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AP LCM4 Not Cooling


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Hi All, 

I've got an AP LCM4 unit that stopped cooling this week. I arrived to stock and the cans were all warm. 

I did some trouble shooting and here's what I know:

- The compressor is not turning on. The fan behind the compressor (between the compressor and the radiator looking screen) is also not turning. It's able to be turned freely by hand.

- There is no ice build up and the machine has proper ventilation in the back.

- The fan in the beverage area is running. At least, that's where I think it's coming from as I didn't take the front plate off to locate this fan. 

- I turned the machine off/on, unplugged/plugged and cycled the fuse/breaker found on the very front of the machine with no luck

Any ideas? I know the thermostats and defrost devices can go out but the compressor isn't even turning on. I'm worried it's a compressor issue. 

Also, does anyone know of a vending machine repair or refrigeration techs who are located or willing to travel to Northern Arizona? I've started contacting some in Phoenix and waiting to hear back. 

Thank you!

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Plug the compressor deck into an extension cord to see if it cools separate from the unit.   This will answer your first question.  If it cools, start looking for power to the deck.  The comp and condenser fan ( between the compressor and condenser coil) are tied to the same power so if neither is being engaged, I would start there.  If memory serves, the LCM used a started plug for the condensing system.  I would unplug that and check for power at that plug with the door switch closed.  The board should engage a relay or manual thermostat should close to supply 115VAC to the condenser.  If that's not happening, you know to look at the relay or thermostat.  If you don't have a meter to check voltage, you should be able to plug in your phone charger or a lamp or fan, anything that runs on 115 AC so you can confirm power.

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It's probably a bad defrost timer but you can't plug the cord to the can module into any normal outlet as it uses an inline 4 pin plug.  The timer has a white one way screw you can turn.  If the compressor comes on when you turn that white screw the only way it will go then you need to replace the timer.  Hi Line Vending is in Flagstaff and they might help you out if needed. They won't have the part though, so you'll have to order it. Here's the timer if you need it:  https://www.dsvendinginc.com/search.aspx?SearchTerm=d380320+

Edited by AZVendor
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Man, you two are good. 

It is a standard plug on the outflow side of the cold control. AZVendor, it's an inline 4 pin from the power source into the cold control/timer box and then a standard plug out. I used an extension cord to supply power to the compressor and it turned on and started cooling. So there's some issue in the cold control/timer box. 

I did plug the entire machine back in into normal operating fashion (without the extension cord) and turned the white one way screw. It would turn and click but did not turn the compressor on. So, could it still possibly be the defrost timer or is it something else in the cold control box? 

pics attached of the extension cord going to the compressor, the inside of the cold control box and the outside of the cold control box (one way white screw)

IMG_1217.jpg

IMG_1219.jpg

IMG_1221.jpg

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Turn the thermostat counter clockwise to zero (where it stops). Do you hear it click off?  If you rotate it to 3 1/2 do you hear another click when it would be turning on?  If not I would replace it along with the defrost timer.  If the thermostat clicks on and off then just do the defrost timer.  Whether you get a thermostat to be safe then is up to you.

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I did mess with it and didn't hear any obvious clicks (I'm back at home now) but could also just listen better. It's in a louder environment. 

And by thermostat, I'm guessing that's synonymous with cold control (https://www.dsvendinginc.com/p-8833-d360204-ap-lcm45-cold-control.aspx)? 

If so, I'll likely replace both. Where does that metal line from the thermostat/cold control go? Will I have to take out the soda storage deck in order to access that?

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Yes, that's the correct one and the terms are interchangeable.  The capillary tube will go into the bottom of the can module and has to be embedded into the fins of the evaporator.  You'll see where it is when you open the can module.  You'll have to remove the front door of it and empty all the cans out so you can see into it.  Get them both and try just the defrost timer first.  If no joy then go through the hassle of changing the thermostat.

To get the front door off you need to remove the candy shelf, then the two brackets that clamp over the top of the can door.  It will probably be stuck with syrup at the bottom so be careful with the door gasket.  Before you do this get yourself some milk crates and set the can prices to 0.00 so you can free vend the cans out.  That will leave two cans in each column.  Then remove the front door.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Re-opening this discussion. The thermostat seems to have failed for the 2nd time in 6 months. I replaced it in August and had no issues until  now. I bypass the control box with an extension cord and the compressor turns on and starts cooling (the line gets frosty). There is power to the control box (shocked myself accidentally) so I'm assuming it's the thermostat again. 

1) What would cause the thermostat to fail so quickly again? Any tips to installing it so it will last longer?

2) The compressor fan was intermittently on, unsure why. It was loud at the location so I couldn't hear if the evaporator fan was turning on. Could a bad evap fan be causing reliability issues with the thermostat? Is there a way to check the evaporator fan other than by ear?

Thanks....again. 

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The thermostat controls the compressor and the condensing fan in front of it.  If the compressor or it's fan are intermittent then it could just be a loose connection somewhere at the thermostat, at the condenser fan or in the wiring at the compressor which is where the fan is wired in at.  The evaporator fan inside the can module should be running continuously.  You need to be more specific as to what your symptoms are.

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