dogcow Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'm installing some LED bars in my machines that have had the floro go out, does anyone know what wires are the 110v a/c to the light in this machine? preperably with a pic of the correct wires. I installed it in the rowe machines i have but it was a bit of a guessing game on the first one ended up cutting a few wrong wires because i didnt notice a transformer in line with the light. id prefer to avoid it on this nicer machine. any help appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 I'm installing some LED bars in my machines that have had the floro go out, does anyone know what wires are the 110v a/c to the light in this machine? preperably with a pic of the correct wires. I installed it in the rowe machines i have but it was a bit of a guessing game on the first one ended up cutting a few wrong wires because i didnt notice a transformer in line with the light. id prefer to avoid it on this nicer machine. any help appreciated. Find the ballast (what you're calling the transformer) - the two wires feeding the ballast will be your 110v hot and neutral. If they're not color coded (neutral - white, hot - black) you'll need a basic voltage tester to find your hot. Test to ground (the machine body). The a/c wires connect to your LED power supply which basically is just a 12v step down transformer to power the LED array. You can remove the old ballast as it's only good for the fluorescent lamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogcow Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Find the ballast (what you're calling the transformer) - the two wires feeding the ballast will be your 110v hot and neutral. If they're not color coded (neutral - white, hot - black) you'll need a basic voltage tester to find your hot. Test to ground (the machine body). The a/c wires connect to your LED power supply which basically is just a 12v step down transformer to power the LED array. You can remove the old ballast as it's only good for the fluorescent lamps. oh i assumed it was a transformer because it had dc coming out of it, i thought only the bigger flourescent lights had a ballast the ones that dont need a starter. i wonder where it is, i dont see where it is at on the USI maybe its behind some trim panel also , its a/c , so does it even matter which wire is which? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 oh i assumed it was a transformer because it had dc coming out of it, i thought only the bigger flourescent lights had a ballast the ones that dont need a starter. i wonder where it is, i dont see where it is at on the USI maybe its behind some trim panel also , its a/c , so does it even matter which wire is which? The old fluorescent systems used the starter where the newer systems have the starter built into the lamp. A ballast is basically a transformer with a shunt - it ramps up the voltage temporarily to fire the lamp and once the lamp hits full ignition, it automatically ramps back. The one you're looking for will probably be about 4" long - trace the wires back from your lamp sockets and you'll get it. Often you can get away with crossing your leads but it's safer to just identify the hot lead. Crossing your leads is called reverse polarity and could have an adverse effect on your LED power supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogcow Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 The old fluorescent systems used the starter where the newer systems have the starter built into the lamp. A ballast is basically a transformer with a shunt - it ramps up the voltage temporarily to fire the lamp and once the lamp hits full ignition, it automatically ramps back. The one you're looking for will probably be about 4" long - trace the wires back from your lamp sockets and you'll get it. Often you can get away with crossing your leads but it's safer to just identify the hot lead. Crossing your leads is called reverse polarity and could have an adverse effect on your LED power supply. well the problem is not so much the wires in the snack machine arent color coded but theres no indication in the LED wiring which is which,theres no transformer in the led strip, i assume its built in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 well the problem is not so much the wires in the snack machine arent color coded but theres no indication in the LED wiring which is which,theres no transformer in the led strip, i assume its built in? It sounds like you're using one of those LED lamp replacements - the transformers are built into those. If there's no color coding then it won't matter which way you hook it up. Basically you're running 110v to the ends of the lamp sockets - you should have a diagram that tells you how to do it. I've seen it done a couple of different ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 If you're still looking for the light ballast, it's in the behind (inside) the power panel where the main power switch and circuit breakers are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogcow Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks that saved me a ton of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogcow Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks that saved me a ton of time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.