Any info on a replacement cooling deck for this model?

[Herbie]

I have not found this exact model pictured anywhere online. Would this be considered a DNCB 501t model? Looking to replace the compressor and possibly the whole cooling deck just need to confirm it will work with my machine. 

[cvending]

Is that a deep deep can drink?

 

[cvending]

A 2 deep can drink?

 

[NevilleW]

Just pull the deck out & get it serviced would be my suggestion

[Herbie]

1 hour ago, cvending said:

A 2 deep can drink?

 

Its 3 deep. Just bought it for my garage. Trying to find information on it because the only manuals i can find are for 501t and they dont seem to exactly be my machine. Compressor is bad for sure and its an r12 built in 88. So im going to need to get that replaced but i cant even figure out how to set the price as there is no display on it?

 

[AngryChris]

It's a 501T but it uses the same cooling deck as any 501 model OR any E model (501E, 276E, 600E).  What matters is that it's for a 3-deep dixie narco.  Don't waste your time buying just a compressor.  Buy the entire deck for a 501 or "E" model. 

[Herbie]

12 minutes ago, AngryChris said:

It's a 501T but it uses the same cooling deck as any 501 model OR any E model (501E, 276E, 600E).  What matters is that it's for a 3-deep dixie narco.  Don't waste your time buying just a compressor.  Buy the entire deck for a 501 or "E" model. 

Thanks!  Any idea how to set price on this? Every manual i can find for 501 models says to put in setup mode but they have an lcd display and mine does not? 

[cvending]

Pricing is set inside the coin mech. There is a series of dip switches to set pricing. The left most switches is the   .05 price and each additional switch doubles in value. Total up the switches to equal the price you want to set. 

[Herbie]

12 minutes ago, cvending said:

Pricing is set inside the coin mech. There is a series of dip switches to set pricing. The left most switches is the   .05 price and each additional switch doubles in value. Total up the switches to equal the price you want to set. 

Thanks! 

 

[Herbie]

1 hour ago, cvending said:

Pricing is set inside the coin mech. There is a series of dip switches to set pricing. The left most switches is the   .05 price and each additional switch doubles in value. Total up the switches to equal the price you want to set. 

This worked though do you know is there anyway to set free vend on this coin mech? Also I've noticed another issue i have the compressor unplugged inside the machine and when i plug the machine in it works fine for about 5 minutes then eventually trips the breaker. I have it on a 20 amp breaker and it's the only thing on the circuit would you take this to mean there is a short elsewhere in the machine or is there something im missing?

[AngryChris]

17 minutes ago, Herbie said:

This worked though do you know is there anyway to set free vend on this coin mech? Also I've noticed another issue i have the compressor unplugged inside the machine and when i plug the machine in it works fine for about 5 minutes then eventually trips the breaker. I have it on a 20 amp breaker and it's the only thing on the circuit would you take this to mean there is a short elsewhere in the machine or is there something im missing?

I am no expert on refrigeration but I will take a guess here... If the compressor has been running non-stop for say.. roughly 5 minutes and then suddenly trips the breaker, I would say that your compressor is overheating and when the overload activates to shut off the compressor, it's shorting out and tripping the breaker.  The thing is, if your overload is tripping the breaker, it's probably bad.  But replacing the overload won't stop the compressor from overheating.  If it's overheating, then that's your main concern.  The condenser fan should run whenever the compressor runs and your condenser should be clean to allow air to flow over the compressor... and you need an air gap behind the machine to allow air to flow out as well.  The compressor must have air flow AND it must be properly charged too.

[Herbie]

11 minutes ago, AngryChris said:

I am no expert on refrigeration but I will take a guess here... If the compressor has been running non-stop for say.. roughly 5 minutes and then suddenly trips the breaker, I would say that your compressor is overheating and when the overload activates to shut off the compressor, it's shorting out and tripping the breaker.  The thing is, if your overload is tripping the breaker, it's probably bad.  But replacing the overload won't stop the compressor from overheating.  If it's overheating, then that's your main concern.  The condenser fan should run whenever the compressor runs and your condenser should be clean to allow air to flow over the compressor... and you need an air gap behind the machine to allow air to flow out as well.  The compressor must have air flow AND it must be properly charged too.

So when i bought the machine i was told it worked a month ago but then the compressor quit. When i got it and started troubleshooting i see right away it looked like some mice had gotten to the wires there was short leading to the capacitor. I took out the bad wiring and put in a 3 in 1 switch hoping that would get it running but the overload would click it on and off every 30 seconds. That's when i did what i should have done to begin with and put my multimeter to the compressor and realized i was o.l on all but 1 prong which gave me about 1 ohm. I can only assume the short fried the wiring in the compressor. However i have disconnected the compressor and condenser from the rest of the unit so im not sure what's causing it to trip the breaker. The only part of the cooling deck wired directly to machine is the evaporator fan as far as i can tell. Just not sure what's causing the machine itself to draw so many amps. 

[AngryChris]

Does the machine still trip the breaker when the refrigeration is unplugged from the cabinet?  Does the deck trip the breaker when it is plugged in directly to an outlet (not plugged into the cabinet)?

[Herbie]

1 hour ago, AngryChris said:

Does the machine still trip the breaker when the refrigeration is unplugged from the cabinet?  Does the deck trip the breaker when it is plugged in directly to an outlet (not plugged into the cabinet)?

So what i have found through my troubleshooting is this. If i plug the machine in with the compressor on the circuit it trips right away. If i plug the compressor in by itself the breaker does not trip but the 3 in 1 capacitor overload clicks it off then right back on about every 30 seconds. If i plug the machine in by itself without the compressor on the circuit everything runs as it should but trips the breaker almost like clockwork after running for about 5 minutes. I just tested this twice with my multimeter on the breaker and the machine without the compressor is pulling about 2.4 amps. The number doesnt stray at all then after roughly 5 minutes it goes from 2.4 to 0 as the breaker trips. The fact that the amperage doesnt slowly increase makes me think its a dead short but i see know obvious evidence of a short anywhere and the fact that it takes 5 minutes each time has me very confused. 

[AngryChris]

That doesn't make much sense.  I'd suspect the ballast but I don't know what, on the cabinet alone, could trip after 5 minutes.  I suppose it could be the evaporator fan.  Those are the only two parts that could draw much.  You could maybe have a vend motor that's stuck but I've never heard of a vend motor causing a breaker to trip.  Maybe the breaker itself is old and sensitive.  Check the cord to make sure it's not damaged and disconnect the ballast.  See if it still trips.  Try another circuit too.

[cvending]

I would suggest pulling the deck out for repair. It is not doing any good in the machine as-is.  A good local refrigeration guy should be able to test and repair the unit. Or you could buy a new one for $500. Just saying....

 

[Herbie]

2 hours ago, AngryChris said:

That doesn't make much sense.  I'd suspect the ballast but I don't know what, on the cabinet alone, could trip after 5 minutes.  I suppose it could be the evaporator fan.  Those are the only two parts that could draw much.  You could maybe have a vend motor that's stuck but I've never heard of a vend motor causing a breaker to trip.  Maybe the breaker itself is old and sensitive.  Check the cord to make sure it's not damaged and disconnect the ballast.  See if it still trips.  Try another circuit too.

Thanks so much for your help.i have manually tested all the vend motors and they all function. But when i was initially looking for a short the first thing that stuck out to me was the ballast. I think previous owner kept the machine outside. And not on level ground. Weather stripping inside the door is deteriorated and when i pulled the ballast out the top of the box is rusted. But when the lights came on i assumed it was fine. I'll remove it from the circuit and if it doesnt trip then ill just replace it with aftermarket led strips. If not then ill look at my breakers. Thanks again to everybody. 

[Herbie]

6 hours ago, AngryChris said:

That doesn't make much sense.  I'd suspect the ballast but I don't know what, on the cabinet alone, could trip after 5 minutes.  I suppose it could be the evaporator fan.  Those are the only two parts that could draw much.  You could maybe have a vend motor that's stuck but I've never heard of a vend motor causing a breaker to trip.  Maybe the breaker itself is old and sensitive.  Check the cord to make sure it's not damaged and disconnect the ballast.  See if it still trips.  Try another circuit too.

You were right. Disconnected the lights and its running fine. Gonna put some leds in there. Last question i hope. These parts were in there door. Do you know what these are for? 

[AngryChris]

6 hours ago, Herbie said:

You were right. Disconnected the lights and its running fine. Gonna put some leds in there. Last question i hope. These parts were in there door. Do you know what these are for? 

It's very wise to put LEDs in there.  Bypass the ballast completely and take it out of the machine and get direct-wire LEDs.  

The two metal pieces in there are the parts of your motor cover.  I have never taken the smaller one off but I am pretty sure it goes above the larger one.  The larger one is the one that actually goes over all of the motors.  You should have some metal tabs or "studs" if you want to call them that over your motors.  Again, I have never had the top small cover off so I don't know how it goes back on.  There should be a slit on the "bottom" of the motor cover and that's for a screw which might not even be below your motors.  The "top" of the cover has a few small holes and the "studs" go in there to lock it into place.  The covers are there to protect the motors.  I am guessing that the top cover goes over the sold-out switches.  Sorry, I got rid of most of the older machines that had the top cover.  You should also remove power when messing with the motor cover so you don't accidentally shock yourself if you short a motor or a wire or something.

[AZVendor]

The small one covers the sold out switches.

[SCOTT1963]

DIX65804160 is the part number for the deck