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RVCC 660-9 Bill / Coin Acceptor


Fud

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Good tip darkinthepark.  Also, I am not 100% sure about this but I BELIEVE that the columns go from front RIGHT to rear LEFT.  In other words, from right to left, the front columns are 1-6.  The rear columns (again, from right to left) should be 7-12.

 

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16 hours ago, AngryChris said:

Good tip darkinthepark.  Also, I am not 100% sure about this but I BELIEVE that the columns go from front RIGHT to rear LEFT.  In other words, from right to left, the front columns are 1-6.  The rear columns (again, from right to left) should be 7-12.

 

You are correct on the column order Chris.

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1 hour ago, Fud said:

Ok new relay is in and its still cooling past the temp set in the Setp settings. I have set for 38F and its passing it and not shutting off. Does that mean it was the temp sensor all along?

If the sensor is reading the actual temp it's OK. The credit display will show the temperature in operate mode. If not, turn it on in the 'refrig' menu (displ).  Does the unit shut off when you open the door?

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On my royal 650s, I believe I can set the LOW and HIGH temperatures.  Assuming your programming is the same, you need to check to make sure the LOW setting isn't something ridiculously low.  You should be something like 34-38.

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2 minutes ago, AngryChris said:

On my royal 650s, I believe I can set the LOW and HIGH temperatures.  Assuming your programming is the same, you need to check to make sure the LOW setting isn't something ridiculously low.  You should be something like 34-38.

Setp is set at 38 and store is set at 60 im not sure if there is another setting i havnt found yet.

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The other guys know better than me but I am just trying to spit out ideas.  I'm just thinking that something is wrong with the temp sensor and it cannot shut the unit off.  I don't know if the main control board has anything to do with that or not.  I have never had to change one of those.  If they are frozen at 19F, then the reading is probably correct.  If it is the board that controls the compressor, then you may need to have your board repaired. 

There are only two ways to make a compressor run in a vending machine.  One, the thermostat/temp sensor will turn the compressor on.  Or two, the thermostat/temp sensor is completely bypassed.  So... assuming your refrigeration deck is plugged direclty into the cabinet and NOT directly into the outlet, then I guess maybe it's a control board problem if not a low temperature setting.

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1 minute ago, Fud said:

Setp is set at 38 and store is set at 60 im not sure if there is another setting i havnt found yet.

Again, I don't know if the programming in that one is the same as my 650, but I do believe there is some sort of a RANGE setting that allows you to decide how LOW the temperature goes before it shuts off and how HIGH it goes before turning it back on.  In all honesty, I might be wrong and I might be getting confused with a bevmax because I had to mess with both in the past around the same time period, but I do believe the royal has an option for high and low.  Don't bet on me being right about the range though.  I'm tired and not all there right now.

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Defective door switch. Upon opening the door, the LED should not show “Ice Cold...”. If it does, check the door switch wiring. Replace the door switch if necessary.

Defective control board. Replace the control board.

Adapter harness wired incorrectly (GII VII and EVS boards). Check to make sure the harness wires are in order, from ZX1 to ZX6. Correct the wires if wrong.

Defective relay. Contacts are welded together. Unplug one of the wires with the pink connectors from the relay. Also unplug the 115 VAC side of the relay. If the unit cuts off, replace the relay.

Defective main power cord. If the unit continues to run after unplugging everything from the relay, replace the main wiring harness (junction block).

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That's what I found.  It seems as though your relay is fine so you need to test the door switch (as stated above), check the wiring of the adapter harness, the main power cord, and the contacts to the relay (probably fine though).  And be careful not to shock yourself.

I am wondering if you have a bad control board to be honest.

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I have a replacement board as well. The wierd thing is everyone says this machine worked fine in the last month its only after the vender pulled the coin and bill mech that it doesnt seem to be right.

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Also no ice cold when door is open so its not door switch. From what ive read on the manual the Setp is the only setting where i set the low temp. But i will try to read on that more tomorrow. Im now thinking incorrect harness config or control board malfunction.

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1 minute ago, Fud said:

I have a replacement board as well. The wierd thing is everyone says this machine worked fine in the last month its only after the vender pulled the coin and bill mech that it doesnt seem to be right.

Personally, I am not surprised that it worked fine before and now there's a gremlin in there.  Think about it... pulling the coin mech and validator out requires disconnecting a few things and some wires COULD get shorted out.  If the vendor pulled everything out without turning the machine off, he COULD have damaged the board.  If the machine was moved, things could have happened.  Maybe it's my luck, but a machine might work fine for 5+ years until it gets moved, then everything goes to crap real quick.  I wouldn't get hung up on the idea that it worked fine before and now it doesn't... it may be relevant as to WHY you have these problems, but it definitely won't resolve these problems.  Machines break down.  In fact, refrigeration decks are notoriously bad about "working fine" when they are last used and then not working fine when you try them again a few months later.  A little bit of static discharge can damage a control board.  Things just happen.

I would verify that your door switch works properly and check the power cord per the manual.  If you have a spare board, I would simply swap boards out and see if the problem goes away.  Checking those three things, one at a time, should point to the culprit.

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I would first remove power from the board by pulling the fuse or remove power input harness. If the compressor turns off, it's a control issue (board/wiring to from board). If it does not turn off with the board, the problem is high voltage, somewhere from the power cord to the power distribution block.

Are there 2 relays or just 1? Energy Star rated systems have a relay for the evaporator fan, as well as one for the compressor. The wiring may be flipped. If there are 2 relays, you can test them independently in the test menu.

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