deoxys100ex Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) When I shut the door the temp went from 77-80F but I opened it up and I feel the cold air coming out. Did I do something in the wrong order and now it thinks it’s open when it’d shut and vice versa? Edit: When I shut the door, it goes back from settings/programming to sales Edited February 23, 2022 by deoxys100ex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendo Mike Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 If the machine jumps out of service (programming) mode to "sales mode" when you close the door, then that portion is working correctly. If you've just loaded the machine full of warm product, your machine will need a little time to catch up. If this is the scenario hours after loading, you could check for ice buildup on your evap coil located directly below the drop chute. If it's frozen up, the temp reading in the cabinet will start to climb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 Yes it jumps into sales mode. The drinks were cold and everything was working before I vacuumed out the machine. The refrigeration doesn’t cut on unless the door is open, so I think that it thinks the door is closed when it’s actually open and vice versa. Not sure how to solve that, but I’ll turn it off and back on again and check. I’ll leave the door shut when I do and see if that fixes it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 If the compressor actually turns on in the service mode and off in the sales mode (very odd) then I would try a new door switch first and make sure it's properly wired, then try the other side of the refrigeration relay (there are 2 output circuits in it) and lastly replace the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 So I inspected it more and the fan is blowing whether the door is open or closed, the air just isn’t chilling. The condenser isn’t frozen, it’s not cold to the touch even. There is some rust eating away right in front of it, but not anywhere else as far as I know The entire machine worked before I did a vacuum and deep clean; the only thing that was wrong was the ram chip died and I need to replace it. Other than that, it worked perfectly (besides the fluorescent lights being being burnt out). When I was inspecting it on the inside near the door hinge, assuming that’s where some of the refrigeration cords are, there seems to be a plug with prongs that is just open and attached to the machine, but I didn’t see anything not connected already. I did feel around and felt a plug was loose (it felt like a normal wall plug, and it was vertical, going down into the socket). I pushed it down and thought that was the issue, but it’s still not cooling. The temperatures are set correctly, and the machine is reading it at an accurate 81F. Not sure how much this matters, but there was condensation on the cans when I first opened the machine and found out they were all warm. Again, all I did was scrub the frame metal, blow out dust, and vacuum in crevasses. I bent a couple of fins on the intake for the… compressor? (the one underneath the condenser and drop chute). Most of the connections are filthy on the outside, some of the insulation around tubing for the refrigeration is degrading, and again there’s the rust. All I can think is either something is disconnected by accident, a connection is dirty for something that directly cools the air (I guess the compressor?), or the compressor is dead (which I really hope it isn’t, because it was just working) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 The evaporator fan inside the cabinet will run all of the time. Only the compressor and the condensing fan underneath the machine will run when the door is closed. If the compressor and condenser are now staying off then you managed to pull one or more wires off of your refrigeration relay on the left side of the cabinet next to the compressor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 That makes sense. When I head back, I will check and clean the ports, test the compressor, then the relay, and hopefully everything is working. I’ll reply with an update when done. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendo Mike Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 With the cabinet powered down, plug the refrigeration deck into an extension cord to confirm it still operates and cools. It is the cord that looks like a wall socket. This will allow you to confirm that the deck cools correctly. The evap coil should freeze over in a very short time if the system is charged correctly. AZ's suggestion on the relay makes perfect sense as that will prevent the board from being able to engage the compressor and is easy to bump loose during a scrub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 So, I unplugged the compressor and plugged it in the wall. It came on. I cleaned out all of the ports and it works now! However, it started forgetting money was put in again. I’m gonna buy this timekeeper and hope it fixes it https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/511-M48T1810PC1 However, I’m not sure if it’s soldered to the board or not. When I was working on it yesterday, I tugged on it and it didn’t budge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendo Mike Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 The timekeeper is clipped onto the Ram chip. They are generally secured with hot glue. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 I’m a little confused. How do I go about replacing it? I’m fairly certain it’s soldered in there, but I could be wrong. Here is a pic of the timekeeper btw. It’s not like the other yellow snap on ones. I bought the exact same timekeeper to replace it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 The timekeeper doesn't have anything to do with the credits, just the time and date? and maybe the price memory? They normally aren't soldered in but rather, pressed into a socket. Yours doesn't look like it's in a socket though so you would need to pull the board off and look at it from the side to see if it's in a socket. If not then it has to be soldered off and on, or off and then into a socket that solder to the board. Either way it's risky to solder on a PC board as the traces can lift from the board with too much heat. Due to that it might have to be sent for repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 Well it definitely needs a new timekeeper because every time I unplug it, it loses prices and StS settings. I figured credit would have something to do with that, but I will clean the coin changer connectors tomorrow with isopropyl alcohol and see if that fixes it. I had this issue once, and then reset the connectors and it was fine. Maybe all of the dust I blew around from the compressor intake was lucky enough to interfere with the coin changer again. Or maybe it has to do with how the coin changer is seated. Not entirely sure, but it makes more sense to me that the timekeeper is dead causing memory issues in settings, and that the coin changer is losing credit information somewhere along the way to the controller. If I send the board in for repair, who do you recommend? And should I just send in the timekeeper I ordered along with it and ask them to replace it with that, or should I just cancel the order and let whoever is fixing it replace it; possibly with one that can easily have the battery changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 You can send it to a variety of places such as Dieb, Vendors Exchange, D&S Vending, Capital Vending, etc. I would ask them to put a socket on the board to install your chip in. The dust you blew around won't cause a connectivity issue but some of it might be in your coin mech, but again, that wouldn't cause it to loose a credit - that is in the logic board. A bill acceptor can give a false credit but not a coin mech. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 I’ll do some more diagnosing tomorrow. I don’t quite understand why it wasn’t working, then working consistently for a bit, then not working again. To me, and my hope is, that means nothing is broken or bad, something is just loose or dirty. The machine is still filthy, so it wouldn’t hurt to reset the pins and clean some more anyway. I’ll document everything I do and how the machine responds. Sometimes I forget what I do or the order I put it in, which complicates the diagnostics. Not sure what the difference between the logic board and controller is, but maybe when I figure out what it is I can reset the pins there too. Today, I had another issue where the scrolling text that says “Ice Cold Coca Cola” was all gibberish and jumbled. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it fixed it, but maybe that has something to do with the logic board as well? As for the board, I assume that means it would be easily replaceable if it’s a socket. I’ll definitely ship them both in to any of those places at the beginning of March. Btw I really appreciate your help. I’m about as amateur as they get and this is my first machine. I’ve been reading the manual and watching Happy Vending on youtube trying to learn more and fix whatever issues that come up, but vendiscuss has been some of the most helpful for me when I have a specific issue. So thank you guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 (edited) Do you have bad bulbs in the door or bulbs that flicker or are dark at one end? If so that can cause issues with the logic board. You might also have dirty power from the wall outlet, voltage leaking to ground or a bad ground in the machine. Edited February 25, 2022 by AZVendor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, AZVendor said: Do you have bad bulbs in the door or bulbs that flicker or are dark at one end? If so that can cause issues with the logic board. You might also have dirty power from the wall outlet, voltage leaking to ground or a bad ground in the machine. I do have bad bulbs. One of them glows faintly and flickers and the other one is dead. Should I just remove them entirely even though I don’t have a replacement yet? Edited February 25, 2022 by deoxys100ex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Yes, remove them and the loss of credits and flickering display should stop. Sometimes the flickering has already corrupted the board, though that mostly happens with USI machines. You would have been so much better off with a simpler machine but the fancy looking machine is irresistible to the unknowing. By the way, plugging this machine in in your home or garage could leave it pulling too much current when the compressor starts which can cause a brown-out to the board. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 21 minutes ago, AZVendor said: Yes, remove them and the loss of credits and flickering display should stop. Sometimes the flickering has already corrupted the board, though that mostly happens with USI machines. You would have been so much better off with a simpler machine but the fancy looking machine is irresistible to the unknowing. By the way, plugging this machine in in your home or garage could leave it pulling too much current when the compressor starts which can cause a brown-out to the board. Alright I’ll definitely remove them today. Also, I have it plugged into an outlet in the laundry room of an apartment currently. How do I protect against a brown out? Do I need a surge protector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deoxys100ex Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 Also just took the bulbs out; everything is working flawlessly now (besides the memory loss after being unplugged, but that will be solved soon). Thank you so much for your help!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 If you have it in a commercial building already then you should be good as long as there are no other large current draws on the circuit which is generally not the case but you never know. Surge protectors can't be used on soda machines as the compressor starting will trip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now