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Replacing motor and ballast on CB500


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Have quite a few CB300/CB500s with bad ballasts and broken motors. 

Does any one know of a guide to change a motor? I assume one would have to remove the drop tray for the rear columns and remove the case shelf for the front motors? I wish USI had a YouTube video for this since I don’t want to leave a customers machine worse than I found it and I really don’t want to pay the local repairman $200. He has a right to make money but I I don’t want to pay it. 

I also need to bypass ballasts for those difficult to find 18” T8 LED tubes. I think it’s located in the box opposite the coin box and the harnesses just need to be cut and reconnected to provide 110V to the sockets?

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It's too bad you aren't willing to pay a pro to fix your machine.  Please don't be a typical cheap vendor.  It takes money to make money.  It would behoove you to remember that.  All you need to do is watch what he does and then you'll know what the @#&* is going on.  It does sound like he's a bit pricey unless he had to come a long way to your machine, but us professionals have many years of experience doing this (32 for me) which is why we know what we are doing.  This is shown in the following FREE advice that you are looking for.

T8 bulbs can be found at any lighting store or Grainger.  Are you saying that even Home Depot doesn't have them any longer?  If you need a bunch of them since there are two in each machine you can get a case of 15 from D&S, Vendors Exchange, Happ Controls, etc.  You also need one new FS-2 starter for each new light.  If you have replaced lights and they don't work it's because you didn't change the starter at the same time.  DOH!  

To replace a motor you have to empty the front and rear columns where you want to change the motor. Remove the 1" tall cover that goes across the front of the stack to expose the rods that go through the rotors front to back.  Loosen the wiring to the motor you will replace and unplug it.  Firmly twist and pull on the head of the rod that goes through the rotors you are working on to free it and pull it out.  Pull it only as far as needed to remove the motor and rotor you are replacing (all the way out if doing a front motor.)  Be aware that there is a black bushing in the back of each rotor that you CAN NOT lose.  When the rod is pulled out you then lift the rear of the rotor up and pull the assembly out.  

You pull the motor off the rotor and push (force) the new motor into the rotor - position doesn't matter.  The installation is the reverse but note that there is a locating pin on the bottom face of the motor that fits in a hole in the stack.  This is why you can't lift a motor/rotor out by lifting from the front.  The hardest part is lining up the rod to go through both rotors, the middle stack and into the hole in the rear stack.  It takes perseverance but the rod will eventually find it's hole and the rod head will go flush against the front stack - if it's not flush then it's not installed properly.  Reconnect the motor harness and properly secure it as it was to begin with and test the motor.  Reinstall the rod cover. 

And that's what my customer's get for $65 if they already have the motor.  A bargain, don't you think?  I'm sorry but I can't help being sarcastic with this post.

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I hope I wasn’t disparaging repairmen. They work hard and earn their money for their knowledge and expertise. Instead I was expressing my desire to learn how to do it myself. 

Thank you AZVendor for writing out the steps for me. 

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