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V720 10 select not cooling


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Do you have a frozen evaporator?  This can be caused by low freon, an air leak, bad valves in the compressor, a bad evaporator fan. 

 

The first thing is to know if the door switch works to put the machine into the vend mode, after which the refrigeration will start.  You can test this by going into the service mode then closing the door and see if the machine goes into the vend mode and displays zeros or a single price. 

 

If this works then you need to go to the Test menu and press select button 6 to see CnPr on the display.  Now press 6 again to start the refrigeration unit.  The display should show ON on the display.  If you see ON and neither the compressor or fan run then you might have a bad refrigeration relay, a wiring problem with the relay, or a bad logic board. 

 

Now check to see that the compressor AND the condensing fan in front of it are running.  If they are both running then follow the freon line up to the right corner of the evaporator and see if the last 2 inches of it get frosty just before the line goes into the evaporator.  If it does not then you are low on freon.  If the compressor runs but the condenser fan doesn't then your fan is bad.  This is also shown by feeling heat radiating off the front of the condenser.  If the fan runs but the compressor doesn't then you have a bad compressor and this can be exhibited by the sound of the compressor clicking on and then clicking off without actually starting. 

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If you are in the CnPr program, that is a refrigeration relay test so it will turn the compressor and condensing fan on for a couple of minutes only. Pressing switch 6 again will turn the relay off. If you don't do that it will time out. If you get power to the fan and/or the compressor during this test then that confirms that the relay and logic board are ok.

During normal closed door operation the cond fan won't turn on and off quickly and you won't hear the fan "kick on and off". If you're hearing something physically clicking on and then off, that's a bad compressor.

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Okay, that is what I assumed. Though looking at my troubleshooting guide for the machine, probable causes could be - Defective overload relay, compressor motor rocked, defective capacitor and/or defective PTC relay. Is it possible that it is one of these problems before I replace that compressor?

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I sent you a PM.  The troubleshooting guide always lists the start relay and capacitor and a locked rotor as possibilities, but the cooling decks aren't really for a user to diagnose.  It takes someone with experience to really know what's going on.  The compressor can be ohmed out to see if it's either shorted to ground or if the resistance of the start or run windings are too high.  Any of those things mean the compressor is bad. 

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Newer Embraco compressor units are wired so the fan will only run when the compressor runs. So if you are using the test relay feature in the menu and you only hear the fan run for a few seconds then the compressor is short cycling. You can remove the power panel at the bottom and unplug the compressor and then plug it into a extension cord and see if the same happens. If it does then the compressor is locked up.

 

Also Embraco's are notorious for the wires within the cap where the start and overload relay are to overheat and burn the wiring up. I have found this is because there are to many wires within this cap and they overheat and melt wires causing them to short. 

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