Drilling out lock with the key still in it

[loach33]

So, I was preoccupied with the drink machine having problems and I went to open the snack machine.  Put the key in, it turned a quarter inch and then was stuck.  No left, no right, wouldn't budge.  Pliers, a couple taps with a hammer, nothing.  It's in there for good.

 

So, I guess drilling it out is the only option.  Question is - do you think I'll have any problems doing that with the key still in there?  Any tricks?

 

 

[moondog]

So, I was preoccupied with the drink machine having problems and I went to open the snack machine.  Put the key in, it turned a quarter inch and then was stuck.  No left, no right, wouldn't budge.  Pliers, a couple taps with a hammer, nothing.  It's in there for good.

 

So, I guess drilling it out is the only option.  Question is - do you think I'll have any problems doing that with the key still in there?  Any tricks?

I'd say you'll have beaucoup problems if you can't get that key out.  I've never done this, but I'm told that you can drill an angled hole in the T handle itself aimed at the lock catch.  Obviously this will require some guess work and a new T handle.  Not pretty.

[loach33]

I may have to get seriously rough with getting the key out.  Didn't try locking pliers yet.  Not sure there's enough of the key left though to grab onto.  The "handle" part of the key I twisted off with trying to work it out.  

 

I wonder if trying to hammer the key into the lock would bust it out

[Golfdogs]

I'd probably soak it with silicone and wait a bit to see if I could get it to budge. What machine/handle type?

[AngryChris]

Oh wow. You've probably already made it worse. Most of us have our key jiggle techniques. I'd try jiggling and tugging the hell out of that lock. The jiggle + tugging usually gets keys out, then it's time for a new barrel.

[loach33]

Oh wow. You've probably already made it worse. Most of us have our key jiggle techniques. I'd try jiggling and tugging the hell out of that lock. The jiggle + tugging usually gets keys out, then it's time for a new barrel.

Yeah, jiggling, twisting, pulling for 20 minutes didn't do anything.  It's a snack machine....usi 4 wide....t handle.   Just a cheapo lock I presume so I wouldn't think it would be too too hard to mash the hell out of it without damaging the handle.  Was hoping to avoid replacing the handle as well.

[AZVendor]

With the key imbedded in the lock cylinder your drill bit may not grip correctly and you could end up damaging the T-handle anyway.  Quick and dirty is to drill through the T-handle outside of the lock cylinder area and on the side of the handle that the lock bolt would be sticking up from.  Your aim is to drill off that bolt but you also have to drill into the surface of the flange to remove material that the bolt is impeded by.  This will ruin the T-handle and flange but it usually quicker than fighting a broken key.

[mission vending]

With the key imbedded in the lock cylinder your drill bit may not grip correctly and you could end up damaging the T-handle anyway.  Quick and dirty is to drill through the T-handle outside of the lock cylinder area and on the side of the handle that the lock bolt would be sticking up from.  Your aim is to drill off that bolt but you also have to drill into the surface of the flange to remove material that the bolt is impeded by.  This will ruin the T-handle and flange but it usually quicker than fighting a broken key.

 

 

That's what I had to do with one of my Medeco locks a few weeks ago. Some rocket scientist at the location thought that he could pick the lock with a paper clip and part of it broke off in the key hole preventing the insertion of the key.

[AngryChris]

I almost got my key stuck in two barrels. I recommend never being rough with keys or locks. If they are problematic, replace.

[loach33]

With the key imbedded in the lock cylinder your drill bit may not grip correctly and you could end up damaging the T-handle anyway.  Quick and dirty is to drill through the T-handle outside of the lock cylinder area and on the side of the handle that the lock bolt would be sticking up from.  Your aim is to drill off that bolt but you also have to drill into the surface of the flange to remove material that the bolt is impeded by.  This will ruin the T-handle and flange but it usually quicker than fighting a broken key.

Trying to picture this.  The lock and the key are in the middle of rectangle portion and deeper than the outside of the handle.  So, when you say to drill through the t handle outside of the lock cylinder....does that mean to drill inside that deeper rectangle area?  you're not talking about the outer portion of the handle where your hand goes when turning the handle, right?  

And as for the "side of the handle that the lock bolt would be sticking up from.  The lock bolt?  

 

The bottom of the lock where there is that little notch is exposed.  The key, with the extended piece that fits in that notch is turned to the left right now.  So, I could see getting a drill bit underneath the key and into that notch enough to get a grip.  Of course the angle will be up into the key when drilling.

 

Last thing in an all in one post.  The T-handle.  I found the part number for a replacement.  Well its $36 through vendnet without shipping. Ugh.  I see others out there, but of course it has to fit.  What do you think.  Bite the bullet  or will most handles work for most machines.

 

The current handle is the one where you turn and turn and turn to open.  Not the 1/4 turn kind.  This is an HR32 machine 

[AZVendor]

In any case, you want to drill toward the lock's spring loaded bolt.  The location of it will be either up or down and the location of the keyway notch, if down now, is the side of the T-handle that your spring bolt is now on.  If you can drill through the lock without the key causing your bit to dig into the T-handle then you want to drill to the imaginary point where the lock casing and the bolt meet.  Cut the bolt off there and your T-handle will pop out.  If successful, you may be able to avoid replacing your T-handle.  The T-handle is universal except that yours is black and most replacements are chrome.  If you want a black one then it will need to come from USI where you will probably have to buy the entire assembly of handle and flange.

[ANDERSONVENDING]

drill where the ear on the key is and pull out the key then drill out the lock.

John

[loach33]

drill where the ear on the key is and pull out the key then drill out the lock.

John

Bingo.   I was able to knock off that little ear on the key with the drill bit and removed the key.  But the lock was still turned to the left so my regular key wouldn't go in.   So, it's either drill out the lock or.......

 

I filed off the ear on the correct key.  Inserted it as normal and voila....the lock turned.

 

I'll still change the lock because of course it's a bit beat up.  I didn't do too much to the t-handle....a few cosmetic dings where the drill slipped.

 

P.S.   DId you know that the key without the ear on it will still open up locks as normal?  Surprised me.  I tried that key in a different machine and it worked.

[AZVendor]

Yes, the keys will work without the *** on them.  The *** is only used to ensure the key can't be removed without the lock in it's home position.  There are times when a key will pull out of a lock even when it's not in the home position.  This can be due to a worn key or a worn lock.  I have also seen locks that were picked by a thief and left in the off-home position.  In those cases the *** can be filed off the key and the key will still work as long as you make sure the lock is back in it's home position before you pull the key out.  If you ever needed to do that with a key it's best to have a good spare key that you can put in service so the filed-off key can be made the spare.  That would reduce the likelihood that any locks are accidentally left off of home.