ruff84 Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Went and got the machine today. All worked ok, so i thought. I have the coinco coin mech filled with change, a coinco Bill validator Model BP2BX also connected. First few times i put .50 cents in it went well. Tried dollars and took them in a few inches and spit them back out. Now BV cycles upon plugging the machine in and now nothing, not lights on at all. Now it is not taking my change either just spits it right back through the coin return. The machine was extremely dirty when i got it, but i used compressed air and cleaned it up. Coin mech issue or BV issue? I only have spare mars bill and coin mechs on hand so i don't think those are interchangable (i am not really sure) Also it is saying soft 67131-4 across the led screen and i have no idea what that means. So far the royals are hard beast to tame compared to the vendo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Went and got the machine today. All worked ok, so i thought. I have the coinco coin mech filled with change, a coinco Bill validator Model BP2BX also connected. First few times i put .50 cents in it went well. Tried dollars and took them in a few inches and spit them back out. Now BV cycles upon plugging the machine in and now nothing, not lights on at all. Now it is not taking my change either just spits it right back through the coin return. The machine was extremely dirty when i got it, but i used compressed air and cleaned it up. Coin mech issue or BV issue? I only have spare mars bill and coin mechs on hand so i don't think those are interchangable (i am not really sure) Also it is saying soft 67131-4 across the led screen and i have no idea what that means. So far the royals are hard beast to tame compared to the vendo's. Here is the link to the 660 manual www.royalvendors.com Coinco BAs don't handle all that dust very well as their sensors face upwards and compressed air will blow that micro fine dust everywhere. It doesn't surprise me that the BA doesn't work. This machine will accept a Mars BA and coin mech - I've got the same machine right down to identical graphics and I've got a VN2500 series BA in there. I'm not familiar with your error code (I get 61112-7 when I open and close the door momentarily) but it certainly couldn't hurt to start with some clean acceptors.. Check your manual - you'll find a customer support number upfront if all else fails. I've never had to call them but I've heard they're very helpful. The manual you need is this one GIII (115 VAC 60 Hz, serial numbers beginning 201134 and lower) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. Reason. I asked about the Mars bill validator is because the coinco has 2 wires coming out that plug in. Compared the the mars 2501 which only has the 1? Are the mars bv and coin mechs superior to the coinco? I am going to order refurbished of one or the other today. I prefer the the Mars validators - the mechs seem to be about even. If you're ordering a validator, ask about the proper harness. Tell them what you're currently using and the machine you have and you should be set. These harnesses run about $15 Usually when the validator spits the bills back, it's because the sensors are dirty and the Coincos seem more sensitive to this than the Meis. A dirty coin path in the top of the mech can also cause problems as that's where the sensors are. Ps. Read that manual while you've still got that machine handy - you're at least going to have to reset your pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 After talking to a service tech at royal, it appears I need a new or refurbished control board. Suck cause I need to have this machine out In a location thursday. What is the quickest way to get a new board? vendors exchange d & s? Somewhere else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 After talking to a service tech at royal, it appears I need a new or refurbished control board. Suck cause I need to have this machine out In a location thursday. What is the quickest way to get a new board? vendors exchange d & s? Somewhere else? VE repairs control boards starting at $50 plus parts. They're in Cleveland - 800-321-2311. Walta's in St Louis - I don't know if he repairs contol boards but he might know somebody locally Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 VE said they don't rebuild this model of control boards, so off to D&S to be fixed. I also printed the manual off and have been going through it while i wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Is your machine constantly displaying the numbers (which is the software version), or does it scroll to any other letters. If stuck at the software version, then it does need a board. If it scrolls to other parts of the programming, even when the door is closed, then your door switch isn't telling the machine to go into the vend mode and instead is staying in the service mode. Also, the door lights won't come on unless the door is closed and the machine switches into vend mode. This machine uses only MDB changers and validators. A Mars 2501 is not MDB and won't work. MDB components are 24V only (some show 34V). Don't be afraid of this machine, it is very good and very versatile. Definitely read the manual and understand how the programming works. The Space-to-sales is the hardest part for most people to understand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 With the door open it would constantly scroll the software version and nothing else. If I closed the door then it would say sale xxxxx. Which i would assume is the total amount of vends on the machine. After talking to the royal techs, i went out and unplugged the Coin mech and BV to see if the message would change to cold drinks or ice cold. Didn't change the message, so he said it was a bad board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yes, they are probably correct that the board is bad. If only those 2 things happen, sofware version when door open and sales figure only when door is closed then the board is bad. If the door is closed and the display changes from sales figure to another part of the programming then it could still be a door switch. Were you able to press the mode button on the board and enter the programming then move through the programming? Also, keep in mind that you might still have a coin mech or validator problem. The only drawback to MDB is that the components are daisy-chained together like USB on acomputer. The blown board could have been caused by the c/m or val. though they can fail on their own. Remember that any time you make or break connections with c/m, vals, and boards power must be off. When you put the board back in, don't connect the c/m or val. Power the machine up with just the board and confirm that you can work the programming properly such as pricing and test vending. Don't forget that you will have to reprogram your Space-to-sales or select a pre-programmed setup. Then pwr off, connect the c/m only, and test the machine with coins. Then pwr off, connect the validator (between the board and the c/m) and test coins and bills. Be prepared at any sign of a problem with either the c/m or val to shut off the power before you blow another board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yes, they are probably correct that the board is bad. If only those 2 things happen, sofware version when door open and sales figure only when door is closed then the board is bad. If the door is closed and the display changes from sales figure to another part of the programming then it could still be a door switch. Were you able to press the mode button on the board and enter the programming then move through the programming? Also, keep in mind that you might still have a coin mech or validator problem. The only drawback to MDB is that the components are daisy-chained together like USB on acomputer. The blown board could have been caused by the c/m or val. though they can fail on their own. Remember that any time you make or break connections with c/m, vals, and boards power must be off. When you put the board back in, don't connect the c/m or val. Power the machine up with just the board and confirm that you can work the programming properly such as pricing and test vending. Don't forget that you will have to reprogram your Space-to-sales or select a pre-programmed setup. Then pwr off, connect the c/m only, and test the machine with coins. Then pwr off, connect the validator (between the board and the c/m) and test coins and bills. Be prepared at any sign of a problem with either the c/m or val to shut off the power before you blow another board. Yeah, i tried to go into service mode and pressing the button did nothing. So that to me was a big give away that something was wrong with the board. I always unplug the machine if i am messing with anything electrical. None of the old equipment will be going back in unless they are refurbed first. The coinco bill pro bv is on the way to get refurbed as I type this, and i already have a rebuilt mars coin mech waiting at home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I hope whoever you take your Coinco and Mars stuff to will just test them for you and pronounce them good or bad. There should not be any charge for that. Or do you have to send stuff away for repair, no one local to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 No one I have found local in central il Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Frustration!!!!!!!!! Called d&s vending about my control board. It got there last Thursday and it will be atleast 1 more week till its ready to get shipped back to me. Meanwhile my first real account waits on me. There is another royal g3 about 80 miles from me and in perfect working condition for $300. Only problem is I don't have access to a truck with a lift gate or a helper. I have access to a trailer but my truck doesn't have a hitch. Plus I am low on funds.... But could swing it if I had to. What should I do? Wait another week for the refurbed board or go get another machine. This location was expecting a machine last week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 I'd pay a machine mover to go get it and drop it at your location. You'd have to do this with your existing machine anyway as you can't move it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 How do I find a machine mover? I can't find anyone close to me 61938 Is the zip code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 you might goggle it http://chicago.illinoiscircle.com/cat-7414-0.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Ruff, Call D&S and ask them if they will ship you an advance exchange board overnight for you to put back in your machine. As much as D&S begs for control board repair business I'm very disappointed in their delay in repairing one single board. They have always been quick to ship parts that I order, but I have never sent them a board for repair. This may mean that they had to send it to someone else for this particular repair. In order to repair a board, they either have to have a jig designed just to bench-test all functions of this board or they need an actual machine that they test them in. They also have to have all the board design schematics in order to repair them. But call them again and ask for the advance exchange. It will cost more than the normal repair rate, but you get a board faster. If they have a board in stock to send you, they will keep your board and repair it for their inventory. If D&S can't do an advance exchange, and if they still have your unrepaired board that they haven't performed any work on, then you can ask them (after verifying you can get an adv. exch. elsewhere) to send it back to you (you'll be out the freight both ways). You can then hang up and call Betson or S.Thomas and Assoc. in Texas for an advance exchange. If you're successful in this venture, then when you receive your adv. exch., send your original bad board that you get back from D&S to whomever you obtain your adv. exch. from to complete the transaction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 The price of the advance exchange was to much for me to handle, so i have to wait it out and hope they are done soon. They received it March 7th so hopefuly it will be done soon. My bill validator is on it's way back from technivend, although it's useless until the board gets here. I will probably call D & S tomorrow and see where it's at, and the timeframe they think it will be done. How long does this kind of thing usually take? Normally i am pretty satisfied with their service, however they never return Email and a lot of the time it's impossible for me to call during their work hours. Technivend has been awesome so far, they let me know when they recieved the BV what was wrong with it and are getting it back to me in a timely manner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 20, 2013 Author Share Posted March 20, 2013 Got my bill validator in today- Technivend is awesome and i will continue to do business with them. Called D & S yesterday but the repair dept was closed, called back today and they had to call me back to tell me a time frame when the board would come back to me. About 6 hours later they finally did and it is going to be completed by NEXT FRIDAY possibly Monday the 29th or april 2nd. Over 3 weeks to fix this board, they said it needed a special piece (not sure what piece because i had a friend call while i am at work.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ruff84 Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 Well, got the board yesterday and installed and everything works like it should. Now i have to find a few more flavor labels, found a few but they all want atleast $5.00 a piece for them. Trying to hunt some down on line i can just print out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Well, got the board yesterday and installed and everything works like it should. Now i have to find a few more flavor labels, found a few but they all want atleast $5.00 a piece for them. Trying to hunt some down on line i can just print out. If you can't find the "can style" labels, you can just cut a can in half and use that - kind of a poor man's vision vendor. Halle - friggin' - lujah on the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 ruff, I have correct flavor labels in stock for most flavors and in most sizes. Standard flavor strips in the 2 most common sizes are just .45 each. If you're interested let me know what flavors, whether can or bottle, quantity of each and post a picture of the door so I will know what size you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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