ondeckdean Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 As a single snack machine owner, I have been very lucky to have been free from issues for several years until today. My machine started to beep and then kick out coins. The amount was not consistent but the spitting out coins was TOO CONSISTENT! The switch that allows price setting and other service options by being in the closed position was doing things I've never seen it do in the time I've owned it. The light would go from bright to dim to out. Tried turning it off and on (computer generation). That didn't work. Tried to go into the service menus to no avail. The display at one point read 777. Unfortunately, I was not in Vegas for that! Anybody have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted January 13, 2015 Share Posted January 13, 2015 Those issues could be caused by several things. The first is that your light bulb in the door is flickering or bad or another light close to the machine is bad and flickering. The second is that a coin might have fallen behind the logic board or is caught in the various harnesses in front of the board. The third might be a bad mode box or logic board. The fourth could be a bad ground in the machine, no ground pin on the wall plug, dirty power to the machine, etc. The fifth could be a bad coin mech. If not the light bulb then my money is on a loose coin that is contacting the logic board. The coins can fall from the coin chute if the door is not secured and latched on both top and bottom latches. Turn the machine off before looking for a loose coin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I'm pretty sure a coin passed thru the area but is not hung up. Is there a way to reset it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I had an issue like this with an AP 4000 as well. I changed the coin mech but had the same problem. Changed out the board and the problem went away. I never found a coin behind it though. I also recently had a problem with what I think was a USI 2098. This machine was jackpotting randomly (especially after a purchase). It had a Coinco 9342-L which I am not familiar with.. so I didn't know what coin mechs were compatible with it aside from the fact that it seemed to be a 12-pin 24-volt mech. I ended up just swapping it out for an AP-6000 that just came off location and I simply took the coin mech out of the USI and let the people that work there scrap it. They said it was one heavy mother! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I'm pretty sure a coin passed thru the area but is not hung up. Is there a way to reset it? There isn't any resetting of the 4600 boards. If yours is still not working then it needs to be replaced. You can PM me for a replacement if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris1953 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Light bulbs, light bulbs, light bulbs. Did I say light bulbs? Also be careful with the coin mechs. Make sure the replacement coin mech is good. If you plug a shorted mech in it can and will blow the diodes on the board. Where the power plugs in on the board (bottom right on board) there was a update for a filter. It is a small 1 1/2" square board with varistors on it. That protects the main board from being damaged if changer is shorted. If its not there then be careful with the coin mechs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 It made it 2 months and we are right back where it started. I have a TRC6000 in it working (I mean paired) with a VN2501 (I think). The cord on it is very brittle and I suspect the best option would be to replace the cord based on the likelihood that the grounding is a problem since some of the jacket on the cord has come off. How difficult is it to replace a cord? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvending Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 It is not a difficult task if you are the least bit able to use tOols. I begin by buying a 12ft. Extension cord with a flat plug (14/3 gaage wire). In the lower left inside bottom of machine there are 2 screws that hold a plate to the floor that hold your cord stay. Loose the 2 screws and slightly twist and lift the plate from the floor. Then you can pull the old cord through the base of the machine. Remove the cord lock and cut the old cord off. Then strip back the 3 wires about 3/8 inch. Crimp butt splices onto cold end of cord the goes to power box. Then cut the female end off the new cord. Feed male end through the base of machine, feed cut end back through the removed plate, and end then strip back the insulation from wire end. Give yourself some room the work. But splice the wire together and replace the cord lock through the lower plate to hold cord. Replace the place and tighten screws. Less than 10 min job once you have the new cord. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 It is not a difficult task if you are the least bit able to use tOols. I begin by buying a 12ft. Extension cord with a flat plug (14/3 gaage wire). In the lower left inside bottom of machine there are 2 screws that hold a plate to the floor that hold your cord stay. Loose the 2 screws and slightly twist and lift the plate from the floor. Then you can pull the old cord through the base of the machine. Remove the cord lock and cut the old cord off. Then strip back the 3 wires about 3/8 inch. Crimp butt splices onto cold end of cord the goes to power box. Then cut the female end off the new cord. Feed male end through the base of machine, feed cut end back through the removed plate, and end then strip back the insulation from wire end. Give yourself some room the work. But splice the wire together and replace the cord lock through the lower plate to hold cord. Replace the place and tighten screws. Less than 10 min job once you have the new cord. If I'm going to be splicing, I assume matching colors is part of the equation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 If I'm going to be splicing, I assume matching colors is part of the equation? You shouldn't have to splice anything - all you are doing is replacing a frayed cord. Connect it exactly like the old cord came out which should be black to black, white to white and green (ground) to green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvending Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Correct Moondog, but you need to splice the new cord to the moles plug at machine end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsd Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 It is not a difficult task if you are the least bit able to use tOols. I begin by buying a 12ft. Extension cord with a flat plug (14/3 gaage wire). In the lower left inside bottom of machine there are 2 screws that hold a plate to the floor that hold your cord stay. Loose the 2 screws and slightly twist and lift the plate from the floor. Then you can pull the old cord through the base of the machine. Remove the cord lock and cut the old cord off. Then strip back the 3 wires about 3/8 inch. Crimp butt splices onto cold end of cord the goes to power box. Then cut the female end off the new cord. Feed male end through the base of machine, feed cut end back through the removed plate, and end then strip back the insulation from wire end. Give yourself some room the work. But splice the wire together and replace the cord lock through the lower plate to hold cord. Replace the place and tighten screws. Less than 10 min job once you have the new cord. And get the good 3 wire ones with ground, not the cheapo 2 wire ones at dollar general Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Correct Moondog, but you need to splice the new cord to the moles plug at machine end. Frankly, I'd hard wire it - never had much faith in those Molex plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 Here is a little video I took with the coin mech out of the little board. Amy insight from this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=740308832750117&set=vb.100003130227718&type=2&theater¬if_t=video_processed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The machine will not operate properly without a coin mech. It causes the validator to flash the "Disconnected from VMC" message and causes the flashing from the Operate button. The machine always has to have a good working mech installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 I wanted to post a new video in hopes that it might help to diagnose what's wrong and what can be done to fix her up. https://www.facebook.com/dean.pierce.77/videos/vb.100003130227718/753032648144402/?type=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 The first thing I would guess is that you have a short or a bad board. Maybe the battery is dead but that would still require you to get the board fixed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I think that will come down to a bad logic board. However you will have a validator interface kit somewhere in the machine (since these machines were never built with validators) so you should disconnect that kit completely from the machine first to see if this issue happens with it not in the picture. Basically you will try the machine with only a coin mech, as it was built, to determine if the validator kit is the cause. Be sure to disconnect the kit and not just the validator. If the kit isn't the cause then you need a new logic board. PM me if you need one sent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 How much would it be to purchase a replacement board if that's the fix? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 149 plus shipping. Send me a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 I can't justify spending that when I can get a replacement machine and move into a newer generation for just a little more than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orsd Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 congadualtions you have a parts machine, you wont need motors spirals or the like again for along time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ondeckdean Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 149 plus shipping. Send me a PM. What happens if I get the board from you and that doesn't fix the problem? What type of board would you be sending me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 I can send you a replacement AP4600 logic board. Did you unplug the validator interface to see if that was the root cause? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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