Upgrading to MDB for CC usage

[Mike4]

Newbie here…. Please educate me. 
 

What is the main difference between upgrading your machines to MDB by using a conversion kit like those offered by capital vending as opposed to using a new INONE board? 
 

I have an older AP 6600 and AP 113 that I would like to have readers on. 
 

Also have a few single priced soda machines may want to do something with. 
 

Mike

[AngryChris]

MDB stands for Multi-Drop Bus.  It is a protocol just like USB on computers and it refers to the harnessing/connections used on the machine to connect certain components such as bill acceptors, coin mechs, card readers, and others... just like how you can hook up USB devices to a computer.  There are two ways to have MDB on a machine.  Either the board alerady uses MDB or you have to use a converter to change the signal to MDB.

The converters that capital vending sells simply convert the signal.  Those will have a small box with several wires coming out.  They essentially hijack the 110v coming from your coin mech and the 24v coming from an open plug on the board.  Your logic/pulse components you have connected are now rendered useless and you MUST use the MDB connection coming from the converter to connect all of your components.  You'll have to get an MDB mech and MDB validator and of course your MDB card reader if you want that connected too.  The board is still a 25+ year old board that can't understand much of the new stuff and, due to the way the converter works, the machine can be a little slow with paying out change.  To me, it's like putting lipstick on a pig.

The InOne board, as well as Vendor's Exchange and some other lesser-known boards, are complete replacements.  They replace your old board with a new one.  In the InOne boards as well as the newer VE boards (you may have to specify if you want this on the VE boards), you can use your old components because the board can communicate in multiple protocols.  You can keep your existing mech and validator and just connect the card reader via MDB if you want.  That means that, potentially, the InOne kit can be the same price as the converter kit since you don't have to buy an MDB mech or validator.  Moreover, the InOne kit is up-to-date with technology so it can allow you to see sales reports via your card reader as well as do special things like setup dual pricing or add a drop sensor (which can be included in the kits).

Overall, I always recommend getting a new conversion kit from InOne or VE.  When you scale up with machines, you really want those sales reports so you can pre-kit, which means you can put everything in containers to bring to the machine and restock as needed, rather than showing up and having to see what sold and figure it out from there.  The boards are 100x better than the conversion kits IMO.  I will be replacing doors on some of my old APs next year and using InOne or VE doors which replaces the entire door, board, slide-out tray, and some other parts and replaces the whole thing.  It makes the front of the machine look brand new (because the door is brand new) and includes everything you need to operate.  The only thing you have to do is clean up the inside of the machine and the sides.  If you're good, you can make the whole machine look new/like-new.

[Mike4]

51 minutes ago, AngryChris said:

MDB stands for Multi-Drop Bus.  It is a protocol just like USB on computers and it refers to the harnessing/connections used on the machine to connect certain components such as bill acceptors, coin mechs, card readers, and others... just like how you can hook up USB devices to a computer.  There are two ways to have MDB on a machine.  Either the board alerady uses MDB or you have to use a converter to change the signal to MDB.

The converters that capital vending sells simply convert the signal.  Those will have a small box with several wires coming out.  They essentially hijack the 110v coming from your coin mech and the 24v coming from an open plug on the board.  Your logic/pulse components you have connected are now rendered useless and you MUST use the MDB connection coming from the converter to connect all of your components.  You'll have to get an MDB mech and MDB validator and of course your MDB card reader if you want that connected too.  The board is still a 25+ year old board that can't understand much of the new stuff and, due to the way the converter works, the machine can be a little slow with paying out change.  To me, it's like putting lipstick on a pig.

The InOne board, as well as Vendor's Exchange and some other lesser-known boards, are complete replacements.  They replace your old board with a new one.  In the InOne boards as well as the newer VE boards (you may have to specify if you want this on the VE boards), you can use your old components because the board can communicate in multiple protocols.  You can keep your existing mech and validator and just connect the card reader via MDB if you want.  That means that, potentially, the InOne kit can be the same price as the converter kit since you don't have to buy an MDB mech or validator.  Moreover, the InOne kit is up-to-date with technology so it can allow you to see sales reports via your card reader as well as do special things like setup dual pricing or add a drop sensor (which can be included in the kits).

Overall, I always recommend getting a new conversion kit from InOne or VE.  When you scale up with machines, you really want those sales reports so you can pre-kit, which means you can put everything in containers to bring to the machine and restock as needed, rather than showing up and having to see what sold and figure it out from there.  The boards are 100x better than the conversion kits IMO.  I will be replacing doors on some of my old APs next year and using InOne or VE doors which replaces the entire door, board, slide-out tray, and some other parts and replaces the whole thing.  It makes the front of the machine look brand new (because the door is brand new) and includes everything you need to operate.  The only thing you have to do is clean up the inside of the machine and the sides.  If you're good, you can make the whole machine look new/like-new.

Wow! Great information. Thank you. I know exactly what I need to do now to move forward. I may be looking at the new doors down the road as well. 
 

I may need to replace a keypad or two in the process. The 6600 feels like your not even pressing anything when you push on the button but that’s another top.   thanks again!

Mike

[AngryChris]

2 hours ago, Mike4 said:

Wow! Great information. Thank you. I know exactly what I need to do now to move forward. I may be looking at the new doors down the road as well. 
 

I may need to replace a keypad or two in the process. The 6600 feels like your not even pressing anything when you push on the button but that’s another top.   thanks again!

Mike

The 6600 is a good 30'ish years old.  Old, but built with quality.