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960 D froozen food machine-another clue


chris in bc

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RECAP:

I wrote about a AP 960 frozen food machine with a CAB SENSOR issue as reported by the tower's display last week. I switched out the sensor still the same problem, the unit was not cooling.

I opened both doors, got down on my hands and knees and on the right, top, corner BELOW the slide I did notice a chunk of ice. This is an entry point for "some sort of line" I believe this line comes from the condenser.

1) Before I pull out the cold pack what shall I check for?-provide a point form list

2) after I pull out the cold pack what shall I check/look for? provide a point form step by step list.

CURRENTLY;

The 960's lights are on-but I feel no cold air inside the cabinet. This machine was running for about 6 months-until this problem started.

I have a control tower!

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Chris,

 

Will the selections in the frozen machine still vend?  Does the baffle door open and close with each vend cycle?  Can you perform a motor test on the baffle door and manually make it open and close on command?  Have you ever run a manual defrost cycle?

 

I must also ask you if the red plug of the evaporator harness is fully seated into the top of the power supply on the left side of the frozen cabinet.  This harness goes to the evaporator fan, defrost heater and the defrost bi-metal (sensor).  Because you aren't getting any errors of defrost errors I wonder if this plug is making good contact.  I have previously posted the procedure to remove and diagnose this unit in your last thread about this machine.  I have copied and pasted the same information here in this reply.  If you wish to call me tomorrow about this machine, my number is 602-696-2826.  I believe we might be in the same time zone as you since Arizona is on West Coast time right now, so you can call me after 9 am tomorrow.

 

"It sounds like your evaporator is frozen solid.  The ice on the line into the cooling unit indicates it had been running nonstop for a long time, usually because of the frozen evap.  You should have also had several Defrost Errors.  Open the inner door and press the door switch then release it.  Do you year the air duct flap in the cooling unit close (a tinny sound)?  Press the door switch and do you have any airflow from the back of the machine?  Release the switch and do you hear the flap close again?  If there is no air flow and there is ice on the freon line into the unit then your evaporator is definitely frozen.  This is most likely due to a failed evaporator fan.  You will have to pull the unit out to diagnose it.

 

Turn off the machine and tower and disconnect all harnesses from the power box on the left.  Remove the power box (two screws at the top then lift it off of the lower mounts) then remove the vent screen and the two or four screws holding the condensing unit in place (two down into the cabinet floor through the front of the unit's base and maybe one in each end of the base).  Route the door switch wires out of the way to the right so they don't get cut when pulling the unit out.  Begin to pull on the sides of the unit to break it free from the machine, rocking it back and forth, slamming the base back in with your foot, anything to break the seal.  This can be a royal pain in the golpher and you might have to work it for awhile.  The top seal of the evaporator can stick to the styrofoam air plenum above it.  If you can't break it loose, then pull out the bottom shelf and using a straight edge from the inside of the styro air plenum, run it between the styro surface and the vinyl seal to break the seal.  You may damage the seal but DO NOT damage the styrofoam!  When you get the unit out you will have to disassemble it to inspect the fan motor.  If this is getting too far into the repair for you then you need to call a repair tech.

 

Once you get it out, if it's frozen then it has to thaw. When defrosted remove the evaporator cover (where styro is). There is one screw on each side as well as one screw holding the compressor cover to the evap cover. Remove the white foam block between the evap and the air duct. Remove 2 screws on air duct and lift it out. Now check if the squirrel cage motor spins easily and freely - if not it needs to be replaced. Pull it out, regardless, after disconnecting its harness.

Make sure all water has drained from the evap box. Make sure the heavy copper wire from the drain tube is secured under the end of the evaporator to heat the drain. Wipe out grime from the inside of the evap box and run hot water through the drain hose. Reinstall the (new) fan motor and properly route the harness through the hole in the evap bracket using the original bushing. Install the air duct and 2 screws. Install the foam block.

If the orig fan was good, then you need to have the unit recharged. If the fan was the problem, then inspect the gasket on the bottom of the styro block - it must be intact. Reinstall the styro block and secure the metal cover with 5 screws. The top gasket must be intact with no gaps. Reinstall the unit in the mach in reverse order, start it up, and see if it works."

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