temp04 Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I have a ba32sa bill validator that is having trouble taking bill. I have a bas32sab available. can I replace ba32sa with a ba32sab or a magpro? what are differences between them? Please help. Thank you!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mission vending Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 I have a ba32sa bill validator that is having trouble taking bill. I have a bas32sab available. can I replace ba32sa with a ba32sab I believe yes, you can switch them out. Just double check that the voltage requirements are the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc vending Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Magpro is more advanced than the ba32sa. I have switched several ba32sa to magpro very happy with the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryChris Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 If the voltage is the same, the masks are the same, and the plugs fit properly, it should work fine. If you had a pulse validator instead of a serial validator, the plugs won't fit anyway. If you are using any of these validators with an MDB harness for an MDB machine, you can use any ba3x series validator as far as I know, as long as the mask fits. Voltage apparently doesn't matter when you use an MDB harness on the coincos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
temp04 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Thank you all for helping me out. I think I understand a little. So can I use a Magpro 50B for it as long as I used mdb harness and change the mask? Does it mean that if I use MDB harness, I don't need to connect power plug? Does MDB supplies power to the unit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 Depending on the machine, the two validators are interchangeable. The BA series is a little older than the Mag series but both are very reliable. Here are the designations in the model numbers: BA or Mag: Series 30: 30 = 110V will have a single price harness connector in control box, and may also have a MDB connector on bottom of the control box. 32: 32 = 24V will have a MDB connector and VFM style connectors (9 pin for power, 30 pin under the control box for communications) 50: 50 = 110V will have a single price harness connector and a MDB connector. 52: 52 = 24V and will have a MDB connector and VFM style connectors. B: Bottler mask with large snout. Puts validator right up against the door. SA: Snack mask like a VFM. Spaces the validator away from the door to clear a credit display. You can mix and match the masks, but the model of validator has to be correct for your machine in voltage and connectors. The thing that may confuse you is that you will find MDB connectors on both 110V and 24V validators. Any MDB connector is good to use as MDB regardless of the validator's underlying voltage. MDB supplies power and communication in the same connection. You will have to determine which bezel your application requires. The bezels are interchangable between validators in the BA and Mag series only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
temp04 Posted April 21, 2013 Author Share Posted April 21, 2013 Thank you for such detail explanation. I really appreciate it. I have some more questions. It's kind of off topic a little. The reason for this post is that I have some problems with couple of bill validators that I have. 1. Mag50b - Sometimes it will take a bill but somehow doesn't stack it all the way. The bill gets all wrinkled and prevent the vending machine from taking anymore bill. 2. ba32sa - This validator really have a hard time feeding bills. sometimes it takes it but most of the times you can hear the motor running but just not taking the bill at all. I am getting both validator changed. I am planning to buy a belt kit for each one and try to replace them myself. Will this fix the problem? or is there any other parts that I need to replace? Thank in advnace for you help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZVendor Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 The only way to suspect a belt problem is if there is a visible problem such as threads starting to come off the edge of a belt or if you have worn or brittle drive rings (small circular tires) on the wheels in the lower section of the validator that pulls out to clear the bill path. Later validators or previously rebuilt validators have drive rings on the 4 wheels in the lower section rather than the early short belts that wrapped around 2 wheels on each side of the lower section. If you see the belts wrapped around these wheels then they should be replaced with new drive rings. If you have drive rings and notice they are dried out or cracked then they should be replaced. The drive rings can be a cause of not starting to take a bill in as can damage in the bill path before the drive rings or a problem with the front billpath sensors. Bills that don't get stacked properly can be bad stacker belts, a bad elevator assy. or a motor problem. I don't do cursory repairs to validators as they can be short lived repairs. I have Coinco's rebuilt by Coinco and Mars rebuilt by an authorized Mars repair depot to ensure that all possible issues are taken care of. The factory trained guys know what issues may come up whether you have noticed them or not, including specific hard parts changes and software upgrades. If a Coinco has never been rebuilt or not in it's first 4 years, then they get completely rebuilt. If they are newer than 4 years or have had a total rebuild already, then they get all the soft parts which are belts and software. This way I know they won't give my customer a premature failure and I don't have to eat a service call. One thing to keep in mind with Coinco belts: if you don't buy true Coinco belts from a Coinco source you may have problems. Secondary market belts have been around for a long time and are not always quality parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walta Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I think in the long run you will be better off. Doing what you do bests and using the money you earn to pay for a good rebuilt BA. Once you find a good rebuilder you will not be making will repeat trips. If you spend all day rebuilding BA you learn to all the tricks find think that look ok but are on the edge of failure. Let’s say your BA is down you order a set of belts from EBay for 17.00 spend 2 hours ordering, installing and testing this BA. What will you do if changing the belts doesn’t fix your BA. So you got 17.00 + 2 hours time and 7 days of down time that sounds like a lot more than the 95.00 my rebuilder charges for a exchange unit at his counter. Walta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc vending Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 I would find a good repair company. I use vender repair service out of orlando. They pick up and drop off parts. If I am in a hurry I do a swap send the bad part get a repaired one with my main parts supplier in about two days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
temp04 Posted April 21, 2013 Author Share Posted April 21, 2013 Thank you all for your advise!! How much should I expect for repair? anyone knows a good repair shop in L.A area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tc vending Posted April 21, 2013 Share Posted April 21, 2013 Its normally flat rate plus parts. I pay 40 dollars plus parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moondog Posted April 22, 2013 Share Posted April 22, 2013 Thank you all for your advise!! How much should I expect for repair? anyone knows a good repair shop in L.A area? I use Vending World in Rancho Cucamonga. You can trade in your broken unit for a refurbished equivalent. Check out their website for pricing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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