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DN 276e Not Cooling


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Just picked up a Dixie Narco 276e that isn't cooling. You can hear the compressor click off when I set the thermostat to the off position, and you can hear the compressor trying to come back on after I engage the thermostat. I also noticed the fan next to the compressor isn't turning on either, but the evaporator fan is. When the compressor tried to run for a bit it got VERY hot, but I assumed that's because the fan wasn't kicking on. Could it just be that there's a bad fan, or maybe the compressor isn't getting enough power and I need to try a 3-1? Could be that the compressor is shot too, but I'm not sure. Any insight is appreciated here. 

 

TIA 

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18 hours ago, tblake05 said:

I would pull the deck and check for 120v on the condenser fan when the thermostat is clicked on. The deck on these is actually really easy to take out.

Next would be to install a hard start if you don’t have voltage at the condenser fan.

Once you have the fan issue sorted out, since the deck is out, it would be a great time to check Freon level while it’s running before you put it all back in.

Thanks, tblake. I'll give this all a try and let you know how it goes. The machine cost me $50 so I figured it was worth a shot. 

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It might so it's worth a try. If it does work then the compressor isn't locked but the factory start capacitor or start relay are weak or the compressor is too worn out to start on it's own.

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check fan 1st, if fan powers on and it doesn't cool, then check compressor a 3in1 is about $12 online, easy to install, if compressor turns on and gets cool, then you're all set, if its still hot, then you have to get a new head

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I had a 276e that the factory installed overload constantly tripped when the thermostat was turned on. I installed a 3-in-1 just to see what would happen as I feared the compressor was locked up. But, it worked! Not saying that the compressor isn’t on its way out, but since I did the 3-in1 I also topped off Freon to the correct pressure and it’s been since February and still running fine.

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I'm definitely gonna try everything, and honestly thought this was an excellent opportunity to expand on my troubleshooting skills. Looking forward to busting the old multi-meter out and checking voltages and the such. The machine cost me $50. Of course the compressor isn't working at the moment, the most expensive part, but everything else is, so I figured I got some good parts for pretty dang cheap. 

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Turns out all this was is that the fan couldn't spin because of rust build up on the nut that connects the fan to the motor. Little WD-40 & rust buster and boom the cooling deck turned on no issue. 

 

Thanks everyone

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Um, the nut rusted to the fan blade wouldn't be a problem because it's not supposed to be loose anyway.  It sounds more like the armature in the motor was rusted/corroded and prevented the fan from turning.    You need to replace the fan motor before it seizes again.

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I had a feeling I'd be wrong on the terminology, but when I went to spin the fan with my finger it hardly moved at all. When I sprayed the WD-40 on it there was instant relief in the fan's ability to rotate. The machine was sitting in a closet for two years before I bought it so I definitely think there was some corrosion/build up, but there wasn't any visible damage to the motor or armature after I cleaned it all up. I left the machine running for a few hours afterwards and everything seemed to be working well, so do you still expect the fan to seize again? 

I can buy a backup motor just in case either way. 

 

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Since the fans aren't intended to be lubricated, and definitely not with WD-40, I would replace the motor, period.

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Hey guys,

 

Forgot to mention the light isn't turning on in the bubble front of the machine, and it's also missing the drain tube. Less concerned about the drain tube as that seems super simple to replace, but what should I be looking for as to why the light isn't turning on? Think it just needs a new ballast? 

 

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The ballast should be mounted inside the cabinet next to the compressor.  The wires from it to the door are solid copper and after years of flexing as the door is opened and closed, one or more wires will break.  That's where I would look.  Also, get your drain tube replaced to reduce the amount of frost on your evaporator.

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Yeah, sorry I was using the word ballast incorrectly. I meant the actual bulb might need to be replaced but I'll trace the wires like you said. 

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If you put new bulbs in and they don't work, assuming the sockets are good, then the ballast or it's wiring are the next step.

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Yeah haven't gotten that far yet, but I'll check the wiring before ordering a new bulb to make sure there isn't an obvious break in the wire. 

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