ondeckdean Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 I'm not sure exactly what that means. Do you mean unplug the plug that plugs into the board or...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 What I mean is what I referenced in post #19. You have a bill acceptor on this machine but the machine was never built with one. This means you have an interface kit of some kind allowing the credit from the bill acceptor to get to the logic board. If the kit has a problem then your machine will have a problem. Therefore you need to disconnect the bill acceptor kit from the machine wherever that is so that you can test the machine with ONLY the coin mech connected to it. If it still acts up then you need to replace the board. Thinking back though, I don't remember if you replaced the coin mech yet so that would be the first thing to try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 I have tried different coin mechs with the same result. So you must mean unplugging something from the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 I have tried different coin mechs with the same result. So you must mean unplugging something from the board. The kit he is referring to is a box that has its own electronics and should be mounted in the machine somewhere. This box will have some wires going all the way to you bill accepter and all the way to the board. You might have to trace the wires from the bill accepter to see where the box is... And then trace the wires from the box to the board. Once you find out where it's plugged in, simply power down the machine, disconnect the kit, and turn the machine back on. Now you have bypassed the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 What I mean is what I referenced in post #19. You have a bill acceptor on this machine but the machine was never built with one. This means you have an interface kit of some kind allowing the credit from the bill acceptor to get to the logic board. If the kit has a problem then your machine will have a problem. Therefore you need to disconnect the bill acceptor kit from the machine wherever that is so that you can test the machine with ONLY the coin mech connected to it. If it still acts up then you need to replace the board. Thinking back though, I don't remember if you replaced the coin mech yet so that would be the first thing to try. What size is the board (physically)? If the board doesn't work, will you refund me upon returning it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 The logic board in the machine is about 14" long and is mounted in the door. The validator interface kit is somewhere in the machine either piggybacked onto your logic board or located on the sliding gum/mint panel. Did you find it and unplug it so that only the coin mech is working? Did that change anything? Once a board is sent there's no refunds for it as anything in your machine, near the machine, a bad power cord, dirty power, etc. can jack up the new board and I would have no control over that. There's no one in the business that refunds for boards sent to a customer because we have no control over what happens to it once the customer gets it. If you're going to replace the board then you should first pull yours out of the door so you can learn how difficult it that is, especially with the AP4000 boards but also so you might find if there is a stray coin shorting it out behind the board. Stray coins often get caught in and behind these boards because the outer door coin chute doesn't always match up with the cabinet coin chute when the door is closed. These loose coins can sometimes cause a temporary problem or, more often, a permanent failure due to a short circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted June 17, 2015 Author Share Posted June 17, 2015 Here are a couple more videos that may covey something that I may not have been able to: https://www.facebook.com/dean.pierce.77/videos/784674151646918/?ref=notif¬if_t=video_processed https://www.facebook.com/dean.pierce.77/videos/784673578313642/?ref=notif¬if_t=video_processed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 I watched the two videos and the first thing I can tell you is that you have an APINT board used for the validator interface. You should also never move the board around like you are when wiggling it as that can loosen the soldered pins on the main board. The APINT is plugged onto connections of the main board that the two long white connectors (plugged into the APINT board now) would have originally been plugged into. I saw the coins randomly paid out and this still sounds like a main board issue. What you should do next is actually remove the APINT board from the main board, but that is very tricky because the pins are very tight. You will actually have to remove the main board from the door in order to carefully and gradually pry the APINT board off the main board using a small flat blade screw driver. Make sure you ground yourself to the cabinet to avoid damaging the board with stray static electricity. When you remove the main board from the door pay close attention to whether any loose coins fall from behind the board as any coins there can short the board out and be the source of your problem. If nothing falls out then reinstall the main board without the APINT board on it and plug in all connectors naturally as they were from the factory. Power up the machine and see if the flickering Operate light goes steady or if it continues to flicker. If it's steady then you have a bad APINT board. If it still flickers then it's either a bad coin mech or a bad logic board. After all this time I don't remember if you tried another coin mech or not. I'll remind you that you don't want to use a coin mech with a metal backing plate. Let me know the results of this. PS: Get that loose light bulb out of the door before you break it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris1953 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 On the bottom of the main board where the power comes in you need (sorry don't know the name anymore) the small board about 1 1/2 inches square. This protects the main board from a faulty coin mech. Without that board the coin mech can and will short out the main board if it has a fault or shorted coin mech. Never replace the main board without replacing it with a known good coin mech. These ap 4000 have always been problematic with dirty electricity. Check your ground on outlet and cord. Replace coin mech with a known good one. Then go to bestbuy and get you a cheap battery back up and wire it in, The backup will clean up the power and also keep it running when there are power surges. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Opinions on Antares 3 in 1 Deli machine?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Not advisable as they are imports and not reliable. Parts may be available from Seaga but most are super expensive. Tech support is a joke as well. They are also difficult to program and the manual is very cryptic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsd Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Opinions on Antares 3 in 1 Deli machine??We scrap those for fun after a long day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 I did plug the white plugs back into the board after removing the small board and it reacted the same way by spitting out a quarter. So generous. https://video-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hvideo-xap1/v/t42.1790-2/11643799_793411917439808_1182653445_n.mp4?efg=eyJybHIiOjY4OSwicmxhIjo1MTJ9&rl=689&vabr=383&oh=489383cb86a27c80855d0859a7b804e2&oe=55960022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Your Facebook video doesn't work. Do you want a new board sent out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted July 3, 2015 Author Share Posted July 3, 2015 https://www.facebook.com/dean.pierce.77/videos/793410017439998/?pnref=story Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share Posted August 29, 2015 Patience is a virtue. I was rewarded by replacing my Snackshop with a National 147 and spent $50 and it works. I could not justify spending $150 for a board when I don't even know if that is what's wrong with it diagnostically. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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