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Arnold Palmer 16oz bottles


robrow77
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Hey all, newbie as newbie can be here. I have searched the threads and cant find it anywhere, so sorry if its already been covered. We have a DN501e and I am looking at placing the 16oz Arnold Palmer's in one of the slots. Issue I'm having is I cant find anywhere what shims, rods, or tubes I should be using. If anyone can guide me in the right direction would be awesome.

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Haha no worries....I'm still trying to figure this all out. Those vend test specs are a help but I still cant find the specs for Arizona Arnold Palmer Lite 16 oz plastic bottles. Should I just try a similar diameter setting? The bottles are a hair wider than 2 and a half inches...2 9/16 is what I'm getting?

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Just try using a 12 oz can setup and load it up and see how it does.  If you can vend 12 bottles straight without issue, you're probably good.  You might have to play with the cam settings though so you don't vend 2 bottles, followed by a dry vend, then 2, then dry, etc..

 

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I'm thinking that is what I'm going to have to do. I've seen discussion on a plastic tube for the rod on 16.9 oz plastic bottles. Do you guys reccomend those or are they more of a hassle? And if they are needed is there a difference. One web site had diffrent color one with no description?

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2 hours ago, robrow77 said:

I'm thinking that is what I'm going to have to do. I've seen discussion on a plastic tube for the rod on 16.9 oz plastic bottles. Do you guys reccomend those or are they more of a hassle? And if they are needed is there a difference. One web site had diffrent color one with no description?

I don't know about different colors.  The ones I have gotten are brass-looking so maybe that's what you see?  I have also seen older ones that look like galvanized steel.  The point of the rod is to kind of shim the product inside the rotor so that there won't be enough space for something else to fall into the rotor and jam it up.  Since 20 oz bottles are wider, you don't need rods.  Smaller bottles probably need rods.  Cans can sometimes vend fine without rods but it's honestly worth it in my opinion to be safe than sorry.  If I recall, the rod goes in the 2nd hole.  Also, as a tip, I change shims/rods in this order:

First, with the power off and motor cover off, I press down on the brake (barely takes any effort to press down on the brake) and hold the arm on the switch so it doesn't accidentally get bent if I am turning the wrong way.  I turn the rotors by hand just enough so that they are facing down.  Then, I go underneath and and put the spring side in the second hole, then line up the other end with the 2nd hole.  I don't remember why, but I put the rotors facing down because for some reason it was easier to see what I was doing.  Then, I turn the rotor so that the open side faces the bottle shim so I can replace it easily.  I take the back spacer out to make it easier, remove the bottle shim, insert the can shim and make sure it goes in easily (takes some wiggling sometimes), and push it so it's against the column wall, then replace the back spacer.  Finally, I put power back on and pull the door switch so that everything homes.  If you did it right, it will work fine and you'll just have to adjust the cams and back spacers for any column you changed.  Just make sure you put the back spacer on correctly so it isn't sitting too low because it will get jammed up and/or damaged in the rotor if you put it on wrong.  

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