RaleighNC Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Hey Guys, I am having an issue in my CB700 where i’m getting heavy ice build up on the part (condenser? evaporator?) that circulates the air through the cabinet. I cleaned it off two weeks ago very carefully with a heat gun and it was perfectly clean and dry and now it’s starting to come back. Any idea what this could be? I’ve noticed it doesn’t cool as well when ice is blocking the air from coming out. Machine has 6”+ room away from wall. Pic attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 More pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Clean out your drain tube and make sure it drains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 5 minutes ago, AZVendor said: Clean out your drain tube and make sure it drains. Where is that found? And what is best way to clean it out -- detatch and run water through it? brush? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 It's probably just under the front of the evaporator. High pressure water or a long brush will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 On 2/25/2022 at 6:45 PM, AZVendor said: It's probably just under the front of the evaporator. High pressure water or a long brush will work. So i was pretty sure this worked, but apparently it didn’t. I cleaned out the hose and it was super clogged up with what appeared to be calcified or a rocky substance. i flushed it completely and trimmed the hose so there was no more loop and it would just drain directly into the pan. Came back today and the bottom third is iced up again. Any other ideas of what to check? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 (edited) Doh! You need the loop for an air gap. Regardless, you either have an air leak or low freon. Check the door seal and remember that the inner door can end up with bent hinges because of it's size or because the inner door gets caught on the cabinet when you open the main door. Make sure the delivery port door is there and not broken. Be sure that your t-handle snugs the door down well and, lastly, make sure the machine is level and that the door is square to the cabinet. I had to fix many of these monoliths in the past due to any or all of these issues. You might also have bad valves in the compressor if the accumulator is so cold it ices up. Edited March 14, 2022 by AZVendor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 7 minutes ago, AZVendor said: Doh! You need the loop for an air gap. Regardless, you either have an air leak or low freon. Check the door seal and remember that the inner door can end up with bent hinges because of it's size or because the inner door gets caught on the cabinet when you open the main door. Make sure the delivery port door is there and not broken. Be sure that your t-handle snugs the door down well and, lastly, make sure the machine is level and that the door is square to the cabinet. I had to fix many of these monoliths in the past due to any or all of these issues. You might also have bad valves in the compressor if the accumulator is so cold it ices up. Glad you mentioned that, I will put the loop back - LOL! The drain pan was bone dry and dirty though, so it didn't look like anything had drained in there in a long time. The door is extremely heavy as you mentioned and it's sagging a bit that I have to sort of lift up on the t-handle to get it over the hump to close. I will check out some of your suggestions and see what I can find! Regarding Freon levels, is there a PSI that it should be? I will have my tech check it out and see what reading we're getting since I don't have gauges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Okay, then you need a pallet jack to level the door. You first need to level the cabinet with a level on the cabinet edges only side to side and front to back on all four sides. Don't "lean it forward" to help products slide out. Then you have to put a pallet jack under the door when it's open 90 deg and barely lift it past the point of contact. Then you loosen the top door hinge and square the door up by lifting the door with the pallet jack until it's mosly level. Tighten the hinge bolts and then check for T-handle engagement. You'll probably have to adjust the cage nut up as well to match the new height of the threaded stud. Use lithium grease on the cage nut so the stud easily screws into the nut. This should seal your inner door if the main door becomes level. You might have to do it a couple of times to get it right. Your tech should know how to check the freon if he's a good, experienced tech. The freon should be at 18-20 psi on the low side when the cabinet is closed and the fans are operating properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 (edited) Thank you! I will give this a shot. Edited March 14, 2022 by RaleighNC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 4 hours ago, AZVendor said: Okay, then you need a pallet jack to level the door. You first need to level the cabinet with a level on the cabinet edges only side to side and front to back on all four sides. Don't "lean it forward" to help products slide out. Then you have to put a pallet jack under the door when it's open 90 deg and barely lift it past the point of contact. Then you loosen the top door hinge and square the door up by lifting the door with the pallet jack until it's mosly level. Tighten the hinge bolts and then check for T-handle engagement. You'll probably have to adjust the cage nut up as well to match the new height of the threaded stud. Use lithium grease on the cage nut so the stud easily screws into the nut. This should seal your inner door if the main door becomes level. You might have to do it a couple of times to get it right. Your tech should know how to check the freon if he's a good, experienced tech. The freon should be at 18-20 psi on the low side when the cabinet is closed and the fans are operating properly. Last question before I give this a shot on Wednesday when I'm on location. That top door hinge, is it possible it's worn out over the years and something I should maybe just order and replace? Or does it not typically go bad? I assume it's some sort of 1/2" bolt up there (not a phillip's head one) and a normal ratchet set will be able to loosen it up easily? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 The hinges don't usually go bad as they are made of heavy steel but there is a plastic or brass bushing in the top of the door so make sure that is still there. There should be no movement of the top of the door when the hinge is tight. If there is back and forth movement then the bushing might be missing. The door sag is common with this machine due to the extreme weight of the door (the heaviest in the business except for maybe a Rowe 448/548 or a National Grand Gourmet (both very outdated). The hinge uses standard socket sizes and there is a locatiing philips screw that will probably not go back in its hole once you adjust the door - no big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 14, 2022 Author Share Posted March 14, 2022 2 minutes ago, AZVendor said: The hinges don't usually go bad as they are made of heavy steel but there is a plastic or brass bushing in the top of the door so make sure that is still there. There should be no movement of the top of the door when the hinge is tight. If there is back and forth movement then the bushing might be missing. The door sag is common with this machine due to the extreme weight of the door (the heaviest in the business except for maybe a Rowe 448/548 or a National Grand Gourmet (both very outdated). The hinge uses standard socket sizes and there is a locatiing philips screw that will probably not go back in its hole once you adjust the door - no big deal. Thank you so much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tblake05 Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 12 hours ago, RaleighNC said: Yep and if the door is sagging, it may not be closing or sealing correctly causing your ice up issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 16, 2022 Author Share Posted March 16, 2022 On 3/14/2022 at 7:01 PM, AZVendor said: The hinges don't usually go bad as they are made of heavy steel but there is a plastic or brass bushing in the top of the door so make sure that is still there. There should be no movement of the top of the door when the hinge is tight. If there is back and forth movement then the bushing might be missing. The door sag is common with this machine due to the extreme weight of the door (the heaviest in the business except for maybe a Rowe 448/548 or a National Grand Gourmet (both very outdated). The hinge uses standard socket sizes and there is a locatiing philips screw that will probably not go back in its hole once you adjust the door - no big deal. I’m in front of machine now. i have the cabinet completely leveled but i’m not seeing what part to adjust up here. Any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 (edited) Loosen the three bolts on the cabinet end of the hinge and push the hinge back toward the wall to raise the right side of the cabinet door. Do this with the door at 90 degrees. You have it open 180 degrees in the photo. Edited March 16, 2022 by AZVendor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaleighNC Posted March 16, 2022 Author Share Posted March 16, 2022 57 minutes ago, AZVendor said: Loosen the three bolts on the cabinet end of the hinge and push the hinge back toward the wall to raise the right side of the cabinet door. Do this with the door at 90 degrees. You have it open 180 degrees in the photo. this worked great! had to remove that styrofoam underneath from the inside of cabinet under the cover plate. also, needed to remove that set screw like you mentioned before i was able to shift the door a bit back. took a few tries but much easier to close and made sure the weather stripping was on properly. hopefully this does it! thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Yup. That is how it's done. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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