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refrigeration question...again


bcron

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Probably low charge. But first make sure your condensor is clean, that the machine is not against the wall and that the evaporator fan is working properly. Then unplug the compressor from the machine and plug it into an extension cord with the soda machine unplugged. The frost line should go all the way through the evaporator. If it is still on top and on the small tube then it is a low charge.

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Probably low charge. But first make sure your condensor is clean, that the machine is not against the wall and that the evaporator fan is working properly. Then unplug the compressor from the machine and plug it into an extension cord with the soda machine unplugged. The frost line should go all the way through the evaporator. If it is still on top and on the small tube then it is a low charge.

I don't think it's a ventilation issue...the machine hasn't moved and it started recently. I changed out the Tstat but I am wondering if I shorted that one when I installed it. Got an arc when I plugged it in.

On that same note, on this 501T I can't get to the plug to unplug it. I couldn't find a main power switch or anything to remove power to the machine while I changed Tstats. Do you know if there's another way to remove power other than the plug for when I do work on the 501Ts? I unplugged the compressor but obviously the Tstat still had power to it.

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I don't think it's a ventilation issue...the machine hasn't moved and it started recently. I changed out the Tstat but I am wondering if I shorted that one when I installed it. Got an arc when I plugged it in.

On that same note, on this 501T I can't get to the plug to unplug it. I couldn't find a main power switch or anything to remove power to the machine while I changed Tstats. Do you know if there's another way to remove power other than the plug for when I do work on the 501Ts? I unplugged the compressor but obviously the Tstat still had power to it.

Don't hold me accountable for this but I think on the 501E, there is a plug on the bottom of the machine in front of the compressor that leads to the door. I believe this shuts off power to the board but I am not sure if it shuts off power to the refrigeration deck as well or even if it exists on the 501T. It looks kind of like a plug you would find to plug into the back of a stereo. I am not sure about it though.

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The only way to kill the power to the cold control is to in plug the machine from the wall. Unplugging the refer unit will eliminate the arc but you could still get shocked.

If the back of the machine is within 2 inches of a wall it will not work correctly.

Often when coils freeze over the flap door the cans exit throw is damaged or missing.

Walta

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I always recommend 1 defrost before attempt any repair. If someone failed to close the door properly the coils will freeze over.

Also check the door gasket.

I do not recommend repairing Dixie units with leaks that are still in production. As the new replacement cost is surprising low. Any good repair job will be over $300.00

Walta

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I do not recommend repairing Dixie units with leaks that are still in production. As the new replacement cost is surprising low. Any good repair job will be over $300.00

Are you talking about deck replacement?

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I do not recommend repairing Dixie units with leaks that are still in production. As the new replacement cost is surprising low. Any good repair job will be over $300.00

Are you talking about deck replacement?

I'm assuming he is. To replace the deck might cost you $225 and probably come with a decent warranty. I agree with him as I haven't seen a place do a repair job for a price that's cheaper than just swapping out the deck with a refurbished one.

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Let's look at the unit posted on EBay.

1 It is more than 20 years old how much longer will it last?

2 Does it still have the R12 it that it was designed for?

3 What percentage of the time will UPS be able to deliver an undamaged 20 + year old unit?

4 If it has a slow leak and it quits after you leave feedback do you have any recourse?

To do a good repair

1 Clean unit

2 open sealed system

3 Recover refrigerant

4 properly dispose of contaminated refrigerant.

5 Install charging port

6 locate and leak and repair

7 Replace filter

8 Pull hard vacuum.

9 See if vacuum holds 24 hours

10 Fill with the correct amount of the designed refrigerant.

11 Test unit

12 Build a shipping box.

13 Put add on EBay.

14 Ship unit.

To turn a profit at $100 how many steps did he skip or short cut.

I don't think I could 11-14 for $100.

I have likely meet the seller on this item as he is only 50 miles down the road.

The seller has only 1 buyer feedback in the last year.

Good refrigeration work takes time and that costs money. Personal I take a dim view of the guys that replace one flavor of refrigerant with another and say close enough.

I don't like to spend more than 1/2 the price of a new part on a repaired part but that my choice.

Maybe you are lucky and it will arrive un damaged and run 40 years without missing a beat.

There is no right or wrong answer each must choose base on their cash flow and how long they plan to own the machine.

Walta

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Let's look at the unit posted on EBay.

1 It is more than 20 years old how much longer will it last?

2 Does it still have the R12 it that it was designed for?

3 What percentage of the time will UPS be able to deliver an undamaged 20 + year old unit?

4 If it has a slow leak and it quits after you leave feedback do you have any recourse?

To do a good repair

1 Clean unit

2 open sealed system

3 Recover refrigerant

4 properly dispose of contaminated refrigerant.

5 Install charging port

6 locate and leak and repair

7 Replace filter

8 Pull hard vacuum.

9 See if vacuum holds 24 hours

10 Fill with the correct amount of the designed refrigerant.

11 Test unit

12 Build a shipping box.

13 Put add on EBay.

14 Ship unit.

To turn a profit at $100 how many steps did he skip or short cut.

I don't think I could 11-14 for $100.

I have likely meet the seller on this item as he is only 50 miles down the road.

The seller has only 1 buyer feedback in the last year.

Good refrigeration work takes time and that costs money. Personal I take a dim view of the guys that replace one flavor of refrigerant with another and say close enough.

I don't like to spend more than 1/2 the price of a new part on a repaired part but that my choice.

Maybe you are lucky and it will arrive un damaged and run 40 years without missing a beat.

There is no right or wrong answer each must choose base on their cash flow and how long they plan to own the machine.

Walta

I bought one from a different seller 3 years ago and its still in a machine running.

John

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You take your chances. Sometimes you win, some you lose. I usually do what walta recommends. I have not had a refer repaired in a long time. Sure it costs more but the result is that I, and my customer, deal with the problem once.

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I would buy from this seller. He is the owner of Vending Works in California, and I have NEVER had a problem using his decks. They are done right, completely clean, new tube covering, refrigerant, filter, etc. Here is the link to his eBay ad. He has several versions, so check his other items.

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cbe82f114

BTW, he does an excellent job packing them as well. Thick, heavy duty cardboard and packing, UPS would have had to use an axe to damage the unit inside....

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