How do you heat the back of your truck?

[djkeller3]

I live in Kentucky, and it gets cold here. By that, I mean from January through March, it can get down around 0 and stay there for days at a time. And with it comes lots of frozen soda (mostly diet soda of course) and working in those cold temperatures on the back of my box truck is something I just refuse to do this year.

When my company was smaller (and when I lived closer to my storage unit), I would park my box truck at home and run an electric heater via extension cord all night which worked well. Now I live too far away so I park it at my storage unit where I have no access to electricity. However, I've never had a good solution for working in those frigid temps during the day.

I just installed at 1500 watt inverter, but trying to run any electric heater just draws down too much power. And I don't want to run my engine constantly to keep my battery charged. I've decided to use my inverter for other things.

So I tried a propane heater (mind you, without adequate research). Decided it was too dangerous to keep the propane tank on the back of the truck. Then discovered it's actually against federal law to to place it back there anyways, so I took back the heater and accessories. Too bad, because that really worked well.

The only other option I think is to use a small kerosene heater. Sure, caution is to be used when fueling and care needs to be taken to ensure proper ventilation, but it seems like a viable option. Of course, like many of you, I have boxes on the floor and things can be very cramped back there, so I know caution is key in terms of where I place the unit.

I'm curious as to what others are doing to make the cold conditions a bit more comfortable. Obviously, I won't be leaving anything burning while I'm not on the truck (so night-time freezing temps will still be a problem), but I really have to have a solution in place for when I am working.

Thoughts? Ideas? Thanks!

[AngryChris]

I live in Ohio (You know, that state that is further North of Kentucky where it can get EVEN COLDER!) and I can tell you from experience that there are a few things you can do and should do.

Firstly, about the heater, the electric heaters are the best way to go IMO because they are "safer" and get the job done. I wouldn't dare use a karosene heater at all and propane just sounds like overkill honestly... but anyway...

The easiest thing that I have had to do... (and I used to work for a company and I was responsible for up to $10,000/week) was to do some preventative work first before I even bothered with a heater.

What I learned was that DIET soda started to freeze around 17 degrees Fahrenheit. So... if it was going to get NEAR 20 or 19 degrees, I would take all of the diet soda off because no matter how hard I tried to keep it warm enough in there, you are only heating the air... the FREEZING box from the outside weather is constantly battling with your little space heater to freeze your truck while the heater only warms up the air.

Also, at around 8 degrees F, all soda starts to freeze and this is the point where I take EVERYTHING off and don't even bother with a space heater because it's so cold at that point that there's nothing you can do unless your box is sealed great. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but one case of diet 20oz bottles ruined in 1 night can be costly, right? How about 2 cases? 3 cases? This could easily cost people close to $60 for 3 cases lost and I would rather pay for the FUEL used overnight to run the inverter!

Pretty much every non-fluid on your truck will be fine anyway... and again, I know it sounds like a lot of work but, other than parking your vehicle inside a heated or enclosed garage where you really could hook up a propane heater, there's not a whole lot you can do at those temperatures... it's just too cold.

If you HAVE to keep some product on your truck ( due to whatever reason ), the BEST method that I found was to stack my soda up on top of each other so that the air flow hits it the most ( like a column of soda ). The soda on the bottom and against the walls freezes the most due to not having enough airflow to warm it up all over. You can put a few empty plastic cases on the floor of your box and stack the rest up high directly in the path of the heater. Then you can use some of your cardboard to create a containment so the heat hits the cardboard and sorta bounces back toward the back side of the soda.

Again, I know my solutions sound like a lot of work, but it surely saved hundreds of dollars during those brutal weeks.

[djkeller3]

I live in Ohio (You know, that state that is further North of Kentucky where it can get EVEN COLDER!) and I can tell you from experience that there are a few things you can do and should do.

Firstly, about the heater, the electric heaters are the best way to go IMO because they are "safer" and get the job done. I wouldn't dare use a karosene heater at all and propane just sounds like overkill honestly... but anyway...

The easiest thing that I have had to do... (and I used to work for a company and I was responsible for up to $10,000/week) was to do some preventative work first before I even bothered with a heater.

What I learned was that DIET soda started to freeze around 17 degrees Fahrenheit. So... if it was going to get NEAR 20 or 19 degrees, I would take all of the diet soda off because no matter how hard I tried to keep it warm enough in there, you are only heating the air... the FREEZING box from the outside weather is constantly battling with your little space heater to freeze your truck while the heater only warms up the air.

Also, at around 8 degrees F, all soda starts to freeze and this is the point where I take EVERYTHING off and don't even bother with a space heater because it's so cold at that point that there's nothing you can do unless your box is sealed great. I know it sounds like a lot of work, but one case of diet 20oz bottles ruined in 1 night can be costly, right? How about 2 cases? 3 cases? This could easily cost people close to $60 for 3 cases lost and I would rather pay for the FUEL used overnight to run the inverter!

Pretty much every non-fluid on your truck will be fine anyway... and again, I know it sounds like a lot of work but, other than parking your vehicle inside a heated or enclosed garage where you really could hook up a propane heater, there's not a whole lot you can do at those temperatures... it's just too cold.

If you HAVE to keep some product on your truck ( due to whatever reason ), the BEST method that I found was to stack my soda up on top of each other so that the air flow hits it the most ( like a column of soda ). The soda on the bottom and against the walls freezes the most due to not having enough airflow to warm it up all over. You can put a few empty plastic cases on the floor of your box and stack the rest up high directly in the path of the heater. Then you can use some of your cardboard to create a containment so the heat hits the cardboard and sorta bounces back toward the back side of the soda.

Again, I know my solutions sound like a lot of work, but it surely saved hundreds of dollars during those brutal weeks.

In the coldest of temperatures, I have also unloaded all the diet soda because just as you have said, it freezes first. And not only is it a lot of work, it's miserable work when it's that cold outside and with ice and snow on the ground.

I don't know a lot about inverters, but from what I've read, going above 1500 Watts may require some additional modifications. I have a 1500 watt inverter that I just installed. I tried to run a 1200 watt electric heater, actually, it DID run it, but it pulled my idle way down and dimmed my lights and the inverter squealed like a pig. It didn't overload per se', but I felt like to run it even a little but would either damage the inverter, my alternator, or both. So I scrapped that idea. I assume my inverter shouldn't be squeal like that, so I'm really disappointed that it appears to be unable to run an electric heater rated at 300 Watts below the inverter maximum power.

Even if it could run it, I would in no way let my truck run all night long under any condition, not because of fuel consumption, but because of the wear and tear on my motor. That can't be good for any engine. I'd rather do the loading / unloading solution.

So... soda aside... is there any reason to not run a kerosene heater while physically working in the back of the truck? I'm asking as much from the standpoint of providing some warmer working conditions as I am for the freeze-prevention for sodas. Kerosene has a higher danger risk, sure, but I'm only going to use when I'm on the truck, do I think I can minimize whatever additional risk there may be...unless I'm overlooking something, and that's why I'm asking here. Don't want to do something stupid! Lol!

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[dogcow]

In the coldest of temperatures, I have also unloaded all the diet soda because just as you have said, it freezes first. And not only is it a lot of work, it's miserable work when it's that cold outside and with ice and snow on the ground.

I don't know a lot about inverters, but from what I've read, going above 1500 Watts may require some additional modifications. I have a 1500 watt inverter that I just installed. I tried to run a 1200 watt electric heater, actually, it DID run it, but it pulled my idle way down and dimmed my lights and the inverter squealed like a pig. It didn't overload per se', but I felt like to run it even a little but would either damage the inverter, my alternator, or both. So I scrapped that idea. I assume my inverter shouldn't be squeal like that, so I'm really disappointed that it appears to be unable to run an electric heater rated at 300 Watts below the inverter maximum power.

Even if it could run it, I would in no way let my truck run all night long under any condition, not because of fuel consumption, but because of the wear and tear on my motor. That can't be good for any engine. I'd rather do the loading / unloading solution.

So... soda aside... is there any reason to not run a kerosene heater while physically working in the back of the truck? I'm asking as much from the standpoint of providing some warmer working conditions as I am for the freeze-prevention for sodas. Kerosene has a higher danger risk, sure, but I'm only going to use when I'm on the truck, do I think I can minimize whatever additional risk there may be...unless I'm overlooking something, and that's why I'm asking here. Don't want to do something stupid! Lol!

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can u run the inverter off some deep cycle marine batteries, ice cream trucks and RVs use them. just charge it over night

[djkeller3]

can u run the inverter off some deep cycle marine batteries, ice cream trucks and RVs use them. just charge it over night

That's a good idea, just that I don't have a good way to charge the batteries since I don't have access to electricity at my storage unit.

So... is the consensus that most full-line vendors just tough it out and don't do anything about working in a frigid box truck all day? Surely I can't be the only one tired of freezing his a$$ off!

[mission vending]

I'm more worried about keeping things cool instead of hot.

Seriously though the inverter off your battery is not a good idea, been there done that with a 3K inverter to run a freezer. Like dogcow said a couple of marine batteries will do the trick, thats what I use to run my freezer.

What about using a small generator on the ground to run a space heater in the truck? They will usually run 8-10 hours

I'm more worried about keeping things cool instead of hot.

Seriously though the inverter off your battery is not a good idea, been there done that with a 3K inverter to run a freezer. Like dogcow said a couple of marine batteries will do the trick, thats what I use to run my freezer.

What about using a small generator on the ground to run a space heater in the truck? They will usually run 8-10 hours

It won't help during the day but at least you won't have unload and reload every day.

[AngryChris]

I was going to mention a generator but I figured it wasn't worth the expense to buy a generator and/or if it's not in a safe place, it could be stolen.

I have to say though... what I DON'T understand is that you are concerned about the wear and tear on your motor but you don't see the big deal with the potential fire hazard that a kerosene heater can pose to your entire truck .

Anyway.... I know it's a laborious activity to unload product but I did mention that I ran a route worth 10,000/week BECAUSE... I doubt you are very close to 10k/week and I unloaded it daily because it was the best thing to do.

I think the best solution here is really to find a garage that you can park your vehicle inside of... then you can really use practically any type of heater and keep your product in good shape.

[mission vending]

I was going to mention a generator but I figured it wasn't worth the expense to buy a generator and/or if it's not in a safe place, it could be stolen.

Good point, depending on the type of vehicle you could mount it in a cage under the box. I've seen some of the local roach coaches do this instead of mounting it on the bumper. Can probably get a used one for less than 500.

[djkeller3]

I was going to mention a generator but I figured it wasn't worth the expense to buy a generator and/or if it's not in a safe place, it could be stolen.

I have to say though... what I DON'T understand is that you are concerned about the wear and tear on your motor but you don't see the big deal with the potential fire hazard that a kerosene heater can pose to your entire truck .

Anyway.... I know it's a laborious activity to unload product but I did mention that I ran a route worth 10,000/week BECAUSE... I doubt you are very close to 10k/week and I unloaded it daily because it was the best thing to do.

I think the best solution here is really to find a garage that you can park your vehicle inside of... then you can really use practically any type of heater and keep your product in good shape.

Sure, I'd rather park my truck in a garage, and I'd like to have electricity in my storage unit; however, both are a negative and aren't logistically feasible.

When I was younger, I used to heat my home with a couple of kerosene heaters. Never a problem. As for my truck, I'm not stupid enough to keep one lit while driving or when I am otherwise not on the back of the truck. It seems like the greater risk would be propane, not kerosene.

I'll look into the generator idea and maybe use the kerosene heater in the storage unit on the really cold days.

Thanks for the ideas!

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[treadmill]

I don't know what of box you have but I drive for a living and have a 12' box on a chevy cutaway with entry to cab. I sleep in the box. I have a Espar heater (B-4 model) with a marine battery and isolated switch. This is run on gas or diesel and tied right into the tank. Total cost for everything with installation $3300. I use this every night I sleep in my truck during the cold months. Running nightly the marine battery is good for 24 hrs. and charges up while you are driving. The heater only uses about a gallon every 8 hrs depending on what temp you set it at. The unit will pay for itself by the end of the first year. Any more info just pm me.

[snack dude]

Good point, depending on the type of vehicle you could mount it in a cage under the box. I've seen some of the local roach coaches do this instead of mounting it on the bumper. Can probably get a used one for less than 500.

I live in northern Kentucky right across the river from that other state north of us. I park my truck in my driveway and use an electric heater. If it gets real cold I will unload into my garage. around here below 20 degrees for long periods are rare so the heater works most of the time. As far as working in the back when its cold all I can say is dress better. I have noticed that the little bit of heat that comes off the exhaust and axle from driving will actually raise the temp in the box. The good news is the pops are already cold when you put them in the machine and your candy bars and pastries wont melt either. Remember it just has to be warm enough to not freeze.

It seems to me that the cost of driving your truck home so you have access to electric for the few days that it can get frigid would be cheaper and less hazardous than investing in all the other options. What are we talking about two or three gallons of gas or $10.00 a night.

I spent a winter in the mid 70s in Minot North Dakota, It doesnt get cold in Kentucky

Just my .02

[AngryChris]

I live in northern Kentucky right across the river from that other state north of us. I park my truck in my driveway and use an electric heater. If it gets real cold I will unload into my garage. around here below 20 degrees for long periods are rare so the heater works most of the time. As far as working in the back when its cold all I can say is dress better. I have noticed that the little bit of heat that comes off the exhaust and axle from driving will actually raise the temp in the box. The good news is the pops are already cold when you put them in the machine and your candy bars and pastries wont melt either. Remember it just has to be warm enough to not freeze.

It seems to me that the cost of driving your truck home so you have access to electric for the few days that it can get frigid would be cheaper and less hazardous than investing in all the other options. What are we talking about two or three gallons of gas or $10.00 a night.

I spent a winter in the mid 70s in Minot North Dakota, It doesnt get cold in Kentucky

Just my .02

I agree but he doesn't want to unload his product . I live in Dayton so my weather shouldn't be too much different from yours and I've been there and I also think that the electric heater + unloading product when it gets FRIGID is the best way to do it.... it sucks and your hands freeze badly but hey... it's better than losing $100+ in frozen product in a single day due to overnight single-digit temps.

Ever thought about paying some kid $20 to unload your product? I'm sure it could be done in 30 minutes and it would be worth his time and your money.

[snack dude]

I agree but he doesn't want to unload his product . I live in Dayton so my weather shouldn't be too much different from yours and I've been there and I also think that the electric heater + unloading product when it gets FRIGID is the best way to do it.... it sucks and your hands freeze badly but hey... it's better than losing $100+ in frozen product in a single day due to overnight single-digit temps.

Ever thought about paying some kid $20 to unload your product? I'm sure it could be done in 30 minutes and it would be worth his time and your money.

We are in total agreement. As far as unloading product thats what I had kids for until they grew up and left home

[djkeller3]

I agree but he doesn't want to unload his product . I live in Dayton so my weather shouldn't be too much different from yours and I've been there and I also think that the electric heater + unloading product when it gets FRIGID is the best way to do it.... it sucks and your hands freeze badly but hey... it's better than losing $100+ in frozen product in a single day due to overnight single-digit temps.

Ever thought about paying some kid $20 to unload your product? I'm sure it could be done in 30 minutes and it would be worth his time and your money.

To clarify... before moving to where I live currently, I parked my truck at home and ran an electric heater via extension cord and that worked out great. I didn't do that last year because of the drive distance; rather, I unloaded the diet soda to my storage unit where I park my truck, and that also worked well. I only kept a day's worth of diet soda on the truck at a time to help minimize the unloading. Some of the regular soda froze, but it was negligible.

Now, some people here erroneously think that it does not get cold in Kentucky. I guess that depends on your definition of cold. My definition of cold is when it gets cold enough in my box truck that diet soda (and sometimes regular soda) freezes and explodes DURING THE DAY from just opening and closing my roll-top door. I don't care if you live in Alaska, that is cold by any definition. While it doesn't stay that cold all the time, we do get periods that can range from a day or two to a week or more - multiple times - where temperatures stay in single digits or teens all day. I can keep soda from freezing at night when it gets that cold, but during the day it freezes and it seems there is nothing I can do to prevent it when I'm running the route. My OP was really directed at this problem, plus, it's just a pain to work in temperatures that cold all day long. Maybe my tolerance for it is wearing thin, I don't know, whatever. I'm just tired of losing product during the day and freezing my a$ off at the same time.

Edit: The floor in my truck is a wood deck. It does not conduct heat the same way metal floors do; consequently, heat generated from the exhaust and drive-train does not transfer through. When I track snow into the back end, it stays until I sweep it out.

[AngryChris]

I'm not exactly sure if anyone here thought it doesn't get that cold in Kentucky... I was just pointing out that I live further north than you and I have to, in theory, deal with more frigid weather than you do because I live north of you... and letting you know that the best way I have ever found to deal with the situation is to load and unload the product... however... I have some pointers for you regarding your soda freezing while you are on the truck...

Firstly, it's great that you mentioned your floor not being metal as you do not want your soda to touch anything metal as this will cause the soda to freeze faster.... try putting some insulating barriers such as cardboard between any cold walls of the truck.

Also, put the diet soda higher up than the regular soda... as it should be warmer near the top of the box versus the bottom... this may help...

Finally... there's about one solution that I can think of left.. and it is by far the most redneck/hillbilly solution I can think of, and you may appreciate that being a kentuckian ( JK.. or should i be? )... you may consider getting a heated blanket. It may not sound like much and it's certainly not going to heat up your truck if at all but at least you could keep your product on top of that (and probably a sheet of cardboard over the blanket too so you don't damage the electrical wiring due to the weight of the soda) which will, in turn, keep your soda just warm enough to keep it from freezing throughout the day... this should not draw a lot from your inverter but in all honesty, unless you really are fond of the kerosene heater situation, there's not much you can do.... plus, when you open that roll-up door, so much of that heat is lost anyway...

I'm just telling you that I have never seen/heard of a better and safer way than unloading product but maybe there is one and good luck in finding it... just keep your product away from freezing surfaces because... if you haven't noticed.... the soda that freezes first is the soda that is closest to the coldest surfaces... cardboard does wonders for this problem btw.

[treadmill]

I see nobody has considered my solution. Even though it is somewhat on the pricey side you can use this heater all day while you are working. Yes it does use fuel from your vehicle to run this setup but it will pay for itself the first winter you use it.

[djkeller3]

I see nobody has considered my solution. Even though it is somewhat on the pricey side you can use this heater all day while you are working. Yes it does use fuel from your vehicle to run this setup but it will pay for itself the first winter you use it.

I thought about it, but I just don't have that kind of money to put into it. It sounds like a great solution, and I'm glad it's working well for you.

I see nobody has considered my solution. Even though it is somewhat on the pricey side you can use this heater all day while you are working. Yes it does use fuel from your vehicle to run this setup but it will pay for itself the first winter you use it.

I thought about it, but I just don't have that kind of money to put into it. It sounds like a great solution, and I'm glad it's working well for you.

[falls]

My definition of cold is when it gets cold enough in my box truck that diet soda (and sometimes regular soda) freezes and explodes DURING THE DAY from just opening and closing my roll-top door. I don't care if you live in Alaska, that is cold by any definition. While it doesn't stay that cold all the time, we do get periods that can range from a day or two to a week or more - multiple times - where temperatures stay in single digits or teens all day. I can keep soda from freezing at night when it gets that cold, but during the day it freezes and it seems there is nothing I can do to prevent it when I'm running the route. My OP was really directed at this problem, plus, it's just a pain to work in temperatures that cold all day long. Maybe my tolerance for it is wearing thin, I don't know, whatever. I'm just tired of losing product during the day and freezing my a$ off at the same time.

Edit: The floor in my truck is a wood deck. It does not conduct heat the same way metal floors do; consequently, heat generated from the exhaust and drive-train does not transfer through. When I track snow into the back end, it stays until I sweep it out.

OK

I have a solution that has been used in cars from the 1900's through about the 1950's, but isn't commonly thought of these days. Use the heat from the exhaust.

Many vintage cars had heater panels/vents in the floor which were directly linked to the exhaust pipe/muffler physically and used conduction to heat the panel. Those that had vents were usually slide open type to allow air to flow over the heated panel when in use, and slide closed when not in use.

I have an oddball car from the 50's (goggomobil) that (in Germany) had a blower fan that piped air via a heat exchanger off the exaust manifold. Basically a tube encases the manifold which has air blown through it to heat the passenger compartment.

If you are handy you could probably make a unit which will work for you. Either a conductive attachment to a metal floor panel, or a 12V blower fan pushing fresh (or recycled) air through a sealed tube encasing a section of exhaust or the muffler.

Just make sure the section of pipe/muffler does not have any leaks to prevent CO/CO2 being pumped into the compartment.

To help minimise heat loss you could line the side walls of the truck with styrofoam panels (sold in hardware stores for underfloor insulation, or sometimes with a reflective foil lining for use in walls) - you can sometimes get this free as it's used as a packing material and cold food transport box.

[bcron]

"I live in Dayton so my weather shouldn't be too much different from your"

Hey AngryChris...good to see another Daytonian on here.

DJ: Does your storage unit have a light bulb in the cieling? If so, there are light bulb adapters that can be screwed in that can still accept a bulb and have an outlet on the side for an extension cord. I know a lot of units don't have them, but if yours does, may be a source of electricity for just the coldest periods with a small space heater in the truck to keep the chill down without raising too many eyebrows with the landlord???

[djkeller3]

"I live in Dayton so my weather shouldn't be too much different from your"

Hey AngryChris...good to see another Daytonian on here.

DJ: Does your storage unit have a light bulb in the cieling? If so, there are light bulb adapters that can be screwed in that can still accept a bulb and have an outlet on the side for an extension cord. I know a lot of units don't have them, but if yours does, may be a source of electricity for just the coldest periods with a small space heater in the truck to keep the chill down without raising too many eyebrows with the landlord???

That's a great idea. I wish there was a live light socket, but there's nothing at all. I don't mind all that much loading and unloading (to avoid freezing), but during the day on the truck can freeze and explode soda if it gets cold enough. Even regular soda if several days are involved. Maybe we'll have a warmer winter this year!

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OK

I have a solution that has been used in cars from the 1900's through about the 1950's, but isn't commonly thought of these days. Use the heat from the exhaust.

Many vintage cars had heater panels/vents in the floor which were directly linked to the exhaust pipe/muffler physically and used conduction to heat the panel. Those that had vents were usually slide open type to allow air to flow over the heated panel when in use, and slide closed when not in use.

I have an oddball car from the 50's (goggomobil) that (in Germany) had a blower fan that piped air via a heat exchanger off the exaust manifold. Basically a tube encases the manifold which has air blown through it to heat the passenger compartment.

If you are handy you could probably make a unit which will work for you. Either a conductive attachment to a metal floor panel, or a 12V blower fan pushing fresh (or recycled) air through a sealed tube encasing a section of exhaust or the muffler.

Just make sure the section of pipe/muffler does not have any leaks to prevent CO/CO2 being pumped into the compartment.

To help minimise heat loss you could line the side walls of the truck with styrofoam panels (sold in hardware stores for underfloor insulation, or sometimes with a reflective foil lining for use in walls) - you can sometimes get this free as it's used as a packing material and cold food transport box.

I like this idea. It would take a lot of work, but would be worth it when done. I may just attempt it and work on it little by little. I have a mechanic who is handy with this sort of thing and he would be glad to help.

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[EddieMac]

Well, I guess we've had our three days of winter here in Florida.

It's hot again.

Any ideas on keeping the back of the truck cool?

I hate going into my locations all hot and sweaty after pulling an order.

I run a fan from an inverter, but I have to keep the truck running for that ... which is okay, because I lock the doors and keep the AC on in the cab.

However, on those hot days (most days in Florida are those hot days) the fan just doesn't do much.

What else can I do? (inexpensively)

Thanks yall, and have a great day.

[AngryChris]

Well, I guess we've had our three days of winter here in Florida.

It's hot again.

Any ideas on keeping the back of the truck cool?

I hate going into my locations all hot and sweaty after pulling an order.

I run a fan from an inverter, but I have to keep the truck running for that ... which is okay, because I lock the doors and keep the AC on in the cab.

However, on those hot days (most days in Florida are those hot days) the fan just doesn't do much.

What else can I do? (inexpensively)

Thanks yall, and have a great day.

You can increase the performance of your 2/70 AC by driving faster.

I really wish there was a better way, I didn't even have AC....

[DrP]

That's a great idea. I wish there was a live light socket, but there's nothing at all. I don't mind all that much loading and unloading (to avoid freezing), but during the day on the truck can freeze and explode soda if it gets cold enough. Even regular soda if several days are involved. Maybe we'll have a warmer winter this year!

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I like this idea. It would take a lot of work, but would be worth it when done. I may just attempt it and work on it little by little. I have a mechanic who is handy with this sort of thing and he would be glad to help.

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Another option would be to tap into radiator, run hoses to back , to a salvaged raditor with a 12 volt fan. Cost under $100.