   The switches fail after building carbon on the contacts after years and years of vending.  Simply replace the switches and, if you can, clean the harness contacts at the switch.  

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